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Thread: Front wheel removal of 1998 Prevost XL

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Chicago
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    3,988

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    We bought a pair recently a Coustomer did that is, and I installed them in Kokomo in. The pair were a dead on match. Not the linings though. That stuff was seporatly sent. Had to install with new brass hardware that is how prevo chooses to do it.

    When u first put the hub back fill the hub with as much oil as u can before u put the outer bearing. Then get the first nut on. Rip it on as tight as u can turning the hub hitting it with a blunt hammer to seat everything. Then turn the nut back with the big axle nut socket and bar and feel till right at the point the nut frees up and then another inch AND STOP.

    Next Turn it by hand back to tight JUST AND I MEAN JUST tight when it bottoms out again against the bearing. Dont snug it JUST bottomed out stop right there. Then back off 1 flat spot on the nut and insert washer/key. Got it? Has to be right? Do it a few times to get the feel I'm trying to convey. Then put the outer jam nut on and rip it tight. U see what happens when u tighten the outer nut is your taking back about half the slop u put in that inner nut when u turned it back 1 flat spot. Ahhhh yes.

    Before putting the rims back on fill rearend very full and drop the jack on that hub as far as it will go and wait an hr or 2 to let oil migrate to the hub.

    Getting the hub set perfect is not something u can explain over a wire. Its a feel that u get after a great deal of repetition.

    When u take the other side apart do this. In fact before u reinstall the first one take the other side apart and do this. It will help u assure yourself they r both correct.

    After u pulled the axle and got the jam nut and washer\key off STOP THERE.

    Before doing anything with the inner nut grab it with your hand and see how far u can tighten it. BE GENTLE GO SLOW. If it was close u will be able to go approximately 1 flat spot of the nut till u feel it bottom out. Don't do any snugging just stop right as it hits you'll feel it if u go slow.

    If that's the case what I tell the novice is to put it where it was 1flat spot back and mark the top of the inner nut and count the exposed threads on the spindle. That way wen it goes back together u will have the confidence of knowing its correct.

    If u find it was too tight make it right if u had a real sloppy inner nut adjustment do it how I'm describing make it right.

    Before pulling the inner nut grab it by hand and turn it to tight to check it before removal and be able to index things for yourself going back together, that's the ticket.

    The amount of free I'm trying to help u get right is where I find hubs that I have disassembled and am sure have never been disassembled before and I've taken apart many such hubs and I always do this. That's where those inner nuts r set at the factory. 1 flat spot on the nut backed off from bottomed out and that would be without any snugging.

    The next rally i get to we will do one and everybody who wants can get a feel. We will find a hub that's never been apart. Or we will go find a leaker and fix it in the demonstration.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 11-01-2016 at 07:00 AM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Camino
    Posts
    52

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    Joe, thank you again for your extensive explanation on how to put the wheel back together. I sure appreciate all your time on this matter. I have not been able to work on the bus since last Friday, but I did get all the parts to start reassembly. Because the bus is leaning towards the passenger side and I am currently working on the drivers side, the rear axle lost about 3/4 gallon of oil. I knew I had to change brake shoes and the drum on that side also, but was unaware that the seal was also leaking. My question to you is the type and brand of gear oil I should use. I have no literature from Prevost about the bus. Tried to download some time ago without success, because it is no longer available.
    Ben

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

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    Ben,

    Here's what the owner's manual states:

    "Multigrade gear oil meeting MIL-L-2105-D:85W140 is recommended for use in drive axle.This lubricant performs well over a broad temperaturerange, providing good gear and bearingprotection in a variety of climates.If temperature drops below 10ºF (-12ºC), 80W90should be used, and below -15ºF (-26ºC), 75W90should be used (in extreme conditions or for betterperformance, full synthetic gear oil can beused)."

    (Click Here) for the operator's manual.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    3,988

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    If it were mine and I did not know what is in there I'd drain it and put synthetic. It is so much better. The trans fluid too if u r not sure about that either.

    Way mo better!

    I'd be surprised if that is not what is in the rear end now but if u don't know, u gotta do the dirty deed .
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Bradenton
    Posts
    317

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    Joe, could you please call me 941 779 5018 or txt me your number. Talked to you recently and didn't write your no. down and now it's no longer in my phone. Thanks. George Prentice
    Corey Grubb & George Prentice
    1999 H3-45 Vantare
    Will & Grace-fierce felines
    Cedar Hammock, FL.

    The road goes on forever
    and the party never ends

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Camino
    Posts
    52

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    Joe, I was unable to work on my bus because of other duties, but finally got going again two days ago.

    I finished all air bags and put new inner seals and drums on the drive axle. In the meantime I ordered new rotors for the font brakes from Prevost because they show some bad heat cracks. The cracks are long and go from side to side on the rotor.
    Today I started the removal of the rotor at the front. It took me 5 hours to get the bolts loose using my 3/4" impact wrench. It is an older one and has only 750 foot pounds of torque. I just order a new one with almost twice the power. Should have it some time next week. You were not kidding when you described the removal of the brake assembly being a real challenge. Had to tie a rope over the upper A-Arm to lower it to the floor. I removed the strange looking nut and rectangle washer from the hub assembly and thought I would be able to remove the bearing. Not so, I am unable to get it out. I am having a hard time understanding how to remove the bearing. It is the strangest thing I have ever seen. I know you said in your post to pull the hub. Are you doing this without removal of the bearing? If you could shed some light on this for me, it would be appreciated very much.
    Ben

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
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    I was wondering what happened to u.

    Is it a pinch nut? I bet it is and going together will even be more fun. It is imparitive on these hubs with pinch nuts to index them before loosening them because there is a 1\16 of a lip on the backside of the washer going back together that doesn't just line up. If u don't it WILL tighten down and really have that correct feel BUT will not be right and will work away and out of adjustment. This is a very less than preferable design just too easy to get wrong in too critical a location. Pier did this.

    On pinch nut spindles the nut when the entire hub assembly is correctly installed, that pinch nut is very close to flush u might see maybe 1 exposed thread of the spindle maybe not. With as many as I've done, knowing the goofy washer, I'll always still take a picture, index and make damn sure its right going back.

    If u got the pinch nut off and the spacer out and the caliper bracket with its 6 gargantuan bolts removed the rotor has to be jiggled vigorously to come. Once u pop the outer bearing it al come.

    If u can't post pictures u should take one of the pinch nut and both sides of the flat washer send them to me and I will post them and explain what's going on and how to reinstall it would be very helpful. Some quite experienced mechanics may never even encounter a pinch nut on a spindle in their entire career. Thats how uncommon. Then they complicate it further with the design of the washer, a design thing that's so slight, crazy design lol. Good stuff.

    Also, was the black plastic dust boot on the larger caliper slide pin trashed and the pin rusted or was that in tact?? Either way I have some tips on reassembling those calipers with the replacement slide pin kits that we should go over before u do.

    The sensor for the antilock is another thing u have to note going back together it can quite easily get knocked out of adjustment without knowing it when u have pulled the hub.

    Shoot me some pictures. 708-243-7871 this is my cell.

    Good to hear from u again. Proceed slowly everything your working on is quite critical. Its not something I'm passing over the interweb that I'm totally comfortable with going to someone i am unaware of their aptitude. I would assume u have the same thoughts about me, u should.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 12-10-2016 at 09:15 AM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    3,988

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    The way I get those 6 caliper bracket bolts off is this.

    I use a short 6point impact socket with a 3/4 in t bar that I slide a tight fitting cheater pipe over. Then depending on the specific location (some will loosen going up and that's when the floor jack works. Some loosen down then another bar and leverage works.)

    I either slide a floor jack under the cheater pipe and jack it loose for the ones that loosen up or use another long bar, horizontal to the cheater, with its end up against a housing member creating as much leverage as nessessary by pushing down on those that loosen that way.

    Do not be disappointed if your new tool is still insufficient to free them. It would not be the tool thats defective. May the force be with u.

    BE VERY VERY CARFUL WHEN USING CHEATER BARS.

    The bolt is still going to require a huge amount of force to get started loose and if any thing slips loose it the event of trying u can really hurt yourself bad in a whole variety of fashons. Make sure your noggin is nowhere in the line of fire.

    Maybe your new tool will get them I hope it does.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 12-10-2016 at 09:52 AM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    3,988

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    Ok the pinch nut.

    IMG_0319.jpg

    Before I go further I would like to find out if anyone has ever seen a spindle/axle nut on a auto or truck of this design. I have not. On some larger equipment or farm implement possibly but even there I have not.

    Someone school me here what other manufacturers and apparatus other than prevo incorporate this design.

    Pinch nuts attached to shafts I've seen, that doesn't apply. On a spindle nut on an axle is completely foreign to me. I love it. If they'd have lost the ridiculously sutle complication in design for the accompanying washer its a very clever idea IMHO

    They only did this on the very early IFS. First time I opened one up was 1000 miles from home in a gravel lot never forget it. 99 degrees no shade. Sawdust, Raleigh Durham.

    Repeating myself purposely this chassis is with different brakes every axle. Knor bremse steer axle, drum drive axle and Rockwell disc tag. I've also been told by a reliable source the steer axles with the pinch bolts r fired in England. There quite a few of them out there.

    There is still quite a bit of this thread to come, going back together thats the pickle.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 12-11-2016 at 10:42 AM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Camino
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Joe, thank you again for your input and phone call yesterday. After I talked to you, I went back to the project and within about five minutes I had the bearing out and the hub and rotor on the floor. At that time I also noticed (which I never noticed before) that the front brakes don't have the conventional slack adjusters. I found the adjustment srew on the caliper but can't figure out how the automatic adjustment works.
    I have not done any other work besides just taking the hub off. Today I need to work on my daughters new house and might get back to the bus some time in the middle of the week. Will keep you posted.
    Ben

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