Question

[Jon Wehrenberg]

This was addressed on another thread, but clues are starting to creep in about Jeff's problem.

If the battery balance light is coming on, don't worry as much about the alternator until you check out the batteries. Still not enough information to isolate the problems Jeff describes, but separating fully charged batteries and testing them with a carbon pile tester may reveal the possible cause of battery discharge and the imbalance light coming on.

Also, I don't want to hurt feelings here, but shocks are so simple to replace it boggles my mind to think anyone couldn't do it in a couple of hours. General advice: check around for pricing. If you own some tools consider doing stuff yourself.

[Jeff Bayley]

Tom- The problem is on my 97 Royale. To review, I have a new 270 amp house alternator, Less than 1 year old house batteries, a new Vanner installed less than a year ago (probabley still under warranty) and the chassis batteries are a little over a year old I recall. If it turns out to be the chassis batteries they will be prorated as I think they are still under warranty. The Yo Yo's at Prevost New Jersey tried to solve the (similar) problem in Feb of this year by brining in new batteries despite the fact that I informed them the batteries were fairly new at the time. Further probing after I insisted they were solving incorrectly revealed a defective Vanner. $700 for a new one which should be under warranty still. I guess the batteries could be due for another independent load test which they'll do today (waiting for the hand men to summon me any moment so write soon!) Mainly, I want to avoid replacing the alternator if it isn't actually defective and if the voltage regulator inside the alternator has an intermitent problem then the answer may be that you can't know for sure and I just have to use the process of elimination. The Delco 24 volt alternator looks original. Anyone know what the price for the rebuilt should be wiht the trade in ? $300-$400 sound about right ?

Jeff

[Coloradobus]

foontoon,
There is a very easy test to see if you voltage regulator is grounding out. If your charging trouble is chassis related, the voltage regulator ($250-+) could be bad

Also, on a Marathon, there is an oil pressure switch off of the 270 amp house alternator that seems to control house charging as well as the frig door lock.
First, if you have a Marathon, does the red block light on the dash come on and stay after you start the motor.? 2nd, seeing the house volts on the screen, does the house volts show 25 amps or less?
If it does, first check the connection at the oil switch, clean it and be sure there is a perfect conncetion. Might add some diaelectric grease to the connection and crimp it good.
If

[Jeff Bayley]

Tom, Jon and all-

The reaper came and knocked a bit ago and I'm in the shop right now. They changed out the small battery monitor which is also made by Vanner company. I was pleasantly surprised at the cost ($110). I'll guess I'll see if that fixes it. They said the chassis batteries passed the load test. I'll see if the battery monitor remedies the two lights (balance AND Hi/Lo lights on dash were both on.

This coach is a Royle by the way not a Marathon.

Jeff

[merle&louise]

Jeff:

I watched a tech check my alternator the other day. He put a volt meter on the engine battery and it read 12+ volts. Then he put an amp meter clamp around the positive (red) cable that connected to the alternator. He told me to start the engine & race it a little. The amp meter showed 20 amps; which meant that the alternator was charging 20 amps, and he said that was good!