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Thread: Why to have your top end looked at!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    181

    Default 140,000

    Mines going in soon, dropping a valve due to a bad rocker is an expensive problem.

    The DD shop in Vegas say's they can due my Royale without going into the coach? Does this sound correct ? I had them replace a starter and I was impressed with the mechanic and shop.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    anytown
    Posts
    8,908

    Default

    I hope every POG member is not on the phone making appointments with their DD folks.

    Kevin's problem was serious and did require attention. But I would doubt that the problem is across the board. Detroit engines are used in about 30 to 35% of the trucks out there and if the problem is as widespread as this group seems to be making it it would not be a dirty little secret.

    That problem does not occur gradually over time. Trust me.

    When damage of that nature begins it starts very small, and its progress to the level shown and beyond that happens very fast, such as between oil changes. Once it begins, no matter how small the problem is when first detected it requires the exact same repair. You cannot just remove a bad roller or repolish a cam lobe and be done.

    I may have the problem right now. I may not have the problem. Regardless of which I am going to drive my bus until something tells me I have a problem. It may be a loss of power, or it may be metal detected in my oil filters. But in the meantime the sky is not falling.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Boerne, Texas
    Posts
    401

    Default

    I agree with Jon. One method to check on this is an oil sample lab test. Any authorized diesel shop will have the sample containers, which are then mailed to the labs, pre-labeled. Pretty simple to do. It should be readily determined if this sort of problem has begun, along with most other issues than can occur such as blow-by from worn piston rings, coolant leaking into the crankcase from above, fuel, etc. I would send one of the filters along to the same place if they will take it (I don't know if this can be done).

    And as Jon says, and DD either claims or suggests, there are an awful lot of DDs on the road. There is a reason. There have been no engines produced by anyone that have never suffered a failure/problem, however rare, I am positive, and certainly not with the numbers that DD, Cat, Cummins, and many others have produced.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    3,177

    Default

    I spoke with Gem Services in Ventura(Detroit Dealer) regarding the rockers and cams. He confirmed the RV Engines need to be run more often, once a month, 15 miles or so. Also, Dave said some scratching is tolerable. No special oils or treatment will avert or help.
    He also recommended having it looked at at 100,000 miles. According to them, if you hear something, it's probably too late .
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Forest
    Posts
    2,486

    Default

    That's good to know. I guess I'm going to have to get out to the storage site more often, and take the coach for a ride every few weeks.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    177

    Default

    I have to leave the bus stored inside (plugged in) for up to two months in the winter without takeing it outside and getting the engine up to operating temperature.

    Although I am unable to drive it during this time I could have someone start it once a week and get the oil pressure up and then shut down.

    Would it be better to start the coach up every week for a couple of minutes and then shut down without getting the engine to operating temperature or would that be more harm than waiting a couple of months to drive it?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Indian Hills
    Posts
    1,136

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    Taking the coach out for a spin every couple of weeks, doesn't sound like a hardship to me.
    Last edited by Coloradobus; 12-06-2009 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Can't figure out how to insert a photos from My Pictures
    Jim and Chris
    2001 Featherlite Vogue XLV 2 slide with Rivets-current coach, 1999 shell
    Previous 22 years,
    We have owned every kind of Prevost shell but an H3-40

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Anaheim
    Posts
    566

    Default

    I took the bus out yesterday for a test spin to make sure the top end made it OK after the surgery. I found a 6% grade for 2 miles on a local toll road, perfect test for both the pull going up and the jakes going down. All seems to be good and the power and smooth feel was also good. And a very good reason to go for a Saturday morning spin around the neighborhood!
    I am no expert but my opinion is just starting the motor, even if you let it get to operating temp, which is almost impossible without driving is not a good thing.
    What is better, I can't answer that question!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    507

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by James View Post
    I have to leave the bus stored inside (plugged in) for up to two months in the winter without takeing it outside and getting the engine up to operating temperature.
    James, take a look at your Detroit Diesel Series-60 Users Manual. It's pretty clear on what should be done if you intend on storing your bus for up to 30 days, and what you should do if storing for longer than 30 days.

    The short answer is to drain you crankcase oil, fill her up, and run the motor for 2 minutes at fast idle, then shut her down. This is good for 30 days. Beyound 30 DD has more extensive directions. IMHO, dumping the oil as described and adding a new set of oil filters should get you to 60 days. I wonder if it's the acids in the used oils along with inactivity which might be contributing to the pitting and scuffing some are seeing?

    David Brady
    '02 Blue Bird Wanderlodge LXi,
    Series 60 Equipped,
    Asheville, NC

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    ON THE ROAD IN THE SOUTH
    Posts
    2,825

    Lightbulb

    James, don't run the bus without getting it to operating temperature before shut down, period!

    If you must do something to minimize the risk of the premature wear Kevin experienced, assuming you don't already have it, switch your engine over to synthetic oil. It has several benefits over mineral oil and will possibly retard the drying of the oil from the moving parts during extended periods of non use.
    It has been said about synthetic oil, that engines running with synthetic oil, have had failures in their oil supply and lost all their oil pressure and were still driven to safety only to have no ill effects when that problem was corrected and new/more was oil added.

    Synthetic does cost more, but not prohibitively so and it has been proven to excel over regular mineral oil. With it you should also be able to extend your change intervals and bring it closer to the cost you now relate to an oil change.



    JIM

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