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Thread: Chassis Battery Charging

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Harrison
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    623

    Default Chassis Battery Charging

    Although I seem to have most of my "Phantom" drains off my Chassis Batteries, I have a small 24vdc charger (Battery Tender) installed. It is hooked up correctly and is doing a great job. That being said, I have not as of yet hardwired it to the bus, and just plug it into an extension cord if I am parked for any period of time. I have been told that to connect to the small box that provides for my Block heater is the easiest way to do so. But, that would cause me to have power to my block heater all the time which I don't think I want. I would prefer to have a way to control the power for both the BH and Charger from the cockpit. Any thoughts without a real major "project"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Boerne, Texas
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rahangman View Post
    Although I seem to have most of my "Phantom" drains off my Chassis Batteries, I have a small 24vdc charger (Battery Tender) installed. It is hooked up correctly and is doing a great job. That being said, I have not as of yet hardwired it to the bus, and just plug it into an extension cord if I am parked for any period of time. I have been told that to connect to the small box that provides for my Block heater is the easiest way to do so. But, that would cause me to have power to my block heater all the time which I don't think I want. I would prefer to have a way to control the power for both the BH and Charger from the cockpit. Any thoughts without a real major "project"
    Well, the BH (and the charger) would only be powered if you were plugged in or running the genset.. If you don't mind an either/or situation, you could put in a DPDT switch that would be manually switched in the compartment you choose outside, if you cannot reasonably/practically put it inside somewhere. That's one way that would not require finding spares or fishing wire through, presuming a/the breaker is appropriate for either.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jasper
    Posts
    3,775

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    Roger,

    Some of the early buses did not have the block heater hard wired, it was just a plug that was behind the door where you fill the oil reservoir and could be unplugged from the 120v receptacle. If that's the case, just plug your charger into that receptacle and control it with whatever set up CC used to turn on the block heater, either a button or a breaker in the 120v panel. If you need the block heater, just reverse the process and then change it back.

    If the block heater is hard wired, you could put in a switch like Ken suggested.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Harrison
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    Thanx for both of those ideas. I will have to wait till Thursday to get to the bus, it is in Joplin getting a Radiator Re-coring. Will let you all know how I go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    anytown
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    Ken and Truk both gave good advice. What concerns me is the fact there may be phantom loads. Actually and more precisely phantom loads that do not go away when the main switches for the chassis are turned off.

    A good set of batteries needs no charging for at a minimum 2 months. If with the main switches off there are still battery loads I would be all over that coach until I found them because it is probable they are not provided with circuit protection. Rather than relying on a small chanrger to maintain batteries, I would instead recommend a permanent installation of a good three stage charger such as the Guest charger that not only can be used to maintain the batteries, but can also be used to give them a three stage charge if and when they need it. And I would only power the charger after a couple of months to top off the batteries.

    The real question is what are the phantom loads.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    65

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    Rodger: I think you will find that there is a single 120volt outlet in a weatherproof box in the battery compartment just under the aircleaner and above the webasto, maybe a little forward of the Webasto. The block heater is plugged in there, with the cord extending out through an opening in the cover. At least that's the way my 1990 CC is set up. Power to that outlet is controlled by the switch marked Block Heat on the overhead panel to the left of the driver seat. As noted, it only has power when you are plugged in or gen is running and that switch is on. I like this setup for just the type of use you want. I often use this outlet for patio lights, which are then easily controlled from the dash and don't go through the inverter. Plus, if there was ever a reason to do so, you could plug in the block heater without plugging in the bus. At least where I am located, I seldom use the block heater anyway. It is either plenty warm or we are up skiing and running the webasto for heat, so don't need it. Even for a cold start at home, the Webasto will warm the engine much faster than the block heater. I think the only time I ever used it was once when the Webasto conked out during a ski trip.

    Do you throw the chassis battery disconnects when you are parked? I do if parking for over a week. I have not had any problem with my start batteries getting discharged. Maybe that would solve your problem.

    Good luck.

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