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Thread: New member ... new to me 2001 Marathon XLVII

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

    Default

    Joe,

    21.8V for 30 seconds is not too low. The 30 second timer would only be affected by a fairly heavily loaded battery. That voltage must not rise above that for the full 30 seconds. A better AGS trigger would be based on state of charge. SoC takes the varying load affected voltage out of the equation.

    You might be surprised what the resting voltage is on a battery drawn down to this voltage due to a heavy load.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Pueblo West
    Posts
    55

    Default Cruisair Aux Heat issue semi-resolved

    The mystery about why my Cruisair isn't switching to aux heat is because apparently the prior owner yanked the module out. I don't know if it failed and removed or relocated to another bus or whatever, but I have to get a replacement. Perhaps it will all work then. The coach is like a box of chocolates ....


    20200324_124709.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by TerryCurtis View Post
    I've had several RVs in the past, included diesel pushers and finally decided to made the move to bus.

    Not being made of money caused me to have a budget, therefore setting the age window fairly strict. After much fit/finish research online and in person, I decided on which converter I was going to buy. After much looking and having a particular floor plan in mind, I finally found the coach.

    It was 800 miles away. I flew down to look at for nearly a day. Totally insufficient, especially when you don't have any idea what you are looking for aside from my isn't this pretty. As recommended elsewhere, I should have paid some qualified dude to check over the coach first. Being much more informed may/may not have changed my decision, but would at least have been informed...which is always good.

    I asked the seller, a prominent consignor, a bunch of questions in silly hopes I'd get honest answers rather than typical used-car salesmenship. I showed up for the final walkthru/purchase and a few issues still raised my eyebrows, but on the whole I wanted the coach, so I closed the deal. Now, don't get me wrong, the coach is not a nightmare and being a 2001 I fully expected to have a few things to resolve.

    So, I have a few questions about the things I need to resolve. I've look and haven't found exactly my issues already posted so here it goes.

    1. The coach has 3 Cruisairs. The galley unit seems to cool just fine, however it doesn't activate the aux heat. The control is set using the double-tab and the heat indicator blinks and when the temperature is reached, the heat indicator lights but I don't hear any relay and neither the Wabesto heat nor cadet will run. Breakers are good. The 12V and 110V heat are on in the closet as the other two units work fine. I swapped control panels with another unit with no difference. If I activate the manual mode on the techlink module under the sink for the galley heat, the Wabesto fan will run. So it seems like the there is no relay telling the techlink to charge the Wabesto relay. Where should I look next? Is there something on the Cruisair unit itself that could be checked/reset? If I have both the 110V heat and 12V heat buttons on, is both the Wabesto AND cadet heat supposed to run at the same time?

    2. When buying the coach, the step cover would not operator properly. They replaced the piston that extends the cover. But, I think it now has an air leak. If I leave the step cover retracted, I can hear the air leak. If the step cover is extended, I don't hear any air. Haven't tried to get to the bottom of it, but it does tend to drain the aux air tank fairly quick. Speaking of aux air tank ... can one of you confirm my understanding: Front and Rear air tanks are for the break system. The Aux is used for the pocket door, step, and ride height/leveling. Do I have that right?

    3. I think I have a curbside rear air leak of some sort, unless somehow it is related to the step cover causing the aux air tank to drain. I am leaving the step cover extended overnight to see if the coach leans over overnight. It has with the step cover retracted. As I said, could be totally unrelated as I thought the air bags shouldn't let air back out once in unless the bag itself is leaking or the valve is leaking/defective.

    4. I'm fairly sure the 6 4D batteries need replacing. I can only be without power for about 2 to 4 hours before the generator is started. Where is the best place/price to get them replaced. Those suckers are a bit expensive and look to be a little bit of PITA to change out.

    5. A previous owner swapped out the TVs and appears to have abandoned the techlink monitoring at the front drop down TV and the dash. The dash monitor was replaced with a Kenwood system that has the backup camera, but didn't attempt to hook up the techlink on another video source. So a little fiddling around with that to make it whole. They must have an uncapped coax or some cable around the a power supply because I am getting a lot of interference in the bedroom view of techlink screens. So I've got to track that down to get a clean picture.

    I'm sure there is more I'm missing, and have yet to find. Even with these issues, I'm happy to join the ranks of Prevost ownership. It is much like the large boats I've had in the past...another money pit. But like the boats, I plan to enjoy the heck out of it and make it better than I got it. These are not issues, they are opportunities.

    Anyway, if you have wisdom or insights on my current list of ... opportunities, please forward them along.

    - Terry
    2001 Marathon XLII #669
    2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Pueblo West
    Posts
    55

    Default

    With a replacement aux control box installed, the cadet and Wabesto heat now work. Unfortunately, in opening the 20 inch flexible suction line has a hole in it and I've lost all of the R22. So I've got to find a source for the replacement hose and get it recharged for the AC/heat pump to work. Sigh.

    20200401_130229.jpg
    2001 Marathon XLII #669
    2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

    Default

    R-22 should not be too hard to find. It seems it was being bought up in such large supplies that the price isn't even totally crazy.

    Glad to hear it was as simple as the controller.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Pueblo West
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Tom, are you able to provide a quote for 6 batteries (presumably from the same batch)?
    Is this really something I should be doing myself or have them shipped to a qualified installer?
    Is there a list of favorite/trusted folks that install them?
    Are there gotchyas in doing it with all the electronics going on in a Marathon so it doesn't die ;-)


    Quote Originally Posted by truk4u View Post
    Terry,

    You likely have (6) 4DL batteries, contact me for a great price on Lifeline Batteries. I can have you batteries in a couple days.
    2001 Marathon XLII #669
    2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Indio
    Posts
    589

    Default

    I found that the price of the raw batteries, compared to the price of having someone else install them was worth letting someone else deal with it.
    They are very heavy and easy to melt a socket set or end wrench by touching the wrong thing. I have a few melted tools to show for it.
    Can you do it yourself? Sure. But it wasn't worth the $400 difference to me.

    As for the Marathon, you'll have to power down everything.
    Joe & Diane Hoffman
    Prior coach: 2001 Marathon H3-45
    Sold the coach.
    For details: https://intelopment.wix.com/prevost/

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jasper
    Posts
    3,775

    Default

    Terry,

    Your price for 4DL’s would be 548.00 each plus shipping. Lifeline Battery inventories are at an all time low, some sizes not available for 2 -3 weeks. 4DL’s were still in stock yesterday, but at a low level, so don’t wait long if you want to order. Contact me here: Lifeline

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

    Default

    Marathon did not do a great job of wiring or mounting the house batteries in most models. Yours may well be in the small bay behind the tag. If so, they are best wired as they are each installed. It's best done with 2 people for the angle mounted batteries. Marathon for some odd reason must not understand the value of bussbars. Instead they stack a lot of cables on one battery terminal. I'd change that.

    If your batteries are on the driver's side, they are easily changed.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Pueblo West
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Gil, that's exactly how these are mounted, behind the tag, angled, a spiderweb of wiring with very little clearance. I am extremely hesitant to do it myself. It may well be a valuable insurance policy to pay Marathon to do it, however it will be costly...but maybe less costly than me frying the coach electronics.
    2001 Marathon XLII #669
    2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Indio
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Marathon-Coburg charged me $4k for the whole job. That's a $600 install charge. Worth it to me. YMMV.

    For my H, there's a metal bar across the top of the batteries that holds plastic blocks that push down on the batteries to hold them in place. The weld points that hold that bar in place had broken and Marathon fixed that as well as part of my $4k, no extra.
    Last edited by Hoffman; 12-11-2020 at 11:05 AM.
    Joe & Diane Hoffman
    Prior coach: 2001 Marathon H3-45
    Sold the coach.
    For details: https://intelopment.wix.com/prevost/

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