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Thread: Bus Barn Lighting

  1. #1

    Default Bus Barn Lighting

    As some of you have gathered from recent posts, I am in construction of a bus barn and have asked advice from the pros on a variety of subjects. I have read in some past post about the desire for "surgical suite" lighting. I am trying to plan that, but haven't engaged an electrician as of yet. Do any of you have suggestions as to types of fixtures, i.e. flourescent, high pressure sodium, metal halide, etc.? Wattage, candlepower, or anything else that will help in the planning process.

    I realize this is outside of the normal area of expertise for this group, but I have learned that there is some great advice out there if you just ask, so let hear me hear your opinions. Thanks.
    Tony and Jenny Conder
    Abilene, Texas
    - - - - - - - - - - -
    2008 Marathon D/S XLII
    2017 RAM 1500 4x4

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aggies09 View Post
    As some of you have gathered from recent posts, I am in construction of a bus barn and have asked advice from the pros on a variety of subjects. I have read in some past post about the desire for "surgical suite" lighting. I am trying to plan that, but haven't engaged an electrician as of yet. Do any of you have suggestions as to types of fixtures, i.e. flourescent, high pressure sodium, metal halide, etc.? Wattage, candlepower, or anything else that will help in the planning process.

    I realize this is outside of the normal area of expertise for this group, but I have learned that there is some great advice out there if you just ask, so let hear me hear your opinions. Thanks.
    Deb and I used four foot long florescent fixtures. Whole barn has 47 fixtures, or 94 bulbs total, but not all of those are in the "bus" side of the barn. We used "daylight" bulbs, which I think are supposed to be a little brighter than normal florescent bulb. On ceiling, we ran three rows of five fixtures lengthwise with the bus. And we switched them so could hit Switch 1 for five fixtures along left side of bus, Switch 2 to get five more fixtures directly over center of bus. Then Switch 3 to get five more along right side of bus. These fixtures were evenly spaced along the 56 foot length of the barn, and evenly across the width of the barn.

    Then on walls we did four horizontal fixtures on each of left and right sides at eight foot level, and the bulbs aim toward the bus (not the ground). These four fixtures split the difference on the five ceiling mounted fixtures. Each side is switched separately. The horizontal fixtures are spaced between the five ceiling mounted fixtures. Then one foot above each horizontal (and centered on the horizontal) is a vertical fixture, for a total of four vertical fixtures on left and four on right, with each of the two vertical sections separately switched.

    So depending on what I want to light, I can light left, center, or right of ceiling, or left or right 8 foot height horizontals, or left or right 12 foot height verticals, or I can turn 31 fixtures on all at the same time.

    This doesn't address lighting under bus, where we use shop lights to see where we're working (make that "where Deb is working," since she's the brains and brawn behind all the underneath bus goings on, which she learned paying attention to Jon W. or doing what he told her to do). For under bus, we run an extension cord from one of the four place outlets we have all the way around the perimeter every 12 feet. Attach shop light and work away.

    We also put garage door at each end of bus, and Deb likes the natural light provided when both end doors are opened when she's underneath. Plus provides ventilation and sometimes, when we're lucky, a breeze.

    So that's how we did it. No science behind it other than we were told to put more lights than we could imagine we'd need (because we were aging and our eyesight would not be getting any better), and that's how we came up with what we did. So far works for us. I know there are other solutions, too, which others will share with you.

    Barn has 200 amp electrical box, too, with a Jamestown Advanced Products electrical campbox both inside and outside barn.

    Hope this is all helpful.

    eric faires
    huntsville, TN

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC (next door to Pinehurst)
    Posts
    546

    Default Natural Lighting

    You might want to consider skylights so your electrical meter does not spin too fast. I'm in an old commercial plumbing company building. It has several plastic skylights. They have become cloudy and mossy over many years but still are able to pass light. If they were clean I can only imagine how light it would be inside.

    Also, with that great expanse of roof available, how about some solar panels to reduce your personal carbon footprint. Oh no, that sounds too much like AG and we all know what he does about his personal carbon footprint. Just how big a shoe can one human place in its mouth - inquiring minds want to know.

    I'm outta here while the gettings good.

  4. #4

    Default lighting

    Eric thanks for the detailed explanation. I had been contemplating a similar layout, but thought about using 8' units instead of 4'. Did you give any consideration to different types of lighting or just hone in on the florescent strips?
    Tony and Jenny Conder
    Abilene, Texas
    - - - - - - - - - - -
    2008 Marathon D/S XLII
    2017 RAM 1500 4x4

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    3,177

    Default

    Hi Tony. What you might want to do is hire a lighting consultant. The short answer is , it's going to be your personal preferences which determine your Lighting. Are you going to have an open ceiling design, or a T-Bar ceiling. Do you want a simple good lighting design or do you want something more hi tech. A simple design would be to do a pattern lay-out of light fixtures to accomplish even lighting thru-out the building at a pre determined foot candle strength. This can be accomplished with a variety of different types and looks of light fixtures, depending upon your budget. If you want to have a secondary set of lighting which would then high light the bus or a certain area of the barn, you can consider a tungsten type lamp and fixture on cable hung track, or monopoint.
    Fluorescent is the most efficient for your money per kw used. It turns on emmediately, no warm up time like high pressure and low pressure lamps.
    It also has an large choice of color choices.
    A Licensed Electrical Contractor with Commercial and Institutional back ground should be able to help you with your project. Just remember, the lighting can be as simple or as complex and unique as you want it.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Houma, LA
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    1,783

    Default

    Tony,

    Are you going to have a "pit" in your bus barn? As you know, Jon has one and he loves it. Dale (Roadrunner) also has a pit in his new barn. If I were going to build a new barn, I would consider one. I think that the additional cost is minimal.
    Tuga & Karen Gaidry

    2012 Honda Pilot

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bristol, Tn
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    1,647

    Default

    I would suggest you consider the 8 foot long double tube flourescent HIGH OUTPUT lights and fixtures. I have both (regular flourescent and High Output) in mine and the High Output just put the normal daylight fixtures and bulbs to shame. The cost is almost twice and so are the results. As My fixtures have aged 4-5 years they hum in the cold and if you are trying to zero in on a leak, that sucks. I have been told that I could remedy the hum by changing the ballast, but in 20 minutes or less the hum stops when they are on.

    If I had it to do over I would run the High Output Lights only everywhere--better light and no hum!

    thats my 2 cents
    Roger that!
    2008 Liberty DS XL2
    2023 Denali Ultimate
    My 6th Prevost

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Nichols Hills
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    2,465

    Default

    We installed these lights in the hanger. Pretty easy to do with a lift and they are plenty bright. They are the metal halide version.



    They are the Lumark brand from Cooper Lighting.

    http://www.lumark-lighting.com/commo...20Bay&id=11404

  9. #9
    sawdust_128 Guest

    Default Mix of lights

    I used 4-foot, dual bulb fixtures laid out centered on an 8x8' grid. I used flor. bulbs of mixed color to prevent tautomeric effects. I used a mix of floods and spots mounted on the wall for area (benchtop) and task lighting. In some areas, I had IR heat lamps to drive out/keep off condensation on some pieces of equipment (especially in spring and fall).

    Most important thing I found, I tried a lot of different ceiling materials. In the end, what worked the best was a sheet rock ceiling, 3 coats of a deep cover primer and the brightest, most reflective ceiling white paint (2 coats). I used fixtures without reflectors, suspended about 18" from the ceiling. This is what seemed to work the best. I got a lot of improvement when I made the last change and that was to extend the ceiling white down the top 4' of the walls.

    Good luck.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    291

    Cool Light in floor?

    Tony, if you are going to have a pit or a specific place where the bus will be parked, I would suggest light fixtures in the floor and also in the pit focused to the underside of the bus. Many years ago I managed a shop where we had a set up like this and as I recall it was great and, in most cases, didn't involve moving corded lights around.

    Sounds like you are getting great advice from some real experts so this is my only 2 pesos worth.

    Darl

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