Don't you have more payload with all aluminum rims? Maybe you could get on the turnpike in class 4!
Don't you have more payload with all aluminum rims? Maybe you could get on the turnpike in class 4!
John : The picture of the wheel and valve stem looks almost like electrolosis set up between the different metals and eat it rather than rubbed it. I know that sounds strange or even impossible. Were dragging those ground strips for a reason other than knocking hell out of the toll takers.
Senior Member
Lew, You probably need to polish those inner wheels more to get over 95 mph.
Senior Member
Harry,
Since this was the first time I pulled my drives since I bought the coach I was surprised by a few things. First the valve stem extensions. I kicked myself for not pulling them immediately.
The second was the lack of corrosion. The rust you see is the cast hub. The wheels looked great. I have more damage to the aluminum wheels that mount on the front and tag.
I was also happy I did not break any studs. The studs that hold the inner drive wheels are prone to break. When that happens you have to disconnect all bus computers, and then weld a nut on the end of the stud so it can be removed. Over the past 16 or 17 years I have had to weld three of them and a tire shop had to do one.
Jon,
Euclid/Meritor makes a kit for wheel stud removal that eliminates the need to weld a nut to the broken stud.
Were all those studs broken on the same coach? Same timeframe? By the same people? Maybe it was a bad production run from the factory?
Don't forget the Never-Seez when you put it back together.
Yes Orren, It is simply a wheel nut and instead of threads its "rifled" on the inside. You beat it on the broken inner nut with a 2-pounder and then impact the broken inner nut off the stud. They also make what is called a CROWS FOOT that helps in removal of a broken stud/inner and outer nut when stuck on the outer rim.
Last edited by Joe Cannarozzi; 12-10-2006 at 11:58 AM.
Senior Member
You guys have a link for this neat stuff. Sounds like we should add to our Ace Bay.
mm
Mike, Ill just add it to the list
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This works when the stud has cracked off remains inside the inner nut and this all comes off still attatched to the outer wheel. The crows foot locks in to the next hole in the rim and holds the outer nut so you can take your impact or tourk multiplyer and turn the inner nut down.
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I cant seem to find the other tool that pounds on a broken inner nut to remove it from the stud. I can get this stuff for you when I go to replace my loss? Let me know.
Your tire guy can land these(thats pilot lingo
I was supprised to see the old style inner and outter nut set up on a 97. When did they change over?
In an effort not to confuse-I refer to this piece the inner-wheel nut. It is not the stud, it threads over the stud, securing the inner rim, and then the outer wheel nut threads on to it securing the outer rim. You will hear people refer to this as the old style.
The new style is much more conventional, one nut holds both rims.
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Last edited by Joe Cannarozzi; 12-10-2006 at 02:09 PM.
Senior Member
Orren,
The first time the "inner wheel nut" broke was at a tire shop. The ace of the place had the kit you talked about and he proceeded to waste a couple of hours of his employer's time because he couldn't get that sucker to work.
In the end he just welded a nut on it and zip, it came off.
The three I have broken were spread out over my 16 years of owning that coach, and I have a welder in my garage and after watching the crap the ace of the place went through I don't even mess around. I pull the computer connections, weld the nut on, and I'm done.
BTW....I know there are a bunch of folks out there greasing up their studs or putting on Never-Seez, (arguing about the merits of the copper type versus other types) but the guys that engineer wheels and specify torque values are always talking about dry thread torque. Since I read that all studs and nuts are to be clean and dry that's what I have been doing.
Last edited by Jon Wehrenberg; 12-10-2006 at 02:25 PM.
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