Page 7 of 11 FirstFirst ... 56789 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 106

Thread: Why to have your top end looked at!

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Huntsville
    Posts
    3,135

    Default

    I see there are other systems out there that are supposed to do the same thing as the Pre-Luber. Some systems cost less, but don't appear to be as effective.

    I am wondering how long it actually takes for all the oil around the bearings to actually drain out or dry up? As close as the fit is, I don't really see how "all" the oil can possibly drain out from around the bearings? It seems for some reasonable time, there should be some oil between the mated surfaces even if the oil has basically drained from the open surfaces. I suppose if left long enough the oil between the mated surfaces either dissipates or turns to a gummy substance.
    Dale & Paulette

    "God Loves you and has a plan for your life!

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    177

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JIM CHALOUPKA View Post
    Wishing you the best my friend, hope you are successful in your endeavor. Take no offense in my comments, just pulling your, ... a little.


    JIM
    Jim,

    No offense taken, we're just trying to figure out this, new to us, Detroit Diesel engine.

    Although it may have existed we never heard about a similar problem with the C13 CAT we operated for several years. We had a lot of problems with the rest of the motorhome but never the C13. It just purred and purred

    And, knock on wood, we haven't had any problems so far with the DD.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    thomasville,nc
    Posts
    1,209

    Default

    I have seen a lot of owners crank their series 60 and go straight to high idle,I read somewhere that we should let the engine idle at the lower speed for about 3 minutes before increasing the idle speed in order to make sure that all metals are lubed.If an engine does not have enough lubrication at start up I wonder if roller rocker damage like Kevin has shown us could be a result of high idle just after start up.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    177

    Default

    An update.

    I talked to Valley Detroit, Gene I think it was, about pre lubrication and he stated they do the pre lubrication using a drill pump connected to the oil hose at the compressor.

    He stated that any place you could get to a oil line or port would do, they just use the one at the compressor because it's easiest to get access to it. He also stated that there was a Detroit pre lubrication tool that did the same thing but that they just use the drill pump.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Anaheim
    Posts
    566

    Default

    Did he say when and why they would do the pre lube?

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    507

    Default

    James,

    That's all I need. I'd be quite happy with the DD solution. Did they mention whether the pre-oiler is sufficient to lube the cam and the followers?

    David Brady
    '02 Blue Bird Wanderlodge LXi,
    Series 60 Equipped,
    Asheville, NC

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    177

    Default

    The Valley Detroit guy indicate that they prelube the new engines or ones that have been inactive for a long time. He didn't seem to think that 30 days was long enough to need prelube however it couldn't hurt.

    He also indicated that the oil went all through all the engine, including the top end.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    507

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by James View Post
    He didn't seem to think that 30 days was long enough to need prelube however it couldn't hurt.
    Well there you have it. So people, get out there and drive your bus once every 30 days, and if you can't do that, consider a pre-oiler, and if your travel season is over, in preparation for storage, dump that old acid laden corrosive oil and put in fresh stuff.

    David Brady
    '02 Blue Bird Wanderlodge LXi,
    Series 60 Equipped,
    Asheville, NC

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    177

    Default

    One thing I forgot, the Valley Detroit guy did stress that you need to follow the manual on changing the oil if you're going to let the engine sit for awhile.

    Seems you want to drain the old oil out when the engine is cold to make sure you get all of the condensation that is in the old oil, fill with new oil and only run the engine for a couple of minutes with the new oil so it lubricates everything but doesn't get hot enough to cause condensation when you shut down.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    507

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by James View Post
    Seems you want to drain the old oil out when the engine is cold to make sure you get all of the condensation that is in the old oil, fill with new oil and only run the engine for a couple of minutes with the new oil so it lubricates everything but doesn't get hot enough to cause condensation when you shut down.
    Excellent, that's the clearest explanation I've heard on why to do it cold and shut it off early.

    There's so much mythology surrounding the concept of engine/oil warmup, synthetics and dino oils, pre-lube, storage and periodic driving. This thread has gone a long way to putting many of these myths to rest.

    1) There's no substitute for daily/weekly driving.
    2) If number 1 can't be achieved, then at least drive it every 30 days.
    3) Get that old oil out of there, especially if storing for greater than 30 days.
    4) If storing for greater than 30 days, consider a pre-oiler, and
    5) synthetics need to be treated the same way, no distinction is made.

    David Brady
    '02 Blue Bird Wanderlodge LXi,
    Series 60 Equipped,
    Asheville, NC
    Last edited by travelite; 12-10-2009 at 08:47 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •