The Early 80's

[Joe Camper]

Item 6

Tag Axle Spindles and inner oil seals.

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heres where the inner seal of the hub rides on the spindle. This is NOT the tag its the drive axle hub in the picture. big radius, just wonderful. almost impossible to mif it and nick the seal going togeather.

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Here is what u get on the tag spindle. This carries through to mid 90s same stuff and in other aspects to this day with round nuts and pinch nuts.

Look at the unbelievably stupid seal riding surface on the tag spindle compared to the drives. Zoom in on this one. Id like to meet the guy who signed off on this design. Why would u not put a smidge of a radius on this??,

Because of this regardless of who pulls a tag hub IE local shop, prevo, yourself, me, keep a closer eye on the backside of the wheel to be sure the seal isint nicked on the friggin 90° Edge on the spindle. It only holds a pint full and it can drain in a hurry if it leaks. Yes u can go in for a leaky seal and leave with 1 too. Sorry. keep an eye on it till u know its ben put good after service here.

Because of this design this procedure has M.I.F. written all over it. Be conch any time the tag hub is being removed from the spindle.

So now, how tight is tight???????

I always mention about how u should always index the hub before u disassemble it, see how mamy exposed threads u can count on the spindle before u loosin it. ITS CRITICAL FOR A NOVICE to do this on these tag hubs. The seal goes up SO TIGHT a novice might assume the hub is tight when its fsr from it. Il get the hub up put the outer bearing in and get the nut started. Then snug the nut turn the hub while hitting with a large rubber mallet snug the nut again and repeat until the 2 nuts and washer expose the same amount of threads on the spindle that u had before u disassembled it.

if u set the inner nut correctly (its a round nut) do this after u verifyed the seal is completly seated. Then turning the round nut back a tic till its free then back tight, EASY, like safe crackin, by hand,easy, feeling close, find exactly where the round nut touches the bearing, that exact spot.

Next, this is where many blow it.

Turn it back loose 50°(aprox. friggin round nut). On a regular nut its exactly 1 flat spot of the nut backed off.

If u have it good u will feel 1 or 2 1,000ENTHS of jiggle if to grab the hub and jiggle and see. AND then, after u run up the second locking nut up the jiggle in the hub goes away. That would be just about right. They say u can have a couple thousands in there tight but i think this tends to cause scuffing on the spindle where the inner races on the bearings ride.

Choice is yours either way is within spec, sorta. Do u trust me? I told u my coustomers have been refered to as test pilots. Scatterbrain Service right? LOL

Whos gonna be my next test pilot??

Oh I neglected to mention the steer axle has the same desined spindles.

[Fratto]

When using the torque multiplier how do you measure the torque ?

[Joe Camper]

Instead of a breaker bar with the multiplier u put a torque wrench. My multiplyer is 10 to 1 so i set the wrench at 65. and it clicks at 650.

[Joe Camper]

Item 7

The ride height valves.

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A brief history. L to R

First one left these were on chassis until the early 90s
King of the Road ride height valves. They win the absolute best co name for the product they provide award. love that name. These r not interchageable u have to specify L or R.

next one from the left is a Haldex they were put on mid 90s chassis. All position easily available good valve. Co / product name ........ needs help

next 1 over. 1 year wonder.
knore bremse. Very short run, they suck, sorry. These things r spring loaded and even if u know that goin in the friggin thing spins out of yer finger and your posed with trial and error a few times before the new one is functioning correctly. Get my drift?? These really make problems for the novice. No wonder they didnt stay long.

Last one to the right.
Hendricson type. These came along by 2000 and I know they go at least till 12. These r great very small simple design very difficult to get wrong. the all around best choice accept for the bran name. Wouldnt suprise me to learn they r still using these.

Question one of u guys with 2016 and newer. R the chassis still using the hendricson type or have they moved on again?

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King a the Road Ya baby u have no pulse if that name dont excite ya. I need to get a pair of these on my Peterbilt!!

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heres the adjustment for ride height for your 80s chassis. These r very nice. Makes small adjustments a sinch.

On the 80s chassis with ALL copper plumbing the small stuff the 1/4 and 3/8 those r what become welded togeather over time . The bigger stuff all seperates good. Be very very careful with the 1/4 flare at the ride height valve. Have a fliring tool and couplers on hand and ready if u r changing these.

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the 83 La Mirage Shes sportin her new kingatheroads. yes sir.

[John L.]

Maybe a "U" Tube channel in the future?

[Gil_J]

Agreed, you need to do videos.

[Joe Camper]

show me Gill. Ill do them here not on u-tube.

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Some proper bits for a Liberty Prevo. Pictured r the king a the road height valve the R6 brake relay and the 1 way check valve for the primary tank.

We r on to the front. We replaced all 3 brake relays all the rubber brake hoses all the chambers and diaphrams We also replaced the check valves on the primary ans secondary tanks the the emergency brake relay and the ride height valves on the entire chassis. Thats in addition to pulling all the hubs to the spindles inspecting and cleaning the brakes and reassembling with all new seals and oil, new brake rollers and return springs. 10 air bags and 10 new shocks r icing on the cake.

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Item 8
The 4 air bag straight axle steer axle.

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1/4 in copper line. Very correct. Still seals up after all these years.

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And the regular suspect the drag link dirt boot. Either yours is replaced or it needs to be. Some things never change.

Ok this is something special. The 4 bag straight axle steer axle. These r the strongest and best riding front axles prevo EVER put on a bus. To this day. They went away with the 83 model year what a shame.

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A happy happy 83 look at er shes glowing.

[Joe Camper]

Item 9

The brake drum pilot and retaining screws.

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These brake drums r piloted to the hub and its a tight machined fit. Even after u get the tapered screws out of the drums they will be very stuck a sledge or a port a power is required to seporate them. The pictures tell the tale. Clean and sand the mating surfaces before reassembly. Every time the drum comes off this needs to happen

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These r the tapered screws that go through the drum and into the hub. These r very often drilled out to remove because of bad assembly. These r more for assembly that securement of the drum. With a newer drum and hub the drum is so massive it will cock on the hub making it impossible to mount the rim. These facilitate keeping the drum flush up with the hubso the rim goes right. They also help correctly seating the 2 opposing flanges.

Once u have the drum all the way up on the hub I go back and 1 at a time take the screws out antisieze them then reinsert them and do NOT tighten them down but rather as soon as the screw hits its seat stop right there thats enough. Go around 1 at a time and do all 5. Once u have the drum on its pilot putting the inner rim on will run it all tight. It will also capture those screws with the flange of the rim and even if they r a tic loose they can not go anywhere. This way the next poor basterd that goes to take the drum off probably wont have to drill them.

The last few years prevo put drum drive brakes they omit even using them thats good and bad. They dont get stuck but another process is needed to be sure the drum isint cocked prior to installing the inner rim and tire.

In short clean the pilot surfaces and do not rip down the tapered screws.

[Chad Speer]

I came back to this thread to review Joe’s description of the work he did, and realized I never posted an introduction. Well, better late than never. I’m that greasy fella in the chair wondering what in the hell he signed up for.

I’ve had this bus for almost four years now. Repairs and upgrades have been a lot of fun, and have also given me the opportunity to learn new skills. I had been nibbling at the edges of some of the bigger projects, but Joe came in and knocked nearly all of them out in a little over a week. I’m still chasing a few air leaks (Joe - I replaced those low pressure switches!), but am close to buttoning her up for a good trip or two.

I generally read a lot more than I post on forums, but I’ll be sure to chime in from time to time. I really appreciate the chance to learn from more experienced owners.

[gdub]

Joe- R U coming to the Expo this week would like to meet up