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Thread: Installing GUEST 2611A starting batteries charger

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    22

    Default Installing GUEST 2611A starting batteries charger

    I know I saw how to hook up the charger ,but I cant find now.Need help finding the diagrahm. THANKS BILL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC (next door to Pinehurst)
    Posts
    546

    Default Wiring Schematic

    Bill, contact Tom Chilcote or Mike Anderson. They both have diagrams for this installation. I can't find my file from Tom. I did the installation about three years ago. Well worth it. Be very careful not to over tighten the brass wiring posts. They do break in a manner that no repair is possible, only a new replacement unit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Peabody, MA
    Posts
    112

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    104

    Default

    My OE "Magnatek" charger has made, at times, a terrible sound as if the fan is grinding on the case. It does not make the noise now, but I think the fan may have died. So it is time for a new charger. I was planning on the Guest 2611A so many folks have used, but as I was looking at the Guest site, and saw # 2620A, what appears to be a 20 Amp version in the same line of chargers. It seems if one was in a dead chassis battery situation, this charger could get the batteries up to starting voltage quite a bit sooner than a 10 amp charger. It draws a maximum of 3.75 amps AC.

    Is this a reasonable assumption? Is there a reason to NOT get the 20 Amp version?

    Thanks!
    John & Janene Browder
    Knoxville, TN
    2008 Marathon H3-3S

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    anytown
    Posts
    8,908

    Default

    In a dead battery situation you do not need a chassis battery charger for two reasons. If the failure of the battery to hold a charge is an internal short, it is unlikely they will hold enough of a charge to start the coach.

    If you had concerns about that a better solution might be to access your house batteries now, before you have an issue and add cable and posts to create a point to jump the chassis batteries. Easier and quicker with good jumper cables.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    104

    Default

    The situation that caused me to post today is I accidentally left the chassis battery with on for about two weeks, and today I found my chassis batts dead. I know, mea culpa, but i happens. My Magnatek was able to bring them back up in and hour... I still do not trust it.

    On my Royale, I had the same charger. A wise person suggested I put a mechanical timer on the charger, setting it to run 2 hours a day. Worked perfectly for years. I like the idea of a smart charger that will not overcharge or boil the batteries. I plan to leave it on 24/7. This is the system used on big boats with wet and gel batteries. This system has worked great for me for years.

    Seems like it should work on a bus as well.

    I do have jump start terminals, but today, in my bus garage, there would have been no way to get another vehicle close enough to jump. Also, in a scenario when chassis batts are down accidentally (let's say the wife leaves the key and lights on over night), wake up with a deal battery in a remote RV park. You want to leave, no one to jump, I don't want to wait hours for a charge... seems like 20 amps is better than 10. Right?
    John & Janene Browder
    Knoxville, TN
    2008 Marathon H3-3S

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jasper
    Posts
    3,775

    Default

    John,

    I had a Schauer Charger in my Liberty that Brian installed, it was 3 stage and would give you the power to start in short order. I don't remember the model number and here's the webiste: http://www.battery-chargers.com/chgrpic.htm

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