Water Leaks

[Ben]

I've just spend a week in Oregon where it's been very rainy. I've noticed some water leaking into the bus... mainly by the drivers side window and above the front door (and a little in the middle between the two windshields). Also, I little on the side of the bus between the second and third side window (not around the window itself, but about .5" below it).

I talked to Troy of Liberty and he said it's most likely the marker lights near the roofline and that I should use caulking to seal up the screw holes and other areas and that it should be done once I year (nice that they didn't tell me that when I bought it). He didn't think it was from the entry light that's over the door (even though I mentioned that the gasket was falling apart)... I think he thought that was sealed from behind.

The problem is that it's been raining here everyday for at least half the day so there hasn't been time to inspect, seal and let the stuff dry.

It looks like I'm going to be able to park in a warehouse for 24 hours tomorrow, which should allow me time to seal it up and let it dry before coming out into the rain again. I just thought I'd ask you guys to see if you've run into this and if there is anything special to look for or other areas to think about sealing up.

Also, I've been told that there is supposed to be a drain that allows water to drain from the tracks of the drivers side window. Does anyone know where it is and how I could clear it out, since it doesn't seem to be working.

This sounds like a maintance item that should be thought of before anyone heads into the rainy Pacific Northwest.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Ben, our bus is conciderably older than yours, BUT, our drivers window was terrible. I replaced the black fuzz on the top and bottom of the window that slides. I also drilled a small hole at the bottom rear of the outer rail for the track on the outside. I couldnt find the drain either, this worked very good.

I think the converter pulls the windshields to get those fridges in, mabye if you complain enough they might reinstall properly. We put high quality silicone to all our upper marker lights, side, front and rear, very early on. I have already done MAJOR reconstruction do to water getting in at these points on a few previous campers. The factory uses like a plumbers putty and it dries out.

My Bus 049.jpg

My Bus 052.jpg

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Ben,

You are not the first and won't be the last to have water where you describe. Troy is correct to an extent. Get a good quality RTV sealant and once you apply it it will last a very long time.

I sealed across the top of my marker lights, not the screw holes. I just layed a small bead across the top and down the side about 1/2" that I wiped with a fingertip and it is invisible, but has sealed the lights.

On the old coach I had to seal the strip that goes across the top of the windshields at the bottom of the fibreglass cap. I just put a bead the full width.

I also had leaks at the antennas and they dripped inside into the living room. If you have the sealer, just reseal those areas while you are at it.

To reseal side windows or the windshields you should pull the retaining strip, flex the seal away from the glass and apply sealer, and then re-install the retainer strip. Then you can clean up the excess sealer.

The light over the door not only needs to be sealed where the base contacts the coach, but it needs a slight bead between the lens and the base. Do not stop at the door, because if that is leaking so are the others.

For the leak on the side of the bus, consider it may be anything from a cargo light, to a clearance light or an awning attach point. That will require detective work.

[MangoMike]

Jon,
So we don't buy the wrong stuff can you detail the RTV sealant?

MM

[Ben]

What is RTV? Is that the same as just plain old clear caulking or silicone?

Thanks for the suggestions... I'll get working on it tomorrow... that's when I get 24 hours of cover to seal things up and let it dry.

[Orren Zook]

The industry definition of 'RTV' is: Room Temperature Vulcanizing, ie. air dries or hardens without a heat source. Most any silicone sealant falls in catagory.

[Ben]

Jon,

How much time and skill are required to pull and re-install the retaining strip for the windshield?

The gaskets for the entry light is cracked and has an OK sized gap in one area... I've been told that you have to buy the entire light assembly from GM in order to replace the gasket. Does anyone know how much they cost, how easy they are to find and possibly a part #?

[garyde]

Try to get Marine grade Silicon for sealing.

[Ben]

Joe,

Thanks for the shot of your custom drain hole. I'll have to either find the one that's supposedly there, or copy your idea.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Ben, no real skill is required to pull the locking cord on the windows and re-installing it just takes time and a flat bladed screw driver or something else to force it back into place.

Orren and Gary are right relative to the sealant. Just avoid the cheap stuff and get a good quality.

Ben, those lights are a GM part, and I think a Chevy dealer can get gaskets. It is just easier to seal them.