Bag, valve or fitting?

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Jims........As I mentioned to Hector Jim E's model coach has what I call accumulator tanks plumbed directly to each air bag apparently to increase the volume of air available to each air bag. When you drain them, you drain the air bag also.

The tanks that have nothing to do with the suspension system are the wet, primary, secondary and aux air tanks and as I mentioned they are all ahead of the five port Norgren that blocks air flow out of the air bags.

I suspected the 3 port because I though Jim E said the tank drains were replaced.

Jim C, your coach does not have the tanks whose drains were creating the problem.

[jelmore]

Jon, those pesky drains had been replaced 6 months ago, the professional just didn't do a very good job. They were under warranty, but it's still big hassle.

Now, back to moving about the country.

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

I imagine there's a huge amount of money wasted on repairs like this.

Our wasted money, their PROFIT MARGIN. !

Gary S.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

I initially changed my drains to drains with a spring action with a small cable attached to them so the moisture could be drained off without having to get underneath the bus. The drains in question here are notorious for leaking, even newer ones and especially when it gets cold.

I have again changed my preference and now am using the old style radiator pet cock style drains for the air tanks. They are the ones with the wing nut looking nut that were on radiators before they went to aluminum and plastic.

I know you have seen them.

They tend to get a little hard to open sometimes but will not leak even when it gets cold.

[dreamchasers]

These drain valves can be a problem. My solution to stop minor leaks was to depressure all tanks. Then I took a tube of lithium grease, placed the tube end over the valve discharge and squirted a 1/2" slug of grease into the valve. After spinning the valve handle a few time, they were all sealed. I am confident that by doing this simple maintenance item every couple of years, these valves will seal. I am sure that lubricating the seals internally on these small valves caused a good seal.

It has been my observation in dealing with older coaches, rubber is the enemy. Especially, when attempting to get a coach's air system to seal bubble tight. I have solved numerous air leaks simply by lubricating the sealing surface.

Hector

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

It's a funny thing about getting older and remembering different things, or is it forgetting things. Well I don't know what it was about Hectors post that made me think of something to pass on.

When I had my production shop, one of the industries I supplied was that of aftermarket automatic transmission repair parts. To many consumers anything other than OEM (original equipment manufacture ) is inferior and marginal to say the least. This is not true as the only way for an after market supplier to sell his product is to claim it will exceed OEM specs and performance and be replaced free of labor claims.
So anyway, the parts were never made from blueprints, they were duplicated from samples of OEM parts and reverse engineered. First measured blueprints, then tested for metalurgical data and finish. There was a study of the use and function and any mating parts and characteristics of operation that would influence the quality and function of the part. Anything one could do to make the part superior to OEM was done. Tolerances were determined by measuring OEM samples and holding dimensions between them, most often +/-.0002 in. After 25 years supplying one customer no rejects or returns.

To make a long story shorter. It was determined that "Viton" O rings are superior to "Buna" rubber O rings. Buna is what you get when you don't specify anything.
If you are rebuilding any valves or anything with an O ring and you want it to perform better, order "Viton" O rings from a supplier in the proper size and you will have a superior product. Typically a bearing supply house will also supply O rings.

Other O ring facts: There are inch sizes and metric sizes. Over and above that there are plus and minus sizes to the standard sizes (available from specialty suppliers )

The Viton material is also available in seals.

JIM

[dogear]

This is an old post so I am not too sure whether this is the right place to enter this discussion. It is clear that everybody here knows waaaaay more than I do about the air system on these coaches. The main reason I wanted to enter into this discussion is that I have the EXACT same issue as the original poster. My issue is even on the right rear of the coach and the leak occurs at the same temps. Coach is at Featherlite, Sandford, FL right now for repair of the leak and of course, because it is Florida and warm, the thing won't leak. Hopefully the solution is leaking drains. However if it isn't is my only solution to get the coach back to a colder climate so the leak will appear again? Anyone have any suggestions for a service place closer to me (Lead, South Dakota) than Sandford Florida? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.......JR

[Sid Tuls]

Hey JR, we were in Lead a couple of weeks ago and had a a great time in your state! I had posted this on another thread but when I saw your post just wanted to say hi. Had dinner at the round about or train station and it was a high lite of our trip!! Safe traveles

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Jim,

You really, really should get to Kerrville. As a new owner trying to learn the coach is like drinking from a fire hose. As every owner eventually figures out the suspension at some point will give problems, and if you as an owner turn the bus over to a repair shop and ask them to fix it you might as well just leave your wallet and checkbook on the dash.

Your bus is new enough that replacing the air bags and the Norgren valves is not recommended because that is overkill. But chasing a leak that will not show up in warm temps is a huge waste of time and greater waste of your money.

There are only 3 potential sources of leaks at the right rear that I can think of besides the fittings in the lines to the 3 air bags on that side. The fittings obviously need to be checked, but I would not suspect them. I would carefully check the three air bags, 2 on the drive axle cradle and one on the tag axle. Look especially areound the top where it is crimped to the bellows.

The 5 port Norgren valve may be leaking and no amount of soapy water sprayed on it is likely to find that leak unless it is going sideways past the spool and out the end caps. The final component I would look at is the 3 port Norgren valve between the two axles.

Having said that no matter how detailed the tech is, if the leak doesn't show up when it is warm it is a waste of time and money until the leak ALWAYS occurs.

This is a topic that has been covered in detail on several threads, but bottom line is to wait until the leak is serious an dalways present before chasing it. Yes, leaks first show up in cooler weather but eventually show up all the time. That's normal.

[dogear]

Called The Round House, did you stay at Elk Horn RV park, it's a good one. Glad that you had a fine time. There are some good eating spots that I can help you with next time you are out here! Cheers.....JR