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Thread: Newcomer to POG and 93 Prevost H3-40

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    19

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    I mean “It” won’t fire.

    D. (Delton) Eason, Jr.
    93 Prevost H3-40
    Colorado Springs, CO
    406 439 1323

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    2,896

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    Make sure there is power to the DDEC. On models just a couple years newer there is a circuit breaker that let's the engine turn over, but not start. Also, there may be in-line fuses to the DDEC, if it's directly wired to the chassis batteries, as most were.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    19

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    Strange issue: After Gil’srresponse, I checked the two forward electrical compartments for fuses and loose wires. I found a wire that was loose under the driver console underneath the shift console and reconnected. Here’s the issue: Why is the neutral light on the shifter control on when the 12 and 24 volt switches are turned off? It doesn’t go out until I disconnect the 12-volt battery disconnect wire. I know that there are a couple of things that are always on according to the H#-40 manual; however, I don’t think the Neutral shift light is one of them.

    Below is a pic of how the battery connections are pursuant to the H3-40 manual (with labeling).
    9D4A0A22-95B6-4FCB-A900-17CAACAB07F4.jpeg

    I had this issue before and moved one battery connection, but for the life of me, can’ tremember which one. I do know that once I reconnected that one wire to a different post, the bus started up without a problem.

    I traced each wire specifically and labeled it so I wouldn’t forget to what they are attached. But know, I am a a bit confused. It seems to me, especially when talking with my son, that the bus either isn’t wired to match the diagram. And the 12-volt disconnect should be connected to the positive pole on the battery furthest away from the bus, but I don’t have dash lights with that connection. Not to mention there is a little bit of spark, which I don’t think should be when no grounds are attache.

    To add more to my delimna, the parts manual shows me two battery wiring diagrams: one says “EFF-M-144” and the other “Prior M-144.” Can anyone tell me what that’s all about?

    Hopefully I haven’t asked too many questions in one sitting.

    I have the grounds and the 12-volt disconnect wire disconnected as I am finishing this note up.

    D. (Delton) Eason, Jr.
    93 Prevost H3-40
    Colorado Springs, CO
    406 439 1323

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    2,896

    Default

    I can't read the polarity labels on the batteries. If I'm guessing the polarity correctly, the connections are functional. I would not have but 12V disconnect on that post, but it will work. I would have put it on the post with the red jumper clamp.

    I don't see a small gauge wire on the VR- labelled post. Is that an inline fuse on the wire labelled VR+? If so, is it good.

    I need to pull your wiring diagram because I don't see the DDEC or equalizer wires.

    Yes, the ATEC, transmission computer, is normally wired directly to the battery, but I don't see it. In any case, the trans display should only be active with the key on.

    The wiring designated is effective and prior followed by the VIN, year code and last digits of the VIN.

    I need to pull your electrical drawing.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    19

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    The in-line fuse to the VR is good. The small gauge wire for the VR- is hiding underneath the black jumper cable.

    I am going to check the fuel level in the filters tomorrow. The PASS tech seems to think it’s a fuel problem. Need to find a fuel pump that I can connect to the fitting on the main filter housing.

    If nothing else, this is definitely a learning experience in diesels.

    D. (Delton) Eason, Jr.
    93 Prevost H3-40
    Colorado Springs, CO
    406 439 1323

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    2,896

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    Remove the air cleaner and spray some WD-40 into the intake and see if it fires. If so, yep it's fuel related.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    19

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    I know it has been a while since I last posted. I had to do some digging to figure out how to get some fuel running through the fuel line and found a website in which a Detroit 60 owner installed a 24-volt fuel pump in the line to run fuel through. After setting this up and running fuel (I have checked to see if I can hear anything from the fuel tank filler opening), I tried starting the bus and it will turn over but it will not continuously run. I let the pump run up to 20 minutes. I checked the valve on the fuel filter housing and fuel will come out of it if I depress it.

    In the meantime, I did some digging on the Prevost website, looking for wiring diagrams for the ignition switch and the batteries and am a bit concerned. Between two manuals for the 93 H3-40 and sibling (I think the XP?) and the wiring diagram from the website, I am not so sure about the proper battery connections.
    (For reference purposes: 1993 Prevost; Last 4 of VIN: 1369)
    This link shows the battery connections for the 93 Prevost: https://secure5.volvo.com/technicalp.../d060788pb.pdf

    Attached are two drawings from a manual showing the battery connections.

    336AF1B6-E94F-48B6-919D-FEFA2F599877.jpgFF35D345-E558-4844-B4D6-F7606A58B267.jpg

    Looking at the left drawing above (from the maintenance manual), I believe the two posts next to the dark spots are the (+) positive side of the battery. The other drawing is from the parts manual.

    Here is my concern. I have the batteries in the same position as they were when I first got the bus (as shown in the left drawing above and I have pictures with the batteries and all their acid-on-post luster) and I have posted a picture of the battery set-up previously in this post. The CONCERN: The battery setup in the link above shows the batteries with the chassis and rear junction box grounds closer to the bus body (I am surmising). The way it is currently setup, the chassis and rear junction box ground are further away from the body. Another way at a looking at it is that the setup I have the battery positions are switched. The last thing I want to do is blow something up becuase the battery connections are wrong (and prayerful, hopefully, I haven’t done that).

    Should I be concerned?

    If not, I guess I’m going to have to figure out the best way to get to the engine head and loosen the return line. And if that doesn’t work, I guess It’s having it towed to a mechanic.

    Also, is there anything electrically that would prevent the engine from running? Since things are near bullet proof when it comes to dying, I have this nagging little thought that I may have something wrong electrically.

    Thank you all for your assistance in this.

    D. (Delton) Eason, Jr.
    93 Prevost H3-40
    Colorado Springs, CO
    406 439 1323

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    2,896

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    Other than the added jumper between bank negative terminals, both illustrations are functionally the same.

    BTW, the VR labelled connections on your past drawing don't seem correct. Are you sure they are VR connections and not ATEC/DDEC connections? They are connected between negative and 12V. A VR would be connected to 24V, but it would not be necessary.

    If the engine computer isn't powered, the engine will not run. Is fuel being supplied? Connect your pump line to a reservoir of fuel to see if it's being used. I'm not sure about your engine. DDEC-III engines have a return line on the rear of the head (forward on the coach). There is also power to the injectors.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I chased the red and black wire for the VR. The black wire went to a ground post on the driver’s side and the red wire went to the item in the attached pic. I searched the name and model info and it came up as a regulator.
    2B578B9A-2198-473A-BFBE-BFA57E8B9733.jpeg
    These two wires are a twisted pair in a sleeve together.

    I will double-check the fuel pump when I return.

    I will also look for a wiring diagram so I can check power to the injectors and the computer.

    D. (Delton) Eason, Jr.
    93 Prevost H3-40
    Colorado Springs, CO
    406 439 1323

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    493

    Default

    If I read your post and to confirm .....it won't fire means you have engine rollover ...not starting ? In my world that tells me "lack of fuel" to injectors.

    I have a couple of ideas,

    Did you ever turn off the gate valves installed to keep fuel in lines while doing filter changing, thus loss of fuel prime ?

    Did you by chance move the safety toggle switch in engine compartment Prevost installs ? I'am aware moving this switch prevents engine roll over, for our conversation.

    Trying to help,

    AL
    Al
    2010 GMC Arcadia AWD
    3rd Marathon, 1-XL 2-H's

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