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Thread: melted wires?

  1. #11
    Joe Cannarozzi Guest

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    If you can convieniently shut off the chassis batteries with the master disconnect, without loosing radio memorys for example, do that.

    I would deffinatly disconnect the tender till I was sure what was going on. If you can not convieniently shut down the chassis while camping you might be buying a new tender.

    I would deffinatly remove all the chassis battery cables and service them and if you have not had to spend any money on batteries for the chassis yet it might be time to test them, one at a time, with a charge and a overnight rest to make sure they are all good.
    Last edited by Joe Cannarozzi; 03-24-2008 at 07:20 PM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Forest
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    2,486

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    AJ,

    Joe is certainly right about this.

    1. Shut down the tender now, before something worse happens.
    2. clean the corrosion off of the batter post you show here.

    Is there a meter on the battery tender which indicates how much charge is being applied, (even like idle vs bulk charge). It could be, as Jon suggested, that either you have a bad battery which is constantly charging, or the corrosion is simply making the battery tender work too hard. In either case shutting down and cleaning is the first step. If after cleaning you're getting constant charging, most likely a battery needs to be replaced.


    You shoudn't need a chassis battery tender very often, especially with as much traveling as you're doing. Generally you only would need to use a battery tender when you're leaving the bus for extended periods. As Joe suggested, you can generally quite safely turn off the baterry disconnects for the chassis battery completely too.

    I have very successfully left my bus untended for over 30 days, and was able to start just fine. Generally, if I were going to not use the bus for more than 2 to 4 weeks, I would certainly engage the battery tender.

    Clean the terminal, monitor it, and let's see what happens.

    Ray

  3. #13
    Joe Cannarozzi Guest

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    We once ran the chassis batteries down camping. It took about 10 days and we frequently had multiple bay doors open with lights on for long periods.
    I meant to put on/off switches on the bay lights to remedy that but have not got around to it.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Alexandria
    Posts
    2,161

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    It's interesting that the failure point is right where the zip ties are located.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Port St. Lucie, FL
    Posts
    1,745

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    AJ,

    If you're going to be with us here in Port St. Lucie for a while, I'll be glad to lend you a hand.

    Stop by and let me know if I can be of any help....

    Paul

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    anytown
    Posts
    8,908

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    AJ,

    Battery tender problem or not, those posts and terminals need to be cleaned down to bare metal.

    It is entirely possible that because of the corrosion creating resistance or a battery going bad that the battery tender has been working overtime.

    The reason the damage appears at the nylon ties as noted by Mike is that a lot of current is flowing through the wires, and as a result they are getting warm. Bundling them with the wire ties concentrates the heat as you can see. All is not lost. Get things cleaned up, leave the tender off for a while and if the batteries drop in voltage (I'm assuming chassis) chances are they are bad or going bad.

    The wire from the tender can be replaced along with the end terminals which are likely corroded beyond redemption.

    If the batteries are going bad replace them as a set before you experience problems.

  7. #17
    ajhaig Guest

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    I always shut off the two switches that isolate the chassis batteries when we park. I think the batteries were new in 2005.

    There isn't a meter on the tender. Where the wires are coiled together by the wire ties is one solid clump of melted plastic, I think the tender is history.

    Should we do away with the tender?

    How do I test the chassis batteries?

    Paul - We will be here for several days, I'd appreciate any help.

    Thanks.

    AJ

  8. #18
    lewpopp Guest

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    AJ, thanks for the pink shirt plug. You are now a high ranking POG master harrasser.

    I was going to suggest that you get hold of Paul because the "tender guru" Truk tutored Paul on his way to success.

    You ought to see the 2 redheads that are with Andy and Sarah. Rusty pipes.

    Paul will show you how to clean up the terminals without rusting the concrete. But don't drink that water no mater what Paul says.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    3,177

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    AJ, One thing about electrical wires and componants . One cause can result in many varied outcomes. Keep an eye on batteries and terminals as a monthly maintenance item. A loose or corrosive condition can create havoc. Heat build up will cause the insulation to begin to brown and blacken and burn off at a terminal indicating a loose connection.
    You should cut away all of the bundle of wire not in use on your Battery tender. Voltage and current don't flow in one direction necessarily, so the heat build up may have nothing to do with your tender being on.
    Gary & Lise Deinhard, 2003 Elegant Lady Liberty, Dbl slide

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Posts
    852

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    Don't binded the wires so tight next time. Allow the wire the chance to air cool. Make the new wires only as long has they have to be to do the job.
    GregM

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