The Early 80's

[Joe Camper]

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The yellow stand is the body support point at the rear. ill gey a closer pic later, its raining. On your chassis there is a thickwalled piece of square stock going from left to right same spot. Place the body support stands there.

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Once you get the weight off the axles and get the wheels off another set of 4 stands go under the suspension at the 4 rear hubs. It does not require a 20 ton jack to get the tires up when the weight has been taken away. Dont kill yourself oversizing. Go to level low all the way up L and R rear. place rear support stands. Dump all air L and R rear. Jack and remove tires and rims install suspension stands lower and remove jack.

Ill get a couple pics of the correct tools to most easily pull tires.

Did u get yer fan hub straight?

Billy if u r reading this could u please send me a picture of those stands u picked up. Also send a pic of that off brand torque multiplier. Thank u

This old girl is starting to shape up aint she!!!

[Joe Camper]

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Fratto u have stud piloted hubs and studs and rims. This Is NOT NOT NOT a stud in the photo above. It IS IS IS, the " inner duel nut"

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it requires an insert for a 1,1/2 in socket OR that specific socket.

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so first u put the inner rim on then the ninner nut goes on the stud. There r threads inside and outside of thos inner nuts.

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Once the inner rim is on and nuts tight the outer rim goes up and the outer nuts thread onto the inner nuts.

Prevo used this old school stuff on the drives for a decade after the trucking industry went to the current hub piloted that only require 1 nut for duels. prevo used these a tic past 2002 or so. Even some of the chassis with drive axle disc brakes still have old style stud piloted components.

[Joe Camper]

Item 6

Tag Axle Spindles and inner oil seals.

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heres where the inner seal of the hub rides on the spindle. This is NOT the tag its the drive axle hub in the picture. big radius, just wonderful. almost impossible to mif it and nick the seal going togeather.

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Here is what u get on the tag spindle. This carries through to mid 90s same stuff and in other aspects to this day with round nuts and pinch nuts.

Look at the unbelievably stupid seal riding surface on the tag spindle compared to the drives. Zoom in on this one. Id like to meet the guy who signed off on this design. Why would u not put a smidge of a radius on this??,

Because of this regardless of who pulls a tag hub IE local shop, prevo, yourself, me, keep a closer eye on the backside of the wheel to be sure the seal isint nicked on the friggin 90° Edge on the spindle. It only holds a pint full and it can drain in a hurry if it leaks. Yes u can go in for a leaky seal and leave with 1 too. Sorry. keep an eye on it till u know its ben put good after service here.

Because of this design this procedure has M.I.F. written all over it. Be conch any time the tag hub is being removed from the spindle.

So now, how tight is tight???????

I always mention about how u should always index the hub before u disassemble it, see how mamy exposed threads u can count on the spindle before u loosin it. ITS CRITICAL FOR A NOVICE to do this on these tag hubs. The seal goes up SO TIGHT a novice might assume the hub is tight when its fsr from it. Il get the hub up put the outer bearing in and get the nut started. Then snug the nut turn the hub while hitting with a large rubber mallet snug the nut again and repeat until the 2 nuts and washer expose the same amount of threads on the spindle that u had before u disassembled it.

if u set the inner nut correctly (its a round nut) do this after u verifyed the seal is completly seated. Then turning the round nut back a tic till its free then back tight, EASY, like safe crackin, by hand,easy, feeling close, find exactly where the round nut touches the bearing, that exact spot.

Next, this is where many blow it.

Turn it back loose 50°(aprox. friggin round nut). On a regular nut its exactly 1 flat spot of the nut backed off.

If u have it good u will feel 1 or 2 1,000ENTHS of jiggle if to grab the hub and jiggle and see. AND then, after u run up the second locking nut up the jiggle in the hub goes away. That would be just about right. They say u can have a couple thousands in there tight but i think this tends to cause scuffing on the spindle where the inner races on the bearings ride.

Choice is yours either way is within spec, sorta. Do u trust me? I told u my coustomers have been refered to as test pilots. Scatterbrain Service right? LOL

Whos gonna be my next test pilot??

Oh I neglected to mention the steer axle has the same desined spindles.

[Fratto]

When using the torque multiplier how do you measure the torque ?

[Joe Camper]

Instead of a breaker bar with the multiplier u put a torque wrench. My multiplyer is 10 to 1 so i set the wrench at 65. and it clicks at 650.

[Joe Camper]

Item 7

The ride height valves.

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A brief history. L to R

First one left these were on chassis until the early 90s
King of the Road ride height valves. They win the absolute best co name for the product they provide award. love that name. These r not interchageable u have to specify L or R.

next one from the left is a Haldex they were put on mid 90s chassis. All position easily available good valve. Co / product name ........ needs help

next 1 over. 1 year wonder.
knore bremse. Very short run, they suck, sorry. These things r spring loaded and even if u know that goin in the friggin thing spins out of yer finger and your posed with trial and error a few times before the new one is functioning correctly. Get my drift?? These really make problems for the novice. No wonder they didnt stay long.

Last one to the right.
Hendricson type. These came along by 2000 and I know they go at least till 12. These r great very small simple design very difficult to get wrong. the all around best choice accept for the bran name. Wouldnt suprise me to learn they r still using these.

Question one of u guys with 2016 and newer. R the chassis still using the hendricson type or have they moved on again?

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King a the Road Ya baby u have no pulse if that name dont excite ya. I need to get a pair of these on my Peterbilt!!

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heres the adjustment for ride height for your 80s chassis. These r very nice. Makes small adjustments a sinch.

On the 80s chassis with ALL copper plumbing the small stuff the 1/4 and 3/8 those r what become welded togeather over time . The bigger stuff all seperates good. Be very very careful with the 1/4 flare at the ride height valve. Have a fliring tool and couplers on hand and ready if u r changing these.

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the 83 La Mirage Shes sportin her new kingatheroads. yes sir.

[John L.]

Maybe a "U" Tube channel in the future?