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Thread: Wheel Lugs

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    ON THE ROAD IN THE SOUTH
    Posts
    2,825

    Lightbulb

    This past Qctober I had a three axle alignment, tie rod and steering rod ends R&R at Prevost Nashville. The process required the front wheels to be removed and re installed. The mechanic/technician asked me do I want my lug nuts tightened with a torque wrench or would an impact wrench be OK? Needles to say, I was impressed. I said "torque wrench of course". He even new the sequence of tightening!!

    Other work was performed in a similar manner. I will go back for work I am unable to perform myself.

    Words to ponder about the X-12, If you are feeling challenged physically, the tool is heavy in it's own right and one becomes easily fatigued just holding the tool in position and moving it from one nut to the other. This is especially true when removing and installing all wheels successively.

    JIM

    JIM

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    3,177

    Default

    Regarding Tire changes. Its probably a good idea to have a conversation with the company you are considering. Its hard to have a check list for everything you have someone work on, but it helps to be prepared. Tow Truck drivers and Tire companies are two you should watch out , and keep them on the defensive until you feel comfortable.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    497

    Default

    Jim, You made the right call with the torque wrench and breaker bar. I agree with Gary as a check list for the reinstallation should be discussed. Understanding out on the road an impact run up would be fine. Then once off the highway a recheck and proper torque. What kind of a tire shop would not have a breaker 450 bar with all the info available today ?

    FWIW dept. torque wrenches need to be checked often to assure they are working to specs. They do wear out and take a lot of abuse bouncing off the concrete daily.
    On shop owned tools this was important if you were only use the torque wrench as to installing the lug nuts. Breaker bars should be in every truck shop set at 450 lbs. Caring tire shops will usually run the lug nuts up tight, then rotate torque to 450lbs. At the check out you should be invited to recheck after 100 miles.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Nowhere
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Using the right torque wrench is the only way to make sure you don't under or over torque the nuts. We had an issue with some trailers that kept having stud failures on the road. We found that one of our shops was using a torque stick with an extension, and that the values were quite a bit lower than specified. The people involved knew better, but thought they were saving so much time that it was worth it. After a couple of tires and rims left some trailers, it was proven to them that they were wrong!! We spent more money on new wrenches and calibration, but our stud problems pretty much went away.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Mt Baldy, CA. and Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    111

    Default Low cost torque multiplier

    Jon's torque multiplier is definitely the top of the line. Around a year ago I decided to see if I could find one for a better price or a cheap one that would work. I succeeded in finding a cheap one on ebay that actually has a greater torque multiplier. It cost around $175 including shipping. Comes in a plastic case with several impact sockets to fit various lug nuts. Just do a search on ebay, the same guy is still selling them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by johnklopp; 12-24-2011 at 12:42 AM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    LaBelle
    Posts
    474

    Default

    Was the problem with the torque stick the extension or was the torque stick not accurate? I have a 450 lb TS but do not use an extension. Thanks

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Nowhere
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Denny View Post
    Was the problem with the torque stick the extension or was the torque stick not accurate? I have a 450 lb TS but do not use an extension. Thanks
    I think it was a combination. The gun they were using had a handle that got in the way, so they put the extension on to get around that problem. The torque stick they were using also was not doing it's job alone, so we got rid of it. Some sticks are close, but the wrench is still the best.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    anytown
    Posts
    8,908

    Default

    A word of caution that was told to me many years ago by the owner of the company that sells the X-12.

    He suggested when using a torque wrench with the X-12 to use 50 ft. lbs as the setting on the torque wrench. To my way of thinking that makes the actual torque 600 ft. lbs. because 50 X 12 is 600. He said the extra is to compensate for friction losses through the torque converter. I don't know if he was correct, or if he was blowing smoke, but that is what I have used and so far have never cracked a wheel or damaged one due to the lug nuts scoring the chamfer. But I also have never been able to run a torque test after tightening with the X-12. So maybe 40 ft. llbs (480 ft. lbs at the nut) may be OK or maybe not. Don't know.

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