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Thread: Surge Protectors

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gil_J View Post
    Let us know what you think. BTW, it's not a replacement for your progressive device.
    Gil,
    Please elaborate ?

  2. #12
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    Rocky,

    The Hughes device does not protect from voltage levels that are out if range, like the PI device does.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gil_J View Post
    Rocky,

    The Hughes device does not protect from voltage levels that are out if range, like the PI device does.
    Gil,
    Are You talking about low voltage ? With it being a surge protector it should stop any high power spikes right ?

  4. #14
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    Surge suppressors absorb high voltage low duration spikes. When they do, they generally destroy the MOVs, which are the energy absorbing components.

    A surge protector can not guard against out of range voltages being passed through the device. In fact, surge protectors have no way of blocking power being passed through the device. They don't have a high current relay or contractor like devices that protect against high or low voltage.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gil_J View Post
    Surge suppressors absorb high voltage low duration spikes. When they do, they generally destroy the MOVs, which are the energy absorbing components.

    A surge protector can not guard against out of range voltages being passed through the device. In fact, surge protectors have no way of blocking power being passed through the device. They don't have a high current relay or contractor like devices that protect against high or low voltage.
    Hummmm , So I take it that the progressive does guard against high or low voltages passing thru to the coach then. Is this correct ? And since We are on this subject. Have You looked into the Hughes Autoformers ? What are Your thoughts on them ?

  6. #16
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    Rocky,

    Yes the higher end devices from both PI and TRC (both since acquired) have dedection circuits for high and low voltage. If either is triggered, power is remove from the coach until the voltage is back in range.

    The autotransformer could be invaluable depending on how you use your coach. If you frequent older parks, state campgrounds, and fair grounds, low voltage is fairly common. The autotransformer will dynamically increase the voltage. Just don't use a power management device in from of the autotransformer. The Hughes autotransformer doesn't appear to lower incoming voltage, so it can't protect from high voltage. Keep in mind high voltage is very rare.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  7. #17
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    Kerby
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    Having just been through episodes of high RV park voltage I can offer a bit of info here. Most home appliances are designed to work within a narrow band of assumed voltage and frequency since domestic power in most areas of NA is very stable. Voltage is normally assumed to be between 110 and 120 vac and frequency very close to 60hz. When those appliances are operated when voltage or frequency are outside these narrow ranges the appliance (or some of its internal components) may become hotter than the designers expected which could lead to failure or overheating to the point of catching on fire.

    it is not that all appliances will fail in all cases of low or high voltage or frequency, but some might. That is what the various power monitors or power management systems are supposed to do to protect the appliances inside our coaches.

    The simplest have inexpensive components which permanently fail when exposed to very high voltage like you experience in a power surge (very high voltage for a short duration). These are the components in the kind of power strips called “surge protectors” you probably have all around in your house. Once they fail, shutting off power, you either have to throw away the “surge protector” or replace those failed components. These components designed to fail when exposed to a power surge can be engineered to can absorb different levels of power surges before failing. The more they can absorb, the more expensive the “surge protector”. That is why the surge protectors that go between the RV park power post and our coach are generally more expensive than the simple “surge protector” you buy at a hardware store.

    Most of the power management devices that plug in between the RV power post and your coach will shut off power if the post voltage goes above or below a preset voltage level. Different manufacturers have different preset values, but most are in the range of 105 vac at the low side and 130 vac at the high side. Some will also shut off power if the post frequency differs from the expected 60hz by 3 to 5 hz high or low. They also have some level of surge protection built in.

    Some power management units, like the Hughes Autoformer, also attempt to Boost voltage when the post power goes below a preset level to keep the voltage entering your coach above a critical threshold before shutting off the power all together. They can only do so much, so work over a relatively small range at the low voltage end. Most of them do not do anything to try to reduce volatage if the RV post power goes high.

    Confused yet? Make it simple when you are deciding which device is right for you. The least expensive devices offer only surge protection. They offer a level of protection, but only against short duration very high power conditions like might be caused by things like lightning storms. The next more expensive devices offer both surge protection and will also shut off incoming power if the post power goes above or below preset levels. Some will warn if the polarity is wrong, or there is a ground or neutral fault. The more expensive units will do these things and will also try to boost voltage if RV post power goes low.

    Think of it it like you do buying insurance. Read the product descriptions carefully and decide how much protection of which kinds you are willing to pay for. I decided on the $300 to $400 units that offer both high levels of surge protection, automatic shut off when post power goes high or low and which warn of mis-wired RV park post power. I found the voltage boost devices that are in the $500 and up range did not offer enough additional value to me to justify the additional cost. I would not be at all comfortable with the less expensive surge protection only devices.

  8. #18
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    Jerry,

    What unit did you decide on?

    Thanks

  9. #19
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    Kerby
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    I use the TRC, now Southwire, 50 amp external plug in unit. I found a stainless steel shackle pad lock with a shackle large enough to go around the power cord. I use that with a chain around the power post to discourage theft. Seems to work well on both 50 and 30 amp power poles. It samples the incoming power for about 2 minutes before closing the internal relay to allow power into the coach. Actively shuts the power off if the incoming power goes out of range or looses neutral.

  10. #20
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    May 2018
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    Edmond
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    All,

    I am getting so confused. I have a 1998 Featherlight

    1) On my coach I have a reverse polarity breaker with warning light that comes on if there is an issue with the pole box
    2) I have a Surge Guard Model 44290 which shows if all is wired correctly and surge protection (green light shows if surge protection active)
    3) On Gils recommendation I have ordered the Hughs Watchdog

    My plans are to plug surge protector into 50 am plug at campground, plug the Hughs into the surge protector and then shore line into Hughs. Gil said in this thread the Hughes does not replace the. PI device. Do I need another PI device to make sure I am fully protected?

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