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Thread: OTR AC - My Bad

  1. #1
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    Cool OTR AC - My Bad

    Well after a little more searching, the problem with the condenser blower fan motor on the OTR air was the CIRCUIT BREAKER. I checked them three times, but there was no power to the unit. Then a technician says you can't just "push" them in, you have to really "bump" them pretty hard to reset them.

    The good news is no parts or labor incurred, but now it makes me think how stupid I have been not having the OTR air thru the fall and the only problem was a simple circuit breaker. And I knew there wasn't an electrical problem that caused it to trip because it popped out shortly after I encountered a monster set of new highway speed bumps at night that the State of Oklahoma installed before a flashing yellow light. I guess I should have taken a hammer to the stinking thing.

    Anyone know what the proper circuit breaker resetting protocol is?

  2. #2
    ken&ellen Guest

    Default reset CB

    Depending on the manufacturer, some trip in a neutral position and require that you switch to the off position prior to going to the on position, others have a visible trip flag to indicate a fault. Brute force should not be required unless you are dealing with 250-400 amperes in larger molded case circuit breakers.

  3. #3
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    Default

    If only it were that easy.

    You will soon find an assortment of circuit breakers on your coach. Some are thermal reset (they trip and reset on their own) some are the Klixon type (similar to airplane ones), some are as you described, the 110-220vac load center type and then there are these monster push botton breakers all over the coach, especially if you have OTR air. In the engine comparment, in the bays, in all kinds of assorted places, or at least in the Royale conversion.

    The bigger the amperage, the bigger the button and I guess the harder to reset. I have enclosed a photo of a small 4 amp, so the corresponding 90 amp is 5 or 6 times as big.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    Default

    Jerry,

    That condensing fan CB might be a weak point in the system. At least now you know about it and if the fan quits and the AC warning light comes on you can reset it, but if it happens again you should plan on replacing it.

    I ran into that problem on my old coach and after determining there was no problem with the circuit I replaced the breaker and the problem went away.

    To Ken and Ellen, and all, those big red breakers sometimes do not even looked like they tripped. Unlike some CBs that stick way out or in some way are obvious they tripped these may look completely normal. The only answer when trouble shooting is to look for power on the circuit. When I have had to reset mine I can't put enough pressure with my finger or thumb so I use something like a screw driver handle or something similar I can really push hard on to reset the CB.

    Jon

  5. #5
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    Default

    I have to think after running it for 6 hours, hitting those teeth rattling bumps had to cause it. I didn't get 200 yards from them when I am sure the pressure on the compressor rose because of the condenser fan being off and the warning light came on as it shut the compressor down. It even dislodged the CB speaker which is inconveniently located in the plenum behind the CruiseAir over the driver's head. Now I have to figure out how to pull the stinkin trim and air intake off so I can reattach the speaker which is now massively annoying as it rattles right above my head.

  6. #6
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    Default Maybe

    Only time will tell, but I suspect the CB is getting tired. It's possible a rough road may have caused it to trip, but absent an electrical cause I would still stick with my suspicion the CB is nearing the end of its useful life.

    BTW, the brushes in the condensing and evaporator motors are a service item. It might be worth your time to pull one of them. In the meantime I will look up the length Prevost calls as a minimum.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Okay Mr. Photo Post-a-saurus, how do you pull the brushes to check them? Is it real evident or is the issue getting them back in (unless you know the Delcotron trick)?

    I also bid on a brand new condenser blower motor on EBay this week, but it went above my gold room parts supply price. I figured it might be a handy part to have around when I thought mine had crapped out.

  8. #8
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    Default Brushes

    They are accessible behind small black metal plates. Some are hard to get at and in my old coach the entire assembly had to be loosened to get access to the brushes in the rear.

    To check you only need to pull one.

    I will check the manual and pull one of my brushes and give you the real pertinent poop, and post it later. I don't want to rely on my memory because the last time I monkeyed with them was more than ten years ago.

    Your Delco reference suggests you have been playing with brushes on the GM alternators and using the hold-em-back with the toothpick trick.

  9. #9
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    Default Driver side window

    My 99XL has a dual pane glass window with the sliding portion to the rear. There is moisture getting in-between the 2 pieces of glass, any easy fixes?
    Kevin

  10. #10
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    Kevin,

    If you are referring to the driver sliding window, mine has the same problem. Moisture gets trapped in there and it fogs up. This rates right up there with the loose turn signal problem that I just fixed, but I don't know how to handle this one. If someone on the board doesn't know, I will hit the glass man up and post the findings.

    Jon,

    I will pull one of the brushes when you have the poop and yes I have put brushes and diodes in several GM alternators and yes I used a toothpick to hold the brushes back. Old indian tricks are worth knowing. We also used gopher matches with the heads clipped off to hold the rubber block-to-head gasket on the 8V92's and 71's to keep them set as we put the heads on.

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