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Thread: Water Heater Replacement - Work in Progress

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jasper
    Posts
    3,775

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    Here's the finished product. Total cost including new copper fittings and hardware, $840.00. The new heaters vs the old are somewhat plumbed different, so re-routing the copper was required.

    IMG_3355_1..JPG

    If anyone wants a sand filter that Liberty installs, just pay the shipping and you can have it.

    IMG_3357_1..JPG
    IMG_3356_1..JPG

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bristol, Tn
    Posts
    1,647

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    Looks "Professional"- Looks like a great job. No more "Busless" Trips for the Trukster.
    Roger that!
    2008 Liberty DS XL2
    2023 Denali Ultimate
    My 6th Prevost

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Port St. Lucie, FL
    Posts
    1,745

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    Great job!

    Only thing left is to finish polishing that copper....

  4. #14
    jelmore Guest

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    Tom, I think my tank just got the same leak that yours had. Unfortunately, we're in the bus all the time so I don't have a shop to work out of. My symptoms ... water pump ran every two minutes. Water bay is wet inside. Turned off the water-in valve at the water heater. Water pump works normally. The copper is beyond my skill set so I'll have to find someone. Some questions: Does the fresh water tank have to come out? When you disconnect the copper from the coolant in and out lines, what then? Anything else? This looks huge.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Northville, MI
    Posts
    127

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    We replaced our Raritan water heater in about 4 hours while at Pelican Lake. I had a couple of helpers who were courageous and we did not remove the water tank. We did no soldering, used the push on fittings for the heat exchange tubing and all other fittings were absolute match ups with the old tank.
    The Raritan people in Ft Lauderdale were easy to deal with and provided the return customer discount bringing the cost of the tank down to about $780. We replaced a couple of hose clamps and bought the push on fittings so the total hardware cost was around $810. The courageous helpers cost is up to you, perhaps some amber fluids will be enough.
    Now that the heater is new and tight, I have noticed a slight leak in the Groco water pump seal. Anyone know a recommended parts place for these seals?

  6. #16
    jelmore Guest

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    Thanks Chuck. Hope my XL is as easy as your H3. I found a marine service company that had the right heater in stock, plus a tech that wanted to work on Saturday. The perfect combination for spending a lot more than you did.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    anytown
    Posts
    8,908

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    Beware...Chuck has an H3 and I think his installation may not require the holding tank to come out. But not to worry. The holding tank on an XL comes out pretty quick and with it out access for removal and replacement of the tank is very easy.

  8. #18
    jelmore Guest

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    Jon, you make everything sound easy.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jasper
    Posts
    3,775

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    Hi Jim,

    Hope you and Linda are doing well, despite the water heater!

    First, call Raritan, they will give you a 25% discount on the heater if you give them the model and serial number of your old unit. There is no way the heater would come out of mine without removing the tank. The tank is not a bad job to remove, 4 hoses and the tank level sensors and out it comes. I did have to remove part of my shower PVC drain pipe, but that was easy since it's just joined with hose clamps. I could now have it out in about 1/2 hour.

    The coolant lines should have shut-offs on them coming out of the cross member inside the bay. I'm too concerned about leaks, so new copper and solder was a must for me. I also replaced all the fresh water shut-off valves, they all had a little rust indicating some leakage at the packing nut. You won't lose much coolant, I drained out about 1/2 quart from the heater and lines. Your probably much better off than I was because of your bus age and the new heater may match up perfect with the old one. Be sure to mark the in/out coolant lines, for some reason Raritan says they have to be correct, but I have my doubts. It's just a loop inside the heater with no restrictions, so it shouldn't really matter. I think Jon agree's with me on that one.

    I also had to change out the cooper water lines and drains because the new heater was just too far out of alignment from the original. I had no choice, if Brian saw old nasty cooper in the pictures, I would be in trouble!

    If you need some moral support, don't be afraid to call me at 770-634-7530.

    IMG_3361_1..JPG
    Almost done....

  10. #20
    jelmore Guest

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    Tom, yours looks so neat and tidy. I don't think the Headhunter pump in mine is Liberty original. I think the previous owner's truck guy installed it. It works, but it is a really ugly install. Picture attached. Maybe the marine tech coming by can rework it all. I hope I'm not in trouble on this one.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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