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Thread: Trip Coburg Or.To San Antonio Fl.

  1. #11
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    More proof that as our rallies get large enough we need to schedule converter specific seminars to teach owners the stuff that is not in the owner's manual.

    Ideally these would have the converters as seminar leaders, but if the converters do not want to participate our members who have had experiences with specific devices or systems could lead the seminars.

    This would be a case where the converters would get a free pass to show their coaches right Jim?

  2. #12
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    Hi Bruce. I had my steering wheel freeze up after stopping for 10 minutes to check in at a RV Park. It was the first or second night out after purchasing my coach. Best to leave engine running unless your turning off for the night. High idle. The freeze up only lasted a minute or so but it was challenging.
    Last edited by garyde; 03-27-2008 at 12:57 AM.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by garyde View Post
    Hi Bruce. I had my steering wheel freeze up after stopping for 10 minutes to check in at a RV Park. It was the first or second night out after purchasing my coach. Best to leave engine running unless your turning off for the night. High idle. The freeze up only lasted a minute or so but it was challenging.
    Hi Gary,

    I would characterize my noise as a slow speed tightness when turning, only when I have been running all day, and only at the end of the day, when coming off a ramp turning into a park. My low speed idle runs about 600 rpm's not sure if this is a correct idle. In the morning there is no problem whatsoever.

    I also wondered what role my fatigue might have played in hearing and feeling these noises. After 4 or 500 miles you start to hear noises. I found myself hearing noises when I am alone. It comes from flying by myself on long legs for business years ago. I would listen for unusual noises and if they were not there, I invented them. While driving through Alabama on this trip I had to pass at least a dozen mobile homes being delivered to there new owners. On one occasion there were three in a row, all huge double wides split in half. There was a large backup behind the convoy of mobile homes, mostly made up of motorhomes. I decided that I needed to pass, and went out in front, headed for the ruff side of the passing lane and stepped on the pedal, as I passed the second truck I thought that I had scraped the Zip Dee on the edge of the roof overhang. I of course had to look in the mirror, and convinced myself that the Zip Dee was bent. It of course was not, and in fact was just the wind from the plastic wrap on the mobile home fluttering in the wind as I passed close to it. I had to uphold the law that a Prevost's must lead the way when others stayed behind.

    I did have a small issue when I left an RV park. I normally put my foot on the brake, lightly, release the parking air brake then place the coach into drive, This morning for some reason I put my foot on the brake, placed the coach into drive then released the parking brake. For a full second or two the coach seemed locked in place unable to move, I even had to add power to get it unstuck. It was like I still had my parking brake on.

    I also noticed after a long leg, several hours that when i would pull into a truck stop the idle would be slightly erractic for a few minutes, hunting for idle. It would settle down after a few minutes.

  4. #14
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    If it feels like you parking brake is still on, even after you released it the chances are the pads or shoes are sticking to the drum or disk. This is not uncommon, especially if the humidity is high or you have been running in rain.

    Rather than try to overpower this condition, just go from drive to reverse. The slight backward motion when it drops into reverse is all it takes to release everything.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg View Post
    If it feels like you parking brake is still on, even after you released it the chances are the pads or shoes are sticking to the drum or disk. This is not uncommon, especially if the humidity is high or you have been running in rain.

    Rather than try to overpower this condition, just go from drive to reverse. The slight backward motion when it drops into reverse is all it takes to release everything.
    Thanks Jon, when are you planning the Prevost Conversion How to TV show. I think it would be a hit. It might be a limited audience but really nice group of people.

  6. #16
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    "If it feels like you parking brake is still on, even after you released it the chances are the pads or shoes are sticking to the drum or disk. This is not uncommon, especially if the humidity is high or you have been running in rain.

    Rather than try to overpower this condition, just go from drive to reverse. The slight backward motion when it drops into reverse is all it takes to release everything."

    Be VERY careful trying to overcome this situation by simply over-powering it. Liberty has advised me that they have seen axles break due to this.

    This can occur, as Jon has said, if the bus sits for a while after the brakes have become wet due to rain or excessive moisture.

    Liberty suggested that, should this occur, to engage and then dis-engage, the parking brake a couple of times, which should resolve the problem.

    Glad to hear that you had a successful journey. Your bus was one of the ones that we were considering before we bought ours, and I'm looking forward to seeing it in person some day!

  7. #17
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    Bruce, I'll bet every single owner, regardless of years of experience or type of coach can teach us all something. A lot of stuff that we know comes about because of an experience and how we dealt with it, usually self taught, often by accident.

    If someone wanted to make a real "owner's manual" all that would be necessary would be to comb through every post on this and the p-stuff site and catagorize the tips and instructions that have been posted.

    The brake release thing is nowhere in any manual or instruction that I have ever seen, but I'd bet almost every one of us has had that condition, and my way of dealing with it came about by chance many years ago and I have used that method ever since. I can think of hundreds of tips to give a new owner that will save a lot of time and embarassment. Little things like turn off the OTR air or generator or Cruise Airs temporarily when leaving a hard surfaced road onto a dry dusty dirt road. Or how about pull relay 76 in the rear if you do not want the brake lights to come on everytime the Jake or the retarder is engaged?

    How many of us learned the hard way to fire up the Webasto routinely to avoid problems with the nozzle? I still have not seen any Prevost or converter manuals advise to weight the bus and using the axle weights to get the correct tire pressures from the tire manufacturer pressure charts.

    Or how about release the parking brake on the toad before driving?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by phorner View Post
    "If it feels like you parking brake is still on, even after you released it the chances are the pads or shoes are sticking to the drum or disk. This is not uncommon, especially if the humidity is high or you have been running in rain.

    Rather than try to overpower this condition, just go from drive to reverse. The slight backward motion when it drops into reverse is all it takes to release everything."

    Be VERY careful trying to overcome this situation by simply over-powering it. Liberty has advised me that they have seen axles break due to this.

    This can occur, as Jon has said, if the bus sits for a while after the brakes have become wet due to rain or excessive moisture.

    Liberty suggested that, should this occur, to engage and then dis-engage, the parking brake a couple of times, which should resolve the problem.

    Glad to hear that you had a successful journey. Your bus was one of the ones that we were considering before we bought ours, and I'm looking forward to seeing it in person some day!
    Hi Paul,

    You probably rejected my bus because the brakes stick all the time. Thanks for the important advice. I new it didn't feel right, but never would have considered this situation one that could cause this type of potential damage. If you don't ask questions you will never get the answer.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg View Post
    Bruce, I'll bet every single owner, regardless of years of experience or type of coach can teach us all something. A lot of stuff that we know comes about because of an experience and how we dealt with it, usually self taught, often by accident.

    If someone wanted to make a real "owner's manual" all that would be necessary would be to comb through every post on this and the p-stuff site and catagorize the tips and instructions that have been posted.

    The brake release thing is nowhere in any manual or instruction that I have ever seen, but I'd bet almost every one of us has had that condition, and my way of dealing with it came about by chance many years ago and I have used that method ever since. I can think of hundreds of tips to give a new owner that will save a lot of time and embarassment. Little things like turn off the OTR air or generator or Cruise Airs temporarily when leaving a hard surfaced road onto a dry dusty dirt road. Or how about pull relay 76 in the rear if you do not want the brake lights to come on everytime the Jake or the retarder is engaged?

    How many of us learned the hard way to fire up the Webasto routinely to avoid problems with the nozzle? I still have not seen any Prevost or converter manuals advise to weight the bus and using the axle weights to get the correct tire pressures from the tire manufacturer pressure charts.

    Or how about release the parking brake on the toad before driving?
    Funny you mention the air conditioner issue, moving from pavement to gravel and dirt. I have two RVAC units in the bays. I stopped at an RV park in the BIG RIG book in Rawlins Wy. it was not very nice, but they were red dirt and gravel sites, The next morning I had a lot of fine dirty dust in the coach, not a nice feeling. I think I collected it from that overnight using the heat pumps at full blast.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg View Post
    Or how about pull relay 76 in the rear if you do not want the brake lights to come on everytime the Jake or the retarder is engaged?
    Jon, can you tell me your thoughts on why you wouldn't want the traffic behind you to know you were slowing down, even just with the Jake Pressure?


    In other words, what is your reason for pulling the 76 Relay so the brake light does not come on, when decelerating?

    Also is it the same relay in my 01 XLII? I would hate to disengage my electric toilet by accident, instead of the brake lights?

    Gary S

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