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Thread: Glendinning plug

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    thomasville,nc
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    1,209

    Default Glendinning plug

    I have a Glendinning cord reel and cord with 75 feet of cord,I plugged in on Wednesday to a 50 amp pedestal and in a few hours the breaker tripped,I reset the breaker and the plug was very hot so I ran the generator for an hour or so and plugged in again,and checked the plug with a IR thermometer and it was soon over 200 degrees.I replaced the entire cord and molded plug about 2 years ago because it was cracked,this time the plug looked good but there was something like tar that had run out of it.I decided to cut the cord and replace the plug which I did and the new one stays cool to the touch.I checked the old one with my ohm meter but I cannot find anything wrong.Has anyone else found a problem with the molded plugs?By the way I was pulling less than 40 amps per leg when the heating problem showed up.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    104

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    Sorry I don't have insight into exactly where the problem was, but I suspect it was resistance at the connections between the wire and spade lugs.

    I too have some cracks in my Glendinning plug. I ordered a replacement from them, but I have not yet installed it. It looks good and it will fit in the SS tube without a problem. They (Glendinning) charged $90.00 plus shipping for the plug. When it arrived, I found it to be a "Bryant" brand plug model 9452-ANPB. This Bryant plug is readily available for $30-40 elsewhere. Don't get me wrong, GD is a great company with a great line of products. I have, and will continue to, use them in both RV and boating. I just think their price was a little steep for a replacement item. I do think this plug is superior to what is easily available at Camping World, etc.

    GD will mold on a new sealed assembly if you send them your cord, or stop by their place in SC. However they told me it would take "a day or two" and not to stop in and expect to be on the road quickly.
    John & Janene Browder
    Knoxville, TN
    2008 Marathon H3-3S

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sealy, Texas (50 miles west of Houston on I-10)
    Posts
    836

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    Jack, I have a Glendenning cord and reel on my coach, and it has been trouble free. I did however have a problem on my previous coach which "WELDED" the plug to the pedistal, and I had to take a hack saw to the cord to be able to leave the park to get home. The result was found to be loose connections on the main buss panel inside my coach. Just a thought you may want to check on.


    Pete & EJ Petree
    2001 Prevost Featherlite Vantare
    2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4x4
    Sealy, Texas

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    thomasville,nc
    Posts
    1,209

    Default

    If I had a problem in the coach I would expect it to still be there,all I did was replace the plug and it is cool to the touch now.I purchased a plug from Lowes,because it was 5 PM with no where else to find one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Beverly Hills
    Posts
    4,652

    Default

    It could have been the pedestal's receptacle that was bad and simply transferring the heat to your plug. I changed the plug on my GD cord a week ago. The one that was on there was not looking too good. I replaced it with one of the yellow plugs with the handle that makes disconnecting a piece of cake. No more wiggling the plug. BTW, with the GD stop collar on and this new plug it does fit in the coach.

    Jack, pulling less than 40A a leg is a huge load. All air conditioners and hot water heater must have been on the same time the chargers were trying to charge well depleted batteries. That's well over 8,000 watts which can produce a lot of heat if there's much of any resistance in the plug or receptacle.


    Gil and Durlene
    2003 H-3 Hoffman Conversion

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    thomasville,nc
    Posts
    1,209

    Default

    I plugged into 2 pedestals to verify if one had a problem and that is how I determined that it was not the receptacle but the plug,I was actually pulling between 32-34 amps on the digital readout,on a 90 degree day it will take all 4 cruise air units running to cool the interior to 68-70,each unit will draw 13-14 amps and with the chargers the total is 32-34 per leg.I have always tried to stay in the less than 80% range which is 40 amps or less and that will assure that the breaker will not trip unless it is weak or there are loose wires in the pedestal.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    ON THE ROAD IN THE SOUTH
    Posts
    2,825

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    I am using a HUBBELL connector with screw type connections, no trouble.50A Hubbell.jpg

    JIM

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    thomasville,nc
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    Default

    Jim,I already decided that I would go to my local Square D/Hubbell supplier when I get home and get a quality plug,I have a large opening for the plug to come through so I don't think that will be a problem,I will use the one from Lowes as a spare.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    thomasville,nc
    Posts
    1,209

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    Jim,the number in the picture is 9451c,which is a straight plug I would prefer the 9452c which is a angled plug which will fit most pedestals better.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    3,988

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    Here's a glendenning on an H on a marathon and they put the plastic drum horizontal in that little compartment above the tag.

    20180305_185433.jpg

    20180305_185443.jpg

    The picture below shows what happens inside the drum overtime as things get twisted up wrong.

    20180305_185601.jpg

    Here's a picture inside that plastic barrel with the cord totally extended. This one knot you see as a result of me and another hand spending of great deal of time going in and out and twisting that cord and keeping it back twisted trying to turn those knots out. There was originally three of them all back-to-back in there. We gave up that last one ain't commin.

    You know how chords have a memory and even though this is a really good soft cord from glendenning once you've knotted it up like that you actually twist the inside wires inside the rubber outer Shield and it really has to be taken completely apart.

    20180305_185642.jpg

    20180305_185936.jpg

    Among other things, I have to pull all the spool valves off the back end of this bus and I'm going to move this out of the way to get at them. I'm going to unhook the power cord at the junction box here and I'm going to pull it all the way out of the bus. Then go lay in the sun tomorrow and see if I can relax it and I can untwist the outer shield on the inner wires and if I can get away with that and I like it I'm going to put it back together that way or I don't know I might have cut two or three feet off the back end of this thing so that it's got a fresh start or at least I will run it by the owner suggest it.

    This is just a guess now but I would have to assume that winding one of these cords into these plastic drums is going to work a lot better when the drum is sitting down not horizontal, it's got to be kind of tough to keep that cord trained to spool up correctly Time After Time like that, especially when the drum is mounted in there like this.

    Don't be expecting this accessory to be dragging that cord through the grass you're looking for trouble. These are heavy heavy cords. We are asking this thing to do a lot and on a good day.

    Anytime you're letting in cord you should be helping it in and you should be wiping it as you go with a paper towel or something a rag in your hand don't ever let dirt get in there. And I think it probably wouldn't hurt to run it all the way out periodically.
    Last edited by Joe Camper; 03-05-2018 at 08:28 PM.
    1990 Peterbuilt 377
    3406 B Caterpillar
    13 Speed Roadranger
    No Norgrens


    1 day on paper no machines

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