Voltage, well regulated, please...

[win42]

Darl: On My Royale I had similar yellow wires directly connected to the batteries. I moved them to the 24V disconnect switch so they will be off with the switch open. No apperant problem developed after doing this, except the batteriers stay charged with the switch off. I think I traced the wires to the inverter that changes 24V to 12V for the headlights. We don't need headlight power when parked with the switches off. I am no electrical guru for sure, but this worked for me. I leave a 24V "Battery Tender" on the starting batteries when parked.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Truk, no problem jumpin' in because both your coaches are closer in age. I have stopped referring to my coach and I am trying to stay with the wiring diagrams that seem to most closely relate to Darl's.

I don't think Darl needs to spend the money for a tow or repairs because this thing is due to a single problem, as yet unidentified. I believe we can all work through this and get him running again.

Harry, I think you did the right thing. That is exactly how Prevost has done that on some coaches (and why I screwed up so bad) and their wiring diagrams show those wires at the big CBs.

[Darl-Wilson]

Tom, Jon, and Harry, thanks for the great advice. I have to take my wife to the Dr. so I will check this out when I return and post the results. I certainly don't want to go to the expense of having someone poking around for something they don't know about and charging me a fortune. What all of you wrote makes real good sense. The weather has changed a bit so hopefully it will cooperate while I work on the home. Thanks again!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Darl,

Here is the procedure I would use to check this, and why.....

I assume your batteries are up to their desired voltage and are connected according to the Prevost diagram. Obviously this is essential to insure you get the right voltages to the 12V and 24V circuits.

Verify 24V at the big cable on the starter. This proves the 24V master is closed. This cable does not go through any CBs, just through the 24V master switch to the solenoid.

If OK, verify 24V is in the rear electric box. This is essential. If it is not, it means power is not getting past CB6 (that number may need to be verified, but it is the CB that feeds the rear box.

If OK, and there is 24V power to the rear box, power to the rear start switch passes through CB16 (again verify that number). If there is power to the rear start momentary contact switch, there should be continuity between wire 88 at the momentary contact start switch all the way to the starter relay coil R4. If OK there is no reason to not hear a click when the engine control switch is in the rear start position and the rear start switch is pushed.

If there is continuity and it has been confirmed, if a push on the rear start button does not produce a click in the R4 relay the relay may need to be replaced. If you hear the relay, and the starter does not engage, check for 24V at one side of the R4 relay. This should be at wire 24R, a 10 ga. wire. The other side, wire 86 goes towards the starter solenoid.

I still think you are going to solve it where I have highlighted it in red. I got my neck stuck out a country mile on this Darl, and if it turns out different than that, do me a favor and lie so it looks like I know what I am doing.

[truk4u]

Jon,

Your wire numbers are identical to my 99 chassis and should match Darl's.

[Darl-Wilson]

I am back at my office for a while but I stopped at home for a bit when I came back from the Dr. I removed the cover on the rear circuit breaker and with some limited testing found that I only have 12V back there including the 24V switch. I tried CB6 and had nothing. Tried with both master switches on and off. Still nothing. This may be just as you all suspected from the start, a circuit breaker. Now, my questions are; if this has indeed failed (I will double check it in the morning) should I replace it with a 105amp and where do they sell this type of breaker? Smith Power Products, Detroit Diesel does the service on my Prevost but they order the CBs from Prevost.
Again,everyone, thanks for all your help. I hope to return the favor one day soon!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Darl,

It may not have failed. It probably tripped, but you haven't got enough force in your thumb to reset it if it is like the ones on mine. I had to hold a screw driver flat blade on the face and push like hell with both hands along the length of the screwdriver. It hardly moves when it resets, but there is a distinct snap so you know it reset.

If it did in fact fail I would replace it with the same size unless the coach has had problems which I doubt.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Darl,

The guy that nailed this from the git-go, if it is in fact the CB was George (Toy Box). The only reason I came back to this was I think somewhere you said the CBs were OK, and my look-see at the wiring diagrams kept bringing me back to what George said.

Good job George.

[truk4u]

Darl,

The question is:

Do you have 24+ volts between the master switch and one side of CB6?

[Darl-Wilson]

Tom,

The answer is:

NO

I only have 12.8V on any place I could check throughout the CR area or at the starter. I have not made that specific check yet. I am going to try the Jon starter/screwdriver trick on the CB6 when I get home. If that don't work I will check the voltage between the master and the back of the #6 breaker. I have been looking for a 90amp CB here in Reno but to no avail. I just signed up to buy parts from Prevost direct in case I can't get the the CB reset. Thanks for your help Tom.