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Thread: Front wheel removal of 1998 Prevost XL

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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
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    3,988

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    We bought a pair recently a Coustomer did that is, and I installed them in Kokomo in. The pair were a dead on match. Not the linings though. That stuff was seporatly sent. Had to install with new brass hardware that is how prevo chooses to do it.

    When u first put the hub back fill the hub with as much oil as u can before u put the outer bearing. Then get the first nut on. Rip it on as tight as u can turning the hub hitting it with a blunt hammer to seat everything. Then turn the nut back with the big axle nut socket and bar and feel till right at the point the nut frees up and then another inch AND STOP.

    Next Turn it by hand back to tight JUST AND I MEAN JUST tight when it bottoms out again against the bearing. Dont snug it JUST bottomed out stop right there. Then back off 1 flat spot on the nut and insert washer/key. Got it? Has to be right? Do it a few times to get the feel I'm trying to convey. Then put the outer jam nut on and rip it tight. U see what happens when u tighten the outer nut is your taking back about half the slop u put in that inner nut when u turned it back 1 flat spot. Ahhhh yes.

    Before putting the rims back on fill rearend very full and drop the jack on that hub as far as it will go and wait an hr or 2 to let oil migrate to the hub.

    Getting the hub set perfect is not something u can explain over a wire. Its a feel that u get after a great deal of repetition.

    When u take the other side apart do this. In fact before u reinstall the first one take the other side apart and do this. It will help u assure yourself they r both correct.

    After u pulled the axle and got the jam nut and washer\key off STOP THERE.

    Before doing anything with the inner nut grab it with your hand and see how far u can tighten it. BE GENTLE GO SLOW. If it was close u will be able to go approximately 1 flat spot of the nut till u feel it bottom out. Don't do any snugging just stop right as it hits you'll feel it if u go slow.

    If that's the case what I tell the novice is to put it where it was 1flat spot back and mark the top of the inner nut and count the exposed threads on the spindle. That way wen it goes back together u will have the confidence of knowing its correct.

    If u find it was too tight make it right if u had a real sloppy inner nut adjustment do it how I'm describing make it right.

    Before pulling the inner nut grab it by hand and turn it to tight to check it before removal and be able to index things for yourself going back together, that's the ticket.

    The amount of free I'm trying to help u get right is where I find hubs that I have disassembled and am sure have never been disassembled before and I've taken apart many such hubs and I always do this. That's where those inner nuts r set at the factory. 1 flat spot on the nut backed off from bottomed out and that would be without any snugging.

    The next rally i get to we will do one and everybody who wants can get a feel. We will find a hub that's never been apart. Or we will go find a leaker and fix it in the demonstration.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 11-01-2016 at 07:00 AM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

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