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Thread: Mountain passes

  1. #1
    bwalz Guest

    Default Mountain passes

    I'm sure this has been asked before but here we go again! We have a Series 60 and are about to embark "over the hump." Previously in a 40' Prevost I overheated and was told at the time my RPM's were too low.
    When consulting a friend wih a 45' Series 60 he suggested gearing to run at 2000 RPM's to avoid problems.
    Any experienced high altitude guru's out there??

  2. #2
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    I'll be interested to see what the pros post. But my last trip out west I kept it at 15-1600 and watched the temps w/ no problem. 2000 seems high to me.

    I was more worried about the down side.

    Mike

  3. #3
    bwalz Guest

    Default reply to Mango Mike

    2000 seemed high to me also. I've always thought 1800 to be the top side of safe.

  4. #4
    Petervs Guest

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    Well, I do not know if I am a pro or not, but I have 50,000 miles on my series 60 driving all over. We live in the west, and most trips involve going over a pass here or there.

    Many interstate passes are 6% grades and some climb to 6000 feet or more. We have been to 10,000 feet. Many of the smaller highways also have good climbs, usually with more twisty parts and not so much a steady long even pull.

    In any case, I drive up the hills with the transmission in Drive and the pedal to the metal. The two speed fan keeps the coolant temp in line without any problem, even on hot days. The DDEC keeps anything harmful from happening. The RPM falls where it will. Peak torque is around 1500 rpm, so that is the most powerful way to climb the hill.

    Going down, I choose the gear that when the Jake Brake is on keeps the speed around 55 or so.

    My technique would be different if I had an 8V92.

    Basicall with the Series 60, "Don't worry, be happy!"

  5. #5
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    I either chang to 'economy mode' on the transmission or shift down a gear when my speed drops below 50. The RPM's go up at that point and max's out at about 2000. I have not had any major temp. rise in either case.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  6. #6
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    We have a 6% grade that extends for miles that we climb and descend about 3 or four times a year. When we lived in our previous home we took a route that covered another 6% grade also extending for quite a while. That hill we often climbed with our 8V92. The altitudes were fairly low however so that affects cooling capability beneficially.

    In both our 8V92 and the Series 60 I select the gear that will allow me to go up the hill as fast as I can. In both coaches I hit the bottom of the hill higher than normal speed in the gear that I knew would hold the best speed to the top. In the 8V92 I had the 5 speed Allison and if I could keep the revs to 1800 or above in fifth I could hold the speed all the way. My temps would hit 195 to 205 or thereabouts and stabilize. My foot was on the floor all the way.

    The Series 60 with the six speed is no different. I generally drop a gear to fifth, put it in performance mode, start accelerating before I get to the upgrade, and it will drop back to a stabilized speed of between 55 to 60. The temps stay right around 205 or 210 and are stabilized. My foot is on the floor from the bottom to the top.

    I have run these grades in cold temperatures and hot. In colder temperatures the engine stays slightly cooler, but in 95 degree temps the engine temps are what I described.

    If you have to screw around with RPMs, gears, different speeds, etc. to hold the temps at a stabilized point within an acceptable range you do not need to learn hill climbing techniques, you need to service your cooling system and possibly recore the radiator. If you think I am blowing smoke, I run these hills in the heat of summer with the OTR keeping us cool dragging a H2 Hummer.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg View Post
    We have a 6% grade that extends for miles that we climb and descend about 3 or four times a year. When we lived in our previous home we took a route that covered another 6% grade also extending for quite a while. That hill we often climbed with our 8V92. The altitudes were fairly low however so that affects cooling capability beneficially.

    In both our 8V92 and the Series 60 I select the gear that will allow me to go up the hill as fast as I can. In both coaches I hit the bottom of the hill higher than normal speed in the gear that I knew would hold the best speed to the top. In the 8V92 I had the 5 speed Allison and if I could keep the revs to 1800 or above in fifth I could hold the speed all the way. My temps would hit 195 to 205 or thereabouts and stabilize. My foot was on the floor all the way.

    The Series 60 with the six speed is no different. I generally drop a gear to fifth, put it in performance mode, start accelerating before I get to the upgrade, and it will drop back to a stabilized speed of between 55 to 60. The temps stay right around 205 or 210 and are stabilized. My foot is on the floor from the bottom to the top.

    I have run these grades in cold temperatures and hot. In colder temperatures the engine stays slightly cooler, but in 95 degree temps the engine temps are what I described.

    If you have to screw around with RPMs, gears, different speeds, etc. to hold the temps at a stabilized point within an acceptable range you do not need to learn hill climbing techniques, you need to service your cooling system and possibly recore the radiator. If you think I am blowing smoke, I run these hills in the heat of summer with the OTR keeping us cool dragging a H2 Hummer.
    One Question Jon. You said that you switch from Economy mode to performance mode as you are preparing to climb the hill? If so then its ok to make these changes to the mode setting on the fly in either direction? I really need to read the Prevost manual.

    I have never used anything but economy mode in an effort to save some fuel, but am now thinking that its a mistake when climbing and even descending large grades. I noticed on my trip across from Coburg that I had many occasions where the extra torque would have been helpful, and if applied might have keep the temps in check better.

  8. #8
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    You can switch transmission modes at any time.

    All that is happening when you go from one mode to another is changing the shifting parameters. In economy mode the transmission will upshift sooner, downshift later, and tend to have softer shifts. It is keeping the engine in a lower RPM range where torque is high, and HP is low for the best fuel efficiency.

    In performance mode the shifts will occur at higher RPM, downshifts will occur much sooner, especially if the transmission senses a load such as a hill, and the shifts will tend to be more abrupt or agressive. By using this mode at the base of a hill I can hold the coach in a lower gear longer. This will prevent an upshift to a gear that cannot maintain the desired speed and the constant "hunting" of the transmission as it shifts up and down.

    The only thing happening when you shift from mode to mode is a change in the shifting program. There is no internal shifting of gears such as going from low range to high range in a transfer case on a 4WD vehicle.

  9. #9
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    As I recall at POG 4, Bill Jenson from Prevost said that performance mode added 200 rpm to the shift cycle.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg View Post
    You can switch transmission modes at any time.

    All that is happening when you go from one mode to another is changing the shifting parameters. In economy mode the transmission will upshift sooner, downshift later, and tend to have softer shifts. It is keeping the engine in a lower RPM range where torque is high, and HP is low for the best fuel efficiency.

    In performance mode the shifts will occur at higher RPM, downshifts will occur much sooner, especially if the transmission senses a load such as a hill, and the shifts will tend to be more abrupt or agressive. By using this mode at the base of a hill I can hold the coach in a lower gear longer. This will prevent an upshift to a gear that cannot maintain the desired speed and the constant "hunting" of the transmission as it shifts up and down.

    The only thing happening when you shift from mode to mode is a change in the shifting program. There is no internal shifting of gears such as going from low range to high range in a transfer case on a 4WD vehicle.
    So then I would simply press the mode button one time in each direction???? to change back and forth between modes??? Nothing comes up in the window that says Economy/Performance??? I just will notice the difference when the auto shift kicks in, RPM's etc?

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