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Thread: Blackwater Valve

  1. #11
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    There are some things that can fail on our coach that we do not even want to think about.

    This is one of them.

    Everything on our coach can be fixed, including the waste valves. Fortunately they are very reliable except when you drive over something that damages the assembly. I won't name names but there are some on this forum that can tell you how to go about making the repairs.

    Can we change the topic?

  2. #12
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    Dale,

    FYI... My black valve was hard to pull. I drained the tank and rinsed real good a couple times. I then removed the 4 bolts that hold the blade in place and was able to move the blade box around and lube it with silicone. I think it could easily have been removed from the plumbing, but I didn't need to go that far.

    This is only for our vintage CC's, as the plumbing is fixed and glued in place, but the knife valves can be moved around and/or removed I believe for replacement.

    Or, call Jdub, he is the resident stink expert!

  3. #13
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    Alexandria
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    Why is it when someone can't name names, my name will eventually appear?

    During the infamous J. Buffett "ROCK" concert incident I did remove my 45 degree dump pipe hookup. Requiring a new valve in the process.

    Actually a pretty easy job, after you get the tank emptied. Since there was a clean break, there was no way to hookup the hose. So we headed to Chicago to find the Dave Matthews Memorial Bridge.

    After emptying the tank it's just an unbolting, and possibly pvc cutting job. I'll try to provide some pixs later on.

    One trick I learned from Trukman (why is it he's the goto guy when it comes to pooh.) is that after emptying the tank, and before removing the valve, use your low level system to lean the bus AWAY from the opening. You might also want to have a box of disposable gloves on hand.

    Mike

  4. #14
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    Funny, I did not see your name appear except on your post.

    I do recall that the Mothership was a part of several poop chute stories. Care to add any more detail for our newer members?

    Remember, you outed yourself.

  5. #15
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    May 2007
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    Port St. Lucie, FL
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    Haven't performed this task myself, but I've helped another guy replace his.

    Not a major job by any means BUT it is VERY IMPORTANT to make sure the waste tank is completely empty. Tipping the bus away from the outlet is a great idea..... and still be prepared for a little "spillage" which is unavoidable.

    It's also a good idea to make sure the replacement valve is well lubricated when installed, as it will ensure smooth operation for a long time.

    Good luck!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Santa Barbara
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    I just removed my broken 3 inch waste Coupler which was damaged by a small boulder as I turned a corner in a RV park. I noticed Liberty had glued the fitting into the PVC 90 with silicon instead of PVC glue. It made it much easier to remove the damaged part w/o breaking the 90 degree fitting. I'm thinking this might be a well thoughtout consideration by Liberty.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  7. #17
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    Jan 2006
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    Nichols Hills
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    Gary,

    I think thoughtful consideration is not having the thing hang down in the first place. Our Royale had that issue, but we are free from it now.

    p1.jpg

    We also learned at OSH that you can swivel this set up where the discharge comes straight out so the honey wagon can easily hook up. And the valves are easy to change and service, unlike the Royale where you also had to get on your knees to hook up the dump hose.

  8. #18
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    Mar 2006
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    Santa Barbara
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    That is a nice set up . Liberty has one holding tank however and the drain outlet for the tank is at the very bottom. It looks like Marathons 2 tanks are elevated.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  9. #19
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
    I have noticed when I pull the handle on the slide valve to dump my blackwater tank it seems to function a little strange. When I pull the valve all the way out, it flows for a few seconds then seems to almost stop. I can push the valve back in about 3/4 of the way, and the flow begins again. At this point the valve is only 1/4 open.

    As part of a routine maintenance, the previous owner had both valves replaced in February of this year by Marathon in Texas. Since I have never had one of these valves apart, I don't really know how they look inside. I assume it is just a flat blade that moves out of the way and allows the flow. I don't understand why the flow would decrease when I pull the handle all the way out?

    Can someone shed some light on how this might be happening? It's not really causing a problem, but I would like to understand what is going on.
    I have had a similar problem and I assumed is is some type of air lock that occurs. If I shut the valve and reopen it flows properly again.

    Pam thinks its a build up of Gas, I'm not buying that one, but we do eat lots of tacos.

  10. #20
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    Jan 2007
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    Dale, Getting this Thread back on track, I have noticed the same thing you posted at the beginning. I have always thought it was toilet paper jamming up at the discharge bend. I wonder if Septic Tank approved paper is better to use. I have also seen Buses at different repair facilities with the same issue. They call it " A Clog " and the new guys always get stuck with the job.

    99 Country Coach 45XL
    Jeep Liberty

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