Tips on finding a roof leak

Okay, so I'm fiddling around the other day and notice a rust spot on my drivers side dash and discover a drip off a fastener overhead. This was after getting caught in a downpour a few days earlier. Got out the flashlight, looked up overhead in the cabinets, behind the TV but no obvious sign of where the moisture could be coming from. Also found a damp area below the A pillar like it may have run down that way too.
So hear is the question: Any tried and true methods for locating a roof leak? The bus was parked so I doubt it's coming from a windshield.
Anyone care to share some knowledge?

Roof leaks are a bear to track down. In a previous coach, I had a leak in a storage pod, bolted through the roof. Evidently gromits got old, and left room for rain to come in.

The problem was that the water traveled over 1/2 the coach, down into a corner. Nowhere near the leak. I finally had to remove much of my ceiling panel to finally find it.

Hopefully if you can get on top of your bus, you can find any obvious leaks and re-seal them.

I'm about at the point of resealing everything 'cause I haven't found anything obvious. Guess I'm looking for a magic bullet.
Glad I keep it under cover.

If you have bus air it will pressurize the bus,turn it on and use a sprayer with bubbles in it and the leak should show up.

Unfortunately I don't have bus air but I was thinking about something like that.

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Originally Posted by jack14r

If you have bus air it will pressurize the bus,turn it on and use a sprayer with bubbles in it and the leak should show up.

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Yet another benefit to Prevost OTR equipped bus conversions :D

If you have a good sized shop vac or leaf blower you can rig a way to blow air into one of the windows. It will take cardboard and duct tape and look goofy but it will introduce positive pressure into the bus.

Seal up the obvious air escapes such as the microwave vent (don't worry about the plumbing vents) and that should give you enough pressure to blow bubbles.

My guess is an antenna or clearance marker light.

Steve,

Please don't let any plastic coach guys see you with a leaf blower taped to your driver window!:eek: Prevost pressurizes the bus in a similar manner and then soaps the piss out out of everything. Or, just get Jeep with all his hot air to show up and your leaks are found....:p

I believe the folks that pointed out that we spend waaaay to much time on mechanical stuff are right.

We not only have folks asking how to deal with problems, but we have an army of folks responding, giving one the impression these buses are a PITA to maintain. If this stuff wasn't a universal problem, how would so many guys know how to solve it?

I suggest from now on we post questions about problems and repairs on a Winnebago site and use the code word Winnebago XL or Winnebago H3 to ask and respond to mechanical questions. Skiffer, if you are listening this is simply another business opportunity. You can call it Winnebago Stuff and set up WOG. This will make the marketplace think there are never mechanical problems with a Prevost, it will make it seem the plastic palaces have problems and it will drive folks with Winnebagos crazy trying to find their Norgren Valves.

Our market values will increase because of the perception of trouble free performance, and the values of plastic coaches will plummet.

We will leave this and the P-Stuff site solely for pictures of sunsets and threads about good luxury RV parks.

Is this a good idea or what???????

Leak? What leak. I was just thinking that IF I had a leak, which I would surely have hundreds of if I still had a plastic coach, how would I find it.
I'm sure if I plugged an leaf blower into the Old "Winnie" I'd blow "Bago bits" to kingdom come !

My last leak was from an antenna on the rear of my coach. The self leveling roof sealant is just the thing to re seal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg

I believe the folks that pointed out that we spend waaaay to much time on mechanical stuff are right.

We not only have folks asking how to deal with problems, but we have an army of folks responding, giving one the impression these buses are a PITA to maintain. If this stuff wasn't a universal problem, how would so many guys know how to solve it?

I suggest from now on we post questions about problems and repairs on a Winnebago site and use the code word Winnebago XL or Winnebago H3 to ask and respond to mechanical questions. Skiffer, if you are listening this is simply another business opportunity. You can call it Winnebago Stuff and set up WOG. This will make the marketplace think there are never mechanical problems with a Prevost, it will make it seem the plastic palaces have problems and it will drive folks with Winnebagos crazy trying to find their Norgren Valves.

Our market values will increase because of the perception of trouble free performance, and the values of plastic coaches will plummet.

We will leave this and the P-Stuff site solely for pictures of sunsets and threads about good luxury RV parks.

Is this a good idea or what???????

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fine idea - just let me have the code key so I can keep up with the maintenance on my "Winnie."

I don't know if this will work or not, but if you have access to an ultrasonic leak detector with the optional sound making device you can try this and tell the group if it actually works.

The booklet says you can put the electronic noise maker inside the coach and turn it on. Take the listening device up on the roof. Scan the wand over each and every joint etc. The theory is that the sound will travel through the leak and you will be able to hear it in your listening device.

If this actually works, it would allow you to identify the leak, even if it is far away from the place where you saw the water in the coach. Plus, it would keep you from having to risk being spotted with a leaf blower taped to the window, or whatever contraption it was I read about on the last page.

Good luck. Please post results if you try it!

Debbie Faires

I had an antenna leak and I tried that. It did not work. I did work in finding leaks around the door seal on my plane using that method so maybe the sound needs a straight path from the emitter to the receiver.

Since my roof seams and pentrations were minimal I determined where my leak was fairly easily by running water and seeing it start to drip at an antenna hole. I could have saved the trouble of looking merely by just going ahead and resealing all penetrations and seams using this:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-sealant/21208

I masked everything off so I had nice straight lines, applied the sealant and pulled the masking tape while it was still wet, and in the last 4 years haven't had an issue with leaks. The sealant is self leveling and does not harden, but remains flexible. If you don't mask it looks sloppy, and if you do mask and wait until it dries the sealer will pull up.

Every leak I've had in the forward compartment has come from clearance lights. At least on CC, they seem to be prone to loosening up and leaking.

I have an ultrasonic unit if your in the area and want to try it.

Works good on cars. Found a leak in a friends sun roof that the dealer could not find.

Truk, make sure you put on your official Liberty Bling suit before you blow your bus. Man, first sheep and now this.

O.K. Back to air type leaks. What soap works best and what percentage mixture in a bottle will show the most bubbles ?

Dishwashing soap mixed with water will work, but this is what the pros use.

http://www.alliedsupply.com/store/ca...5A180641C46513

That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you !

Jim, You should be able to get the Big Blue leak detector at any refrigeration supply.