Pulling the alternator on 8V92

[mike kerley]

Hello All,

I have our bus in the Florida Detroit shop for oil change and transmission service. Its has had an oil leak for some time which I'm told is coming from the area of the alternator. Mechanic does not feel he can access it from the bottom and want to pull the wardrobe and floor in the bedroom to get at it from the top. Not sure if its the seal around the alternator or the oil line feeding it at this point.

Any thoughts? Anyone done this. I remember Jon posting something about this at one time concerning his old bus.

Also have a minor leak from the "front seal" which I'm told will require pulling the bumper, motor mounts + more and expect 10 hours labor +. Sound right? Still waiting to find out what "minor" is. I will be at the shop later today. Its the first time I've left our coach with a service shop!!!!

I appreciate everyone's input.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Mike,

This is a jaundiced view of replacing stuff like front and rear seals.

Get a firm price. Then compare that cost with the amount of grief you have at the end of a long drive cleaning the back of the bus or the toad. If you do not have a lot of time invested cleaning things after driving all day then it puts the amount you are going to spend in perspective.

I had a rear seal replaced at one time and within a year the oil on the bottom of the bell housing and the oil pan was just as much as before the work was done. It takes a lot of cans of spray cleaner to add up to the amount I spent trying to pay someone to replace that seal.

I stock spray cans of brake cleaner and they work like a charm washing away any oil that may have leaked.

[mike kerley]

Jon, Looks like were going to live with the front seal leak as well as a very minor one at the cam shaft on the rear. These are not bad.

The oil leak by the alternator is more of a problem. Puddle now under the bus when I stop for several days. Everything in the area is covered with oil. I'm pushing them to identify that leak (seal of line) and at least give me an estimate on time to repair. They are doing the oil change now and cleaning the area, then we'll go from there.

Your info on changing the alternator on your old rig was was a big help. Thanks.

I flew old airplanes for years that always had a puddle of oil under each engine. Just never parked them in a friends driveway. I've got a plastic shield I put down under the coach, but its a mess.

[Petervs]

Since we are discussing leaks here, I noticed nobody is complaining about the leans these days.

I am a firm believer that the leans is a wintertime phenomenon. The o-rings get cold and just do not seal so very well, then the air leaks out and the bus leans over.

On the other hand, in summer, the temps are nice and warm and the seals work great, presto, no leans!

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[Joe Cannarozzi]

I would be suprised if your leak was that oil line but I suppose it could happen.

You have 2 potential leak points other than the line (I had both and significant) The flange that you attatch it to the gear case by and the back cover plate.

3 out of the 4 bolts on the flange are easily acessable, ours were very loose, and without removing the alternator but tightening the ones I could I stoped that leak to where it will accumulate dirt but it does not drip.

The back plate is the simplest of the potential leaks.

While you are in there tighten the attatching bolts on the flange for right angle oil filter assembly, there are more easly gotten things to check and snug up if you will be in there. I had oil coming out of every oriface. Many were that way. Its just a good old American 736cube V-8

The back plate can be done from underneath and the flange bolts ??????? I think I remember that 1 or more needed to be tightened thru from the bedroom floor

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Access through the bedroom floor helps a little, but it is 100% doable from beneath the coach. The key is to be able to stand so a pit (not the best choice) or the lift that allows the height of the coach to be varied is needed.

On the internet at sites such as this one http://www.elreg.com/category/83.aspx you can get all the seals and repair parts for the 50DN.

[mike kerley]

Thanks Jon and Joe,

DD are back at it today. They will not be going through the floor as the hatch is partially covered by the rear cabinet and would require pulling that loose to lift that panel. Bad design.

They (Florida Detroit) are going to use a thinner mechanic today!

I'll let everyone know what the outcome is.

$$

[Jon Wehrenberg]

When that skinny mechanic gets that alternator loose I hope he can support its weight.

FWIW, from the time I pulled in to get the alternator replaced until I pulled out of the Prevost shop was less than 6 hours. I think it was close to 6 hours the first time they replaced it, and around four the second time. The first alternator replaced lasted long enough to get me 400 miles to home. When I went back for the second one they knew exactly what they had to do.

[mike kerley]

New info from Florida Detroit. The oil is coming out of the + terminal on the alternator. They are removing it to determine what has failed inside to allow the oil to exit that point. Sounds like a rebuilt alternator is in my future..

It will be a few years before there is any rust on this mechanic. He is well oiled!

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Mike that post has a double nut one to keep the post tight and sealed to the housing and the other nut holds the cable. The seal is a nylon bushing that keeps the lead from grounding. If the stud wiggles at all it will also be leaking oil.

If ya pull the first nut and cable the lower nut can then be tightened possibly stoping that leak.

Sounds like you have a new one coming.