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Thread: Dirty Job But Somebody has to do it!

  1. #11
    Joe Cannarozzi Guest

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    Make sure you get some help retightning, the axle nut sockets tend to fit a little sloppy. And don't be ashamed to set the outer locking nuts with a hammer and chissle to MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT.

    Be carful, have fun.

  2. #12
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    Dale...here's the disclaimer...my logs went with my 87 coach so I don't know which went where so I am giving you a best guess. The numbers are correct.

    Drive: Chicago Rawhide 48690 Steer and Tag: Chicago Rawhide 40086

    Seal under the hub nut cover on the steer and tag: Stemco 3060. (Here is another disclaimer...there are two sizes. I think that one is right, but if not try Stemco 3024 which I think is for buses with disk brakes.)

    If any of this is wrong post it so someone reading the posts in the future gets the correct numbers.

  3. #13
    Orren Zook Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by dalej View Post
    Jon, that would help since I can't read the info on the seal. I have them out on the tag and was going to take it in tomorrow morning. They might be able to measure it.

    Is the seal for the sight gauge cap easy to get?

    I'm waiting to do the drive axle after the tag, just thought it would be better.
    Dale, the part numbers on C/R seals are found on the oil side of the seal - nearest the bearings. You should be able to determine what you are using from the inner/outer bearing numbers too. You can buy new 6 bolt Stemco type caps with a gasket and bolts for about $6.50. It's more trouble than it's worth to try to change the window in those caps.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Dale,

    I showed Nancy the picture of Jan buffing, no good, she draws the line at drying and wiping the stainless with vinegar and water.

  5. #15
    dalej Guest

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    Thanks guys for the info, I'll take it to the NAPA man in the morning.

    I looked on the oil side of the seal and it says....CR 40086
    Last edited by dalej; 03-25-2007 at 08:46 PM.

  6. #16
    Joe Cannarozzi Guest

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    Dale

    When was the last time the rear-end was drained, 100000? Thats when it due. I run full Synthetic everyware I can, lawnmower and EVERYTHING.

    Good Stuff.

    The oil cavities on the tag and steer axle hubs are relatively small and make prime candidates for synthetic lube.

  7. #17
    dalej Guest

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    Joe the bus has 190,000 on it now and I'm the first to touch these seals. Don't scold me since I can plead... I didn't know

    I think its a good idea to do all the oil too. Do I just ask for synthetic oil for a drive axle?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    ON THE ROAD IN THE SOUTH
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    Thumbs up Synthetic Is Good

    Joe Cannarozzi,Dale
    I run full Synthetic everywhere I can, lawnmower and EVERYTHING.

    Good Stuff.

    I agree Joe, Synthetic Wherever You Can! JIM

  9. #19
    Orren Zook Guest

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    Dale,

    CR Scotseals are available in two different styles... one is called classic and requires a seal driver for installation and a plus type that does not use a special tool to install it in the hub. Most seal failures are caused by improper installation. Around here the plus version costs an extra $2 a seal, and you won't need two or three different tools to install the tag, drive and front wheel seals.

  10. #20
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    This may bring some criticism, but I was able to install all my seals using a wide board that completely covered the seal and by careful tapping with a hammer. So far I have not had any failures of seals I installed that way.

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