This generator saga is officially turning into a mini-series…. Received the new exciter stator from Power Tech this morning and….. well look for yourself:
Not only are there 8 magnets vs 6 but also 4 mounting bolt holes vs 3. It did ohm out at 33 which tech support said was “within range” - manual range is 23-28 and voltage regulator requires 15 or greater to apply voltage. The the “can we make it work” thought process kicked in. Yes a machine shop can punch 3 holes in the correct position but are the ID & OD close/compatible?
Of course not:
6 pads on old 9.485” OD
5.775” ID
8 pads on new
9.050” OD (almost 1/2” smaller)
6.050” ID (1/4” larger)
so after tech support and parts punted me back and forth between the departments a few times the answer was it’s a Marathon generator end (confirming my suspicion above) and it’s discontinued. They are sending me a return ticket and a refund upon receipt.
This is a bit of a vent/rant, I kept having to fend off the, it’s old, I’ll sell you a new one comments…. It’s disheartening to hear the throw it away buy a new argument for absolutely everything… while cramming Chinese products down our throats. You know what the longest lasting thing to ever come out of China is? Covid… (joke for the day)
Then I called around and found a shop that still rewinds these things. If I cared to wait 2-3 weeks it would be less than $500, but because i need it now before my family mutinies on me, $800 and he should be done by Saturday. He will have to hand wind it as his machine is in use, so it’s really an extra labor charge but well worth it. We had to hand wind a starter armature in the military in school just to learn how - that’s some tedious stuff I don’t wish on anyone. Wrap, insulate… rinse and repeat a thousand times. In the meantime I’m going to replace the end bearing as that’s really the one big item that will cash the generator end, bearing fails and drops rotor on stators at 1800rpm with 36hp behind it… think big die grinder… lol
This bearing here:
Our Alaska plans are getting flipped around but still possible… I’m going to tackle the driver AC units (2) in the dash and overhead. I had it blowing 43 degree air then in the morning when we went to leave…nada. I don’t see it cycling at all (pressures, compressor is engaged and spinning) - I hope it’s a clogged orifice tube but probably the expansion valve. Usually these dual unit single compressor systems have one of each. Investigation will tell.
will be rebuilding toilet (Microphor) F210 air as soon as parts arrive. The flapper was broken and glued back together previously and when I tried to replace the flapper seal the flapper started folding along the glue joint so apparently the flapper seal is holding the flapper together…. I’m only taking that bowl off once so even though that is the only problem with the toilet - it’s all getting done regardless. Poopy jobs are no fun. Not nearly as bad as replacing a duck bill valve on the poop tank pump (on top of the tank - vacuum flush) on a boat while in a hole, below water line, bobbing up and down in the ocean with a full tank - all from a curious kid turning the overboard discharge key/switch with the overboard seacock closed - turns the valves inside out every time…. No RV septic work compares to that… I had a 5gal bucket beside me as I was getting seasick at the same time. I remember my father telling me as a kid that a power outage is an inconvenience but running out of TP in the bathroom is an emergency. How true, the poor ladies on board were crossed legs and potty dancing waiting on me. Memories….