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Thread: New owner of Vintage Bus 1980

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Bothell
    Posts
    196

    Default Jake Brake Problem on my bus

    Just an update on the Jake Brake problem. It turns out their is level one and level two Jake brakes. I believe the level one (low) position involves a couple of cylinders per bank and level two does all the cylinders.

    Anyway when you have level two the low position is to activate just one bank and the high position is activate both banks which requires the three position switch.

    The wiring diagram for my bus indicated only one control wire from the front to the back, which is what you need for level one. More wires are needed for level two control. So the operator manual indicating a off/low/high switch was a red herring.

    I found the wire from one bank hanging loose and not attached to the throttle buffer switch.

    Before reconnecting I measured the resistance on the connected bank and the disconnected bank.

    The connected bank was 16 Ohms and the disconnected bank was 24 Ohms.

    Simply attaching the wire did increase the effectiveness, however still not a robust response or change in the exhaust sound when engaged.

    However when I turn if off while engaged it is more a definite effect/feedback.



    Looking from the back of the engine; yellow is a wire going to the left bank, red is a unused terminal and blue is a wire going to the right bank of the engine that isn't hooked to anything.

    Below is picture of the wire coming out of the right bank and there is similar one on the left bank.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Bothell
    Posts
    196

    Default

    Fixed the speedometer, got to looking at the circuit diagrams and it showed four wires for connections.

    Pulled the speedometer and only three were hooked up!!! After tracing wires the missing wire was the power wire, fished around in the dash and couldn't find anything that looked like it would reach.

    Anyway the previous owner stated that it used to work, but hasn't for the last couple of years, so a bit mystified as to how it could have previously functioned without a power wire.

    Provided a replacement power wire and it immediately started working again.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

    Default

    Fred, great effort. Sometimes you just have to dismiss what a previous owner tells you.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mercersburg
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Fred right on, that's a fine looking classic Prevost. I like the older ones the best. Mine is a 96 but that's only cause I insisted on a Series 60. You're hitting the ground running hard, very cool.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Bothell
    Posts
    196

    Default Heating zones heart

    Starting to make progress with my DIY hydronic system.



    I purchase a used Milwaukee M12 ProPEX expansion tool sometime ago and I have to say that it is a pleasure to use.

    The bus YouTube channel "Beginning from this Morning" has a video on using such a tool.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siWIgm8EKkY

    The not so much pleasure is that you have to visit an actual plumbers store to get supplies and forget any of the box hardware stores.

    Also this method you have to use PEX A and F1960 PEX style fittings.

    You can order from Amazon, but it tends to be larger quantities and generally not available for prime next day shipping. Start your search with "F1960 PEX", lowest price first.

    I unfortunately ordered lots of PEX B parts which is not compatible with this expansion tool.

    As part of my design I connect the pumps with 1/2 swivel adapters. So that if a pump goes bad it is easy to replace.

    These swivel adapters are only economical in PEX B for about $2.00 each, verses $20.00 each as a F1960 PEX A part.

    So I elected to hand crimp them with stainless steel rings. Given that I will be using 12-16 of them by the time I am done.

    So off to bus to do a test fit and get ready to start running PEX pipe for each heating zone.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Arlington
    Posts
    793

    Default

    You will be glad you used pex A. Much better product


    Mark and Debbie Fratto
    1998 Parliament

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    3,988

    Default

    The thing about pecs that I don't like is if you're going to use it the points were it terminates and you make that crimp have to be in the right place so you can get the Big Tool on it. and do it easily Usually there's a lot that you can't get at once it becomes in the owner's hands and they have to make any potential repairs sometimes that could be really tough so be careful where you put the crimps.

    That's an interesting tool.

    I can't ever seem to do any kind of Plumbing Leak free it just ain't in me I prefer using all the shark bite fittings.I like the idea of the simple disassembly and reusability.

    20200126_154919.jpg

    20200203_103903.jpg

    They're expensive and I don't have a lot of money but I still think they were worth buying it makes a way neater finished product and there's no leaks and if I ever have to fix something very easy to take apart.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 03-20-2020 at 11:25 PM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

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