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I guarantee that u have the same hub. The only way they configured the drive axle hub for almost 20 yr that I'm aware of possibly longer.
I'm confused now because u have to have removed the dust cap. Its the only way u can get the leaky seal and then the inner bearing out. First remove the dust cover then the ring that holds the seal.
If u pulled the hub for leaking at the rear this is the only way to remove the seal that is causing the leak. If U did not pull the dust cap what was your plan of attack? How did U get the seal out. How u gonna put the new?
Another thing, u r not thinking correctly if u r even thinking about changing the front brake diaphragms from 24s to 30s. I do not even know they will fit and that's just unheard of. You would be wise to reconsider that.
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Many prevo hubs have the ring that keys the inner nut to the spindle but do not have the second washer that bends over the outer nut to also lock it. SO the outer nut has to be really tighted down vigorously or u run the risk of it getting loose. Once u free the outer nut the inner nut can or SHOULD be able to be turned off by hand. That is the critical adjustment going back together that should ave been noted before it was removed to either A verify it was either put on at the factory and correct OR installed later and wherever the prior mechanic put it at.
U do not put ANY torque on the inner nut much less 50lb. There should be 1\1000 to 5\1000 play in the hub if the inner nut is set correctly.
U better be carful it seems to me u r treading in deep waters.
I'd be very interested in learning where u sourced the brake shoe and linings for the drive axle as an assembly. If I had a chassis that the preformance of the brakes were in question and less than desirable I would not be going to outside sources for their replacement. Like I said earlier I never put brake components on prevo unless they come from prevo.
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