Dirty Job But Somebody has to do it!

[Joe Cannarozzi]

The way your removing the hubs is the hardest in terms of weight.

When I replaced a seal on the drive axle I did not remove the tires seperatly. I simply pulled the axle and then jacked the rear end housing so the tires were right at the point of leaving the ground, then just slid everything off on a smooth slippery piece of metal. I usually get stuck with no help and by doing it this way I had to lift nothing.

Removing it as you are with the brake drum still attatched to the hub makes for a very heavy assembly.

Here, once again, prevo adds another step to a process that in most other cases does not exzist. The brake drums are screwed to the hubs with large flat head tapered screws. I might add that they are also not easy to loosten and or remove. I'll bet you tried but couldn't.

It will not be easy for you to reinstall with the new seal with the drum still attatched to the hub. To be safe you might get some help lifting that back up so as not to nick that new seal going back in. Either that or get those tapered flat head screws loose and out and seperate the drum from the hub.

OOPS, sorry, better late than never.

[dalej]

I haven't had to nor want to try and lift this assembly, as the photos shows I'm using a floor jack to lift and carry the assembly away to work on.

I was going to ask if anyone has had to pay someone to replace the seals. Jan says that the money I haved saved on labor, she could spend on cloths! She wants a dollar amount!

[garyde]

Hi Dale. You are very industrious. I would not have attempted this project on my own. Take more pictures! Gary

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Dale

How about all that room to get at the trans and the back side of the 8-V with those tires out of there, gotta love that.

What do the drums look like? Are you going to put new shoes and spring kits on? What about the radius rod bushings, are the collers on them squishing out or bits breaking off? Would love to be there to help out.

I never did get those screws out of our hubs. I wonder what would happen it a guy put it back togeather without them? The lug nuts with tight tires hold all that togeather on every other large hub assembly I have ever taken apart, Jon?

Dale I know your pollishing but you might concider pulling the other side without removing the tires, just the axle the jam nuts and outer bearing. I suppose it will depend on how this side goes back togeather. A block under the frame and a jack under the axle raising it just enough to clear the ground, mabye not even but right at that point, with a piece of something smooth and oiled up underneeth. I'm out all day but call if you have a question 708 243 7871

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

dalej;I haven't had to nor want to try and lift this assembly, as the photos shows I'm using a floor jack to lift and carry the assembly away to work on.

I was going to ask if anyone has had to pay someone to replace the seals. Jan says that the money I have saved on labor, she could spend on cloths! She wants a dollar amount!

Dale, I give you a lot of credit, tackling the job enough in advance of POG. At least you don't have the pressure to finish in a weekend. You still have 20 days or so to go. Don't give up yet. Do a little each day and you won't get hurt or frustrated.
You tell Jan the money saved is for your clothes and Chiropractic tune-ups. JIM

[dalej]

Joe....what is all this?

***What do the drums look like? Are you going to put new shoes and spring kits on? What about the radius rod bushings, are the collers on them squishing out or bits breaking off?


I just want to get in, change the seals and get out!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Dale,

Joe is right. But...You knew that was coming didn't you....the best way is to use one of those carriers designed to support the wheels and just roll it stright back off the spindle. Joes method works, but I chickened out. In order to aslide that much weight off the spindle and then straight back on when the seal is replaced is a real challenge so I opted to just break everything down. Like you I used a floor jack and the little extra time spent was worthwhile.

To address the investment in time, you will do all the learning on the first one. After that I would guess it is about 1.5 hours each and that involves some time to point out where Jan missed a few spots.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Dale

If youv'e gotten the impression I'm trying to make more work for you, I am.
But if your planning on keeping it you'll be saving time and money later, you are familiar with the routine I am sure. If your drums are nice and true you could put new shoes and spring kits on that litterally in minutes.

I didn't mention that when you pull your tag on the passanger side that will all but expose your Bendix Air Dryer. The service interval on that is 2 years. Its a snap, with the wheel gone, to disconnect a couple of air lines, a couple of wires and loosten 2 mounting brackets. Under 200 for a rebuilt with an exchange.

To remove it never having done it before, 1 hour, max. Same going back in.

Just a thought.

[dalej]

I serviced the air dryier four or five years ago, do you think when you only put 10,000 miles on a year you should still change them every 2 years? I did think about it since its right there.

I have to get a big pan or a kids plastic pool so I can clean all the parts without getting the shop floor all oily. I will inspect all the other parts then.

PS I was going to buy silver spray paint to repaint the drums in the event Jon wants to inspect!