Wiring issues with new toad

[Ck2hans]

Just wired my new 2024 Jeep GC lights up and having a bleed through issue on the L & R turn signals. In the process of troubleshooting I have determined the bleed through is coming from the coach. No wiring has been changed so I am assuming the bleed through is showing up on the new car because of the sensitivity of the new LED taillights on the GC.
Any thoughts on how to resolve the bleed through/feed back on the L & R turn signal coming from the bus?
Chuck

[Fratto]

Forgive me ... what do you mean feed through?

Did you add the wiring to the GC or did you have it done?

[Ck2hans]

I installed the wiring, triple checked it and even sent pictures to Roadmaster to confirm proper installation. Car is wired properly, coach is seeing a low voltage leak to the left side when the right side turn signal is on and Vice versa.
What ever turn signal you have on it flashes brightly as it should, but the opposite side has a dim strobing to it.
When I test the light plug on the back of the coach with a LED test light I get a strong light on the turn signal side that is on (I.E. left or right) and a dim flashing on the opposite turn signal side that’s not on.
If I test it with a regular incandescent bulb test light I do not get the dim flashing on the opposite side. If I am correct it is because the low voltage that is passing through to the opposite light is not enough to light a standard incandescent bulb, but it is enough to dimly flash a LED bulb.
Need to figure out how to stop the low voltage from bleeding over to the opposite turn signal. I am not very good with electrical, so this is about where my knowledge ends.
Chuck

[Fratto]

I see said the blind man. Do you have any wiring information or part information for the system that featherlight used to drive the trailer lighting system?

[Ck2hans]

Don’t know if this is readable. I struggle to read electrical drawings, it’s all Greek to me.

[Fratto]

Thanks chuck. I will take a look and make some calls later today.

[Fratto]

Chuck: I was not able to talk to a LED trailer guru to day. However, looking at your diagram, it appears that Featherlite created the hitch wiring with their own relay board as opposed to using something off the shelf. The only component that I see that could be somehow tied to both blinkers is Relay K2 for the brake lights. It is a long shot, but remove that relay from the hitch relay board. Then test the blinkers again using your LED and incandescent test lights and see if that changes anything. BTW, I assume you are testing just the bus socket without the cord right?

[Ck2hans]

After a lot of muddling along I found the problem. The K3A & K3B are actually one larger relay and K5A & K5B are also one larger relay. Turns out the feedback was coming from the European wire side of the relay. I disconnected the Positive wires to the European side of the K5 & K3 relays and no more feedback. Don't know if that was a proper fix, but it resolved the issue, so I will consider it case closed.
Chuck

[Fratto]

Nice job Chuck. The diagrams do not lead one to believe that these are actually one relay instead of two.

If you care, you should check that the blinkers still work with the brakes applied. The K3A and K5A relays appear to provide that function in tandem with the K2 relay. Honestly this would not bother me. The main thing I want is for people to know that I am changing lanes.

[Ck2hans]

UPDATE
Removing the two power leads to the European side caused the towed brake lights to stop working. Hooked the two hot wires back up and installed diodes on the two hot leads. Now towed brake lights are back working and turn signals don’t have the feed back issue.
Yay. It’s been a long road to resolving this, feels good to have it behind me.
Chuck