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Thread: Emergency Question about "Check Engine" light

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    Jeff Bayley Guest

    Default Emergency Question about "Check Engine" light

    I'm 50 miles from home on a short 100 mile weekend trip after the bus has been sitting for months. 95 chassis Series 60 XL 45 Royal Converstion.

    On the road and the check engine light came on and bus began to throttle down. Pulled off on shoulder and immediateley checked belts, all fluid levels. Ok. Had issue with water level low sensor before so suspected that at first but it was fixed less than a few thousand miles ago. Could see the water line through the site glass. Threw a gallon of water in it on the outside chance it has sloshed enough to temp trip the light. Buying DDeck reader immediatley when I get home.

    Took off and made it about 3-4 miles before it came on again.

    Thought about jumping the low water sensor with paper clip as I had done prior when it was defective but called Prevost Service Hot Line and (didn't know this), I learned you can initiate a sequence of flashes by depressing the Overide switch and recording both Active Codes and Inactive codes. You veterans will know that Active Codes are something that is happening RIGHT NOW and Inacive codes are the history of everything that has happened. This is next best thing to a DDeck reader to point you in the right direction although not as detailed. Better than nuttin. Had list of codes and cross referenced to find the errors (won't bother with all the history codes, just the first few) Came up with code 14 which is "Coolant Temperature Circuit Failed High" or it could also be "Oil Temperature Circuit Failed High" (you need the reader on a few of these codes to know for sure but this narrows it down and points you in the right direction as I stated) and followed by code 44 which is "Oil Temperature High".

    Technician felt that the first one (the history or Inactive Codes read back to you in the order of most recent as you would expect)........code 14 was either a sensor failing or a bad wire from sensor to DDECK. Possibly a temp voltage spike. Now, code 44 "Oil Temperature High". I don't know. My engine temperature at the gauge was and is fine at 190 or so. Could the oil pump be bad and the oil in fact overheating without causing the engnie to overheat ?

    I'm in a shopping center where I'm probabley going to play it safe and stay put tonight until I get some replies. Remember I'm the guy that had my 94 Series 60 blow up without ANY warning (factory deffective wrist pins is the rumor) so I'm going to go with "caution" instead of "go for it" until I know. Got Good Sam's and AAA and rather use that instead of loose another engine.

    Now I sat in the parking lot just now and ran the engine waiting to see if the Check Engine light would come on again and I could catch the "Active Code" and I did. It was code 44 or "Oil Temperature High. Over the course of 10 minutes I noticed it started doing it with some regularity. About every 2-3 minutes. I suspect that when I hit the Engine Overide button to reset it, it must take a few minutes to reset and pick up the error again and flash the Check Engine light.

    So........I presume it comes down to figuring out if I really have hot oil or if if I have a bad sensor. My oil preasure gauge at the dash is reading 40 at idle. There's an aux gauge in the engine bay that I haven't compared yet.

    I'm sitting here overnight. Is the oil pump inside the sump with the pan (and oil) all in the way or is it mounted enternally and how would I test it ? Remove the hose and turn the motor on momentarily ? Presume there must be an oil cooler that I haven't had the joy of poking around for yet. Maybe it's near there. 95 Chassis XL 45. I'll dig into the 5 CD's I have with technical stuff Monday morning I guess.
    Last edited by Jeff Bayley; 11-10-2008 at 12:05 AM.

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