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Thread: New Member

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Howell
    Posts
    46

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    Joe

    You can use a Cradlepoint device with a roof antenna and greatly improve both WiFi and cellular for streaming TV. It costs about $1500 for the equipment, but really changes the level of service you have. It will auto switch between WiFi and cellular based on speed and other factors to ensure you have the fastest connection.

    If you ever want more information just let me know.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

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    Joe,

    The answer is now and years from now.

    Having come from that industry, video capabilities have been a round for years...just not real time streaming. In most areas with wireless data capabilities, you could watch a movie 15 or so minutes after your request with little change of pixelation or other video disruptions. Sadly, that DVR like offering never materialized.

    The other problem is the further you get from the NFL cities the more wireless network capabilities drop. This is simple economics. The wireless sites and broadband backhaul are expensive. This too could have been overcome by the same regulation and subsidies that guaranteed phones to rural America. The wireless carriers opposed this for 2 reasons. First, they didn't want to be forced into low profit areas. Secondly, they were rightfully fearful that any Government regulation would open the floodgates to over regulation.

    RF was once a limiter. The Government forced broadcasters and government agencies to abandon the 2GHz band. They then auctioned that spectrum to the wireless carriers. Spectrum is still an issue in high density areas. This is being addressed by 5G. 5G reduces the range of cells in high density areas to pick cells. The large towers that you are used to seeing are being replaced with units small enough to install on street lights. Our scientist and engineers developed and proved a cell system the size of a Rubic's cube. That was 10+ years ago.

    Get you a Roku device and 4G hot spot and you may be surprised how well if works, but maybe not down in paradise.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

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    James,

    Can I assume you changed out the satellite system and didn't just do a programming change to the terminal?

    KVH is and has been the leader in small aperture satellite systems. I can't imagine why it would wake up and try to reacquire a satellite it's already locked to.

    The KVH RV-1 system is top of the line for our application.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Howell
    Posts
    46

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    Gil

    I changed the receivers, but never changed the KVH on the roof. It wasn’t the KVH that was trying to reacquire. The Dish receivers now do this on their own so it created a problem with the KVH already being locked and Dish looking for the satellites again. Tech support at TracVision had told me the problem is the RV-1 changes satellites at the signal from receiver. When the RV-1 isn’t in check-switch mode it wouldn’t lock on the newly requested satellite fast enough for the receiver’s check switch. Because of this when the receiver would try to relocate the satellites about 2AM it would fail because the RV-1 didn’t lock fast enough on the satellite. During normal viewing the receiver would wait for the satellite move.

    It also created a lot of issues with HD as the new Dish receivers will fail-back to SD if they can’t lock onto HD. When I would select an HD channel the RV-1 would be moving to lock onto the satellite, but the receiver would think it couldn’t be found so it would fail back to SD. Basically the only way I could get HD to work was to connect to the RV-1 and manually switch it to HD. Then I could select an HD channel on the receiver and put the RV-1 back in auto mode.

    I understand the RV-1 is top of the line and I believe my issues were related to Dish. Since moving to Directv I haven’t had any issues.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

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    James, good to know. Thanks!


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Smithville
    Posts
    326

    Default

    I have a 96 Liberty XL 40’ , and like others have said. The lists never end. I have always had 3 lists. #1) Have to do #2) need to do and #3) Wish list. And they are all subject to change the more I learn about some of the different systems. I would recommend that you place a good water separator on the auxiliary air system in the steering bay if you or previous owners have not done it yet. If your drivers cockpit fixed window are fogged up between the panes. Do not waste your money with Prevost replacements. I paid 800.00 to have the drivers side replaced and 1.5 yr later it was fogged again. Get a 3/8” single pane safety glass from Michael Moores house of rust. Change your power steering filter and fluid. Mine had a filter in it dated 94. Seal the roof if it has not been done, I used Bus Kote. If your power steering assist cylinder right front leaks or starts leaking ? You can plug the lines to it and it will drive just fine. ( seated coach’s do not have these, MH shells only ) and remove the cylinder and have it rebuilt for a few hundred bucks by a good hydraulic shop. Prevost wanted $1,500.00 for a new one. Carry a spare relay timer for the shore/gen transfer switch. If you have to constantly correct the steering wheel , get a 3 axle alignment ( after getting new tires ) made a world of difference in mine. Has the generator bay been redone ? That old foam crumbles and can get in the windings and ruin the gen head. Just a few things off the top of my head that will come up on a 96 Liberty.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Howell
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Do you have a recommendation on a good water separator for the aux air system? I have to turn the breaker off for my aux air in the cold because it freezes. I am guessing water is getting into the line.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Smithville
    Posts
    326

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jgreen View Post
    Do you have a recommendation on a good water separator for the aux air system? I have to turn the breaker off for my aux air in the cold because it freezes. I am guessing water is getting into the line.
    Of course Norgren makes one but they are pricey. I think mine is a Milton with auto drain that will empty itself every time the air pressure gets down to a certain point. I put a clear rubber line from the drain to a small catch jar to monitor it. I will drill a hole and run it out the bottom some day. Put the separator in place of the spitter that liberty placed. I will find a picture of the spitter and post for you.
    Pneumatics 101 , DRAIN all 4 tanks back to front. 1 Wet tank 2 Primary 3 Secondary 4 Auxillary. Coach must be properly supported before getting under , BE SAFE. There are a lot of threads in the archives on this and every other system on your coach. Educate yourself when you have time and take notes. Use the search window and try different related key words. There is a lot of priceless information in the archives for a new owner. Only problem is that you have to suffer through a lot of BS and banter to find it. Or You can go to a coach service facility and have the pneumatic system serviced. If you do not know the last time the air dryer cartridge has been changed, it needs it anyway. You say that you have some leveling problems, Water in the system is the enemy. If you have not done so already , learn to do the brake safety test.
    E2777CAD-57BE-4485-AA71-C9FBD24ABF2A.jpg
    Last edited by GoneCrazy; 03-02-2019 at 07:40 AM.

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