Jamie,
I checked my dash, and like Jim's, it is different from yours.
Jamie,
I checked my dash, and like Jim's, it is different from yours.
Mike's suggestion is great --except the wires I am dealing with are not in a harness or ribbon pin---- they are "floaters" -- thus they are not exposed ends - they have crimped ends that fit into a harness - or - plug. Therin lies the "issue"--- It is difficult to determine where this "co#@su&%er" of a loose wire belongs
2008 Millennium H3-45
2013 Chevy Avalanche
Jamie, I'm looking at a 2000 CC and it also has the Compudash. I haven't,as yet, spoken with the preivous owner as to his problems with the dash, but the company selling the bus just replaced some of the componets [with the latest and greatest upgrades] to the tune of $5000. On my inspection of the bus the dash is working just fine.
The supplier of the componets is unknown to me but I can get that info if you would like. Perhaps they have a 'tech support' that can help.
If you have time, a question.
The bus I'm looking at has cracks at the rear salon windows, running from the back lower corner of the window down and aft, about 3" long. Wondering if your bus has this problem, and how have you dealt with it.
Anything that you would care to share about what I should be aware of as I get closer to accepting or rejecting the purchase?
Regards,Larry
If the windows are cracked look at the cap across the top at the rivet line, and across the rear just above the engine doors. The cracks will be very fine and hard to see.
If you see such cracking I would almost guess that is the result of towing a very heavy stacker trailer with a high tongue weight.
If that was the case I would have Allison do a complete transmission diagnostics.
Larryb
I just check my bus-- there are no cracks as you described.
If you don't mind I would like the info about the re-done compudash. Is there a contact where you are looking at the bus that would be knowledgable??
Thanks
Jamie
2008 Millennium H3-45
2013 Chevy Avalanche
Jamie,
I spoke to the owner of Silver Leaf while at the FMCA convention and he said the complete deal to convert to their system in 10K. He said if we got multiple POG members together so they could do several at one time at the same location, he could cut us a really good deal. What's a really good deal, who knows. http://www.silverleafelectronics.com/?q=node/7
silverleafdash_1.jpg
This is what their version looks like..
But, is it possible that your only problem now is finding where that single wire goes? If the blown fuse on the board has been corrected, isn't it now just a matter of the wire? I wouldn't throw in the towel yet on the dash.
Roger has a newer version and the dash maybe wired like yours.
Hey King, check it out and take a picture.
jamie, I'll start collecting the dash info tomorrow and pass along what I find.
Glad you don't have the cracks! Told by a few, they see these often.
Larry
Jamie, OK, so you have a crimp fitting on the end of the wire that was most likely slid into a connector. Is there voltage on it? How many empty ports are available within reach of the fitting? Any voltage on those empty ports?
Any of the open ports ground? Unless that loose wire was touching something it should not have been, it most likely did not blow your fuse. Typically, shorts blow fuses, not opens. It may stop your dash from working, but should not blow the fuse.
Mike K.
I got a new "dimverter" today and installed it and DASH CRASH is fixed!!!
THANKS to all for helping me through this.
Jamie
Last edited by Jamie Bradford; 12-12-2008 at 12:07 AM.
2008 Millennium H3-45
2013 Chevy Avalanche
Thats gotta make you feel good.