Country Coach Push Buttons

[dreamchasers]

I am looking for feedback or advice from Country Coach conversion owners concerning the back-lite push buttons used by Country Coach in the 1995 models. These multi-colored illuminated buttons are used throughout the coach for all controls. I have noticed the same button used in later year models Country Coach conversions. It seems that their are three colors (combined LEDs) available, red, amber and green. Several of my lights will change color simply by tapping the button, not activating it. Also, several buttons seems to be show red and amber. What is the secret to getting these buttons to function correctly. I am somewhat electronically savvy, so any information on the details of the electronic system will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Hector

[Ray Davis]

These are Sun-Mullins (sp?) that were popular with CC in the 90's. Unfortunately there are a couple of issues. (1) they are prone to failure, and (2) they are expensive.

The good news is that in many cases the switches can be cleaned. Turn off your electrical completely (shut down the 12V internally), and you can pop the tops of the switches. Then spray some electrical contact cleaner in them, and let them set for around 30 minutes to dry.


This fixed issues with my cruise control, which were all caused by dirty switches. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm guessing that the ones on the drivers left side (which face upwards), are more prone to collect dirt than the vertically mounted switches.

Nick Hessler can certainly tell you more, but he indicated to me that sometimes when they glow red, that is an indication of a switch failure. He told me (I think I've got this correct), that in normal operation most of the switches are to glow green or orange, and that red generally indicated a problem. This may not always be true!

Anyway, contact clean can work wonders on these little puppies.

Ray

[JIM KELLER]

O.K. Got my attention. How do you "pop the top off' without breaking anything ? I have tried before and couldn't get them off. Tell me the secret please !

[Ray Davis]

Let me see if I can contact Nick Hessler, and have him post. He "did" mine, and I didn't quite see the technique. I was there, and remember it was quite simple, but before you go breaking them ....


Ray

[JIM KELLER]

Let me see if I can contact Nick Hessler, and have him post. He "did" mine, and I didn't quite see the technique. I was there, and remember it was quite simple, but before you go breaking them ....


Ray

Thanks Ray.

[Omnitech]

Good morning! Sorry I've been incommunicado for a while. Let's talk about
Sun-Mulon switches!!!!

There are only (2) switch states used by CC on those switches. Amber indicates "OFF" and green indicates "ON", or an open control circuit/blown fuse from the daughter card downstairs controlling that particular output.

The only deviation from this is the stereo/tv split switch used in the bed
switch groups of some of the earlier CC conversions. On those, one half
is green, and the other half of the split switch is red when activated.

Red indicates that you have a poor contact between the light assembly in
the switch and it's base unit. To remedy this, you will need to remove the
light assembly. It is the part that you press down on to activate the switch.

Please read this completely before attempting this. The parts are expensive,
and fragile.

If you can remove and disconnect the switch group to work on it, that would be the best way to go. If not, shut down the CC "House Disconnect"
switch until you are finished.

If the switches control chassis function, such as the switches on the left- hand driver's console, power down the Prevost 12v and 24v with the knife switches in the rear curbside engine bay, and also shut down the CC "House
Disconnect".

Take a small flat jewelers screwdriver and GENTLY slide it between the clear housing and the black switch fascia on the right or left. Work it in about
1/32nd of an inch, and GENTLY pry the light assembly out. The thinner the
screwdriver, the better. If you pry too hard, you will damage the fascia.The piece should pop out. DO NOT take the clear cover off of the light base.
You should now power down the switch group by disconnecting it, or by
shutting down your "House Disconnect".

Once this is done, spray the inside of the switch base with contact cleaner, available from radio shack and some electronic supply houses. Get the type that evaporates and leaves no residue. After the switch base has been sprayed, insert the light base and press it in until it "clicks" Then work the switch 10-15 times to work the contact cleaner through the switch contacts. I like to rapidly telegraph the switches. It works better for me.

Let the contact cleaner evaporate out for 10 minutes or so, and then you
can reconnect the switch or turn your "House Disconnect" back on.

I tape flag the offending switches and fix them all at once. They have a
tendency to do this with wear and age, so keep a couple cans of contact
cleaner handy.

If this does not do the trick, the switch will need to be replaced. This entails desoldering it from the pc board it is mounted to. The switches cost about
$30.00+ apiece, not including labor and miscellaneous small parts, such as
resistors, transistors, etc.

If you can, inspect the rear of the pc board for any electrolysis (damage from
moisture on the board). It will show up as green/white residue on the traces or contact points. send me pics if you need to, and I'll let you know what it
will take for you to clean or repair it.

I hope this helps. Please feel free to contact me at (541) 321-2545, or email me at omnitech_nick1@yahoo.com.