Hi Jim,

Hope you and Linda are doing well, despite the water heater!

First, call Raritan, they will give you a 25% discount on the heater if you give them the model and serial number of your old unit. There is no way the heater would come out of mine without removing the tank. The tank is not a bad job to remove, 4 hoses and the tank level sensors and out it comes. I did have to remove part of my shower PVC drain pipe, but that was easy since it's just joined with hose clamps. I could now have it out in about 1/2 hour.

The coolant lines should have shut-offs on them coming out of the cross member inside the bay. I'm too concerned about leaks, so new copper and solder was a must for me. I also replaced all the fresh water shut-off valves, they all had a little rust indicating some leakage at the packing nut. You won't lose much coolant, I drained out about 1/2 quart from the heater and lines. Your probably much better off than I was because of your bus age and the new heater may match up perfect with the old one. Be sure to mark the in/out coolant lines, for some reason Raritan says they have to be correct, but I have my doubts. It's just a loop inside the heater with no restrictions, so it shouldn't really matter. I think Jon agree's with me on that one.

I also had to change out the cooper water lines and drains because the new heater was just too far out of alignment from the original. I had no choice, if Brian saw old nasty cooper in the pictures, I would be in trouble!

If you need some moral support, don't be afraid to call me at 770-634-7530.

IMG_3361_1..JPG
Almost done....