pyrometer gauge

[Joe Cannarozzi]

All of these suggestions of how to run an 8-V up a hill brings back very vivid memories of a previous discussion on how to do that properly. I was outnumbered at the time but it now seems I was not alone

Thank you, I love you all for all for your infinite wisdom. Let the truth be known.

I have neither pyro's turbo boost or manifold pressure AND a mechanical (non-computer) engine. Yall worry too much.

The manifold pressure would be the most useful for the way I drive. Turbo boost is basically the same gauge.


How do I know if the exhaust temps are rising without a pyro, easy. If I put my foot on the floor and the RPM's are continuing to drop the exhaust Temp is rising. (I try to never do that. It is the ultimate litmus test for how hard to push and agreat habbit to get into)

[truk4u]

Now that finally explains it all.. Peter has a series 60 and Joe has no pyro. Now I understand why both think the gauge is useless.

I watch mine like a hawk, thanks to Brian! You would be amazed at how quickly you can hit the 1100/1200 mark if your not paying attention in the hills.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Tom you have to learn how to become one with your bus

Everyone does it a little differently

So even WITH a computer on the 8-V it does not have the ability to get you up the hill "foot on the floor "(hammer head style) correctly compensating for all potential scenarios, but you are forced to drive it? Oh my gosh.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

As much as I like the Series 60, I don't see it as an improvement over the 8V92 except for fuel mileage.

My 8V92 would pull the hills with the same results as the Series 60 at the same speeds. I don't know if I was at one with the bus, but I do know in both coaches anticipation is required, and that the six speed transmission in particular needs to be in performance mode at least, or like the five speed needs to be manually shifted.

"Balls to the wall" is how I attacked the hills. In the 8V92 I increased my speed as I got near the bottom of the hill to keep the revs up. Forth gear in my bus at 2100 was 55 MPH. If I dropped below 55 to about 50 or 52 I dropped it into 4th and left it there until I bumped into the governor so it would not "hunt" back and forth between 4th and 5th gear.

It just so happens on the current bus 4th tops at at 55 also, but I have 5th and 6th available if the bus needs them. Same techniques as driving the 8V92, except at the bottom of the hill I gain speed in 5th instead of 6th gear and manually downshift the same way at the same speeds.

Foot to the floor the entire time.

My pyros never exceeded 1100 as I recall. I don't know if that was DDEC controlling that or if it was just the way the bus was set up.

[Loc]

With my 8V92 which had DDEC II, the pyros would max out at 1300. Don't count on the DDEC brain keeping you safe.

[gmcbuffalo]

DaleJ
I checked to site of the old leak, felt like I could feel a leak. So I took the insulation off the pipe from the manifold to the turbo and remounted it. Now I could feel a big leak at the junction of the manifold and pipe to turbo. I turns out that I think I have a major leak in the exhaust manifold right side of bus rear cylinder.

Replacing the manifold gaskets, is this a project that I should tackle or bring to the DD or like diesel folks?

GregM

[Joe Cannarozzi]

I think you could do it. Some of the manifold studs are threaded into the water jacket so do not let them turn out. It sounds like ti is the pipe flanges/clamps. What exactly is leaking the flange at the head or the flange for the pipe? Either way a dooable project.

Dumb question. I guess the exhaust blankets keep engine compartment temps down but do they increase the exhaust temp when pulling a grade?

[gmcbuffalo]

Joe iThe leak appears to be coming from where the exhaust manifold attaches to the block. right rear cylinder. I thought it was coming form the pipe joint on the manifold, but after taking it off and on the leak is blowing on the back of my hand. I pushed a screwdriver blade down between the head and manifold and it slowed the leak.


On the blankets I have no idea, they were on the bus when I bought it. The previous owner said he like to go fast so he had a new (suppositly larger) radiator put in, and blankets on every hot pipe.

Greg

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Greg,

Plan on losing coolant. Make sure you have a big pan under the bus when you loosen the manifold nuts.

If you live a clean life and if the planets are properly aligned you may get away with out spilling a drop. For a few days before you tackle the project start applying penetrating oil to the manifold nuts. When you begin the oil may have done the job and you will not lose a stud or drop of coolant.

Those manifolds are very susceptible to cracking, especially at the rear where there is an ear that sticks out at the end. Before you begin you may wish to do a very good inspection to make sure you have manifolds without cracks. If you find a crack it needs to be replaced.

If you do loosen a stud you will need new studs and if I am not mistaken there are special tools for installing studs. They need to be installed tightly.

For all 8V92 owners, one inspection that needs to be done regularly is to look for cracks in the two pipes that go from the manifolds to the turbo inlet. All along and around the perimeter of the exhaust manifolds there needs to be an inspection to look for soot. Soot is the first indicator of a cracked manifold casting or a failing mainifold gasket. Any of these problems will result in the loss of turbo boost at the very least.

[dalej]

Greg,

A bit of a trick I learned to changing manifold gaskets.

On my first gasket I replaced, I started to take out the manifold bolts and as Jon said you will have antifreeze running from the block. I quickly put the bolt back in. I then realized that the manifold will come off with out removing the bolts all the way, it can just be lifted up to take it off.

You don't really have to worry about the rusted taps on the bolts because the bolts will turn out of the head. Just loosen all the taps or bolts about 3 or 4 turns.

You will have to use a side cutter to notch the head gaskets below the bolts for the gasket to be removed the same way the manifold comes off.

Then just notch you new gasket so it will slide down into place and then slide the manifold into place and tighten all the taps and/or bolts.