Changing front and rear clearance lights out for LEDs

[Reagan Sirmons]

In changing out the marker lights on the top of the front cab and on the top of the rear, there are a total of 14 lights (7 amber in front and 7 red in rear). As I read the potential amp draws of the LEDs I want to use to replace the normal bulbs of 'a '98, I see readings of 1/10 th amp per replacement light. These are very nice multiple LED lights. Does any one know the maximum draw per set of these replacement lights that can be used? Is the in-place wiring sufficient to handle the new draw down. It might even be less than the current draw down being experienced.
Thank you.
PRES

[joelselman]

I'm certain those lamps use less current than the std bulbs. I suspect 168 or 194 are the old bulb #'s if you want to check. Prevost did this same conversion on my front set several years ago and have had no issues; my lamps often stay on all night.

[garyde]

The Bus voltage is 12 volt to the lights. If each LED lamp is 1/10th of a Amp, that is 1.2 watts. Each of the existing lamps are probably 8 watts or so. As long as the lamps are 12 volt, your OK.

[Loc]

Reagan,

When I painted my XL I changed all the clearance and marker lights to LEDs. The bulbs pulled substantially less power but worked fine without any modification to the wiring. I also replaced the taillight stacks with LEDs without any modification and they worked fine as well. I did have to get number of new well buts to replace worn out parts. It is an easy change.

Merry Christmas.

Loc

[Coach Pro LLC]

although I am not an electron, the calculations above seem dead on to me.

However, if this is a PRE Multi-Plex coach from Prevost I think you may need to add a device to deal with the dramatic decrease in watts / amps from LEDs.

On a pre Multi Plex coach the turn signals and hazards ran through a standard automotive style relay (located under dash roughly left of steering column). This is a device about the size of a golf ball, silver cylinder, and gives the "click.....click.....click" noise you hear when the turn signals are on. That noise is the contactors going from position A to B and passing voltage to the lights.

This relay depends on amps across the circuit heating up an internal bi-metal contactor or armature and springing open (click) and as the metal cools off springing closed (click) and so on. Since LEDs carry basically no amps (a good thing) the relay will not get the same "reading" on the circuit and will not open close open close. The lights will light but not flash.

But there is a simple answer!

A company called HAMSTAR makes a solid state device for just this conversion. I do not recall the wiring, but it is intuitive and there should be a drawing if needed. The HAMSTAR device replaces the relay and is smallish, about the size of two decks of cards. As I recall there is signal in, signal out (load to new LEDs) and ground. I guess around 25 bucks.

LEDs are a great upgrade and look super sharp plus a safety benefit.

Best of luck and you might want to check out HAMSTAR on the web to see what they say.....

[Coach Pro LLC]

superbrightleds.com has converion kits for car auto to LED signals.....