Project of the day- steering rod boot

[Petervs]

Hi All

Well, I replaced the steering rod boot for the second time and I think this time it is improved. The boot covers the opening where the steering rod which connects the steering gear box ( below the steering wheel) to the front axle. The boot is supposed to help keep road dirt out of the compartment below the driver.

The original Prevost rubber boot was attached to the bus frame opening clamped between a rectangular steel plate with sheet metal screws. It is attached to the steering rod with a hose clamp.The original boot was torn to shreds when I first noticed it in 2002. My coach is a 1994.

The original boot was made of 1/8 inch thick rubber, that is 125 thousandths or 0.125. Since it moves back and forth quite a distance when the steering wheel is turned lock to lock, it actually basically turns inside out, the rubber gets distorted a lot and this is what caused it to tear I think. So I replaced it in 2002 with a piece of thinner rubber, I used 0.070 material. I was hoping the thinner material would flex better and last longer.

Well, that one only lasted a few years and it looked like just the first time. Pictures show both sides of the old boot and what it looked like after it was removed. The next post shows my fix this time.

[Petervs]

OK, so Prevost sold me a replacement boot, they call it a "protector". Part number 160941 for $87.60. They said it was thinner and more flexible than the old one. Well, it is 0.065 inches thick, so basically the same as what I had tried, but thinner than their original. Plus, theirs is already glued into a cone shape, so you have to disconnect the steering rod to slide it over.

I did not want to do that, last time I had I simply cut it to shape and glued the seam around the steering rod. I wanted to do that again since it was easier than unbolting the steering.

Anyway, this time I chose to buy a 60" by 36" piece of gray vinyl tarp material from the local truck tarp repair shop. This was enough for 2 boots. They also sold me an 8 oz can of vinyl contact cement. Total bill was less than $20. This vinyl is 0.017 inches thick, and is reinforced with "scrim" (cloth). It is very flexible and I hope it will last longer. I chose gray because it does not have to be a dark black hole in there. We need more bling, right?

I decided to make the cone longer than the Prevost part hoping to give it more room to flex easier. I made it 10 inches longer. I drew the shape on the vinyl, cut it out, spread glue on a 1 inch width on both edges, wrapped it around the steering rod and glued it together. Then reinstalled the steel plate and hose clamp. I raised the front of the bus air suspension and turned the wheel full left to get decent access to the work area. In the end, I made it too long, about a 4 inch extension would be great, mine now has excess rumpling.

Pictures show the result. Time will tell if is a better answer, it can hardly be a poorer one. All told, the whole project from start to finish was 2 hours. Well, not counting the beer drinking, anyway.

[truk4u]

Good job Peter, I just did mine last week while at Prevost, we'll see what lasts longer. They did say it's real important in keeping road debris out of the steering compartment. I already had the boot and was going to do it myself, but while up on the lift, I caved and let them do it. The steering link was a bear to get off. I had the same idea as you, cut it and then glue back together. The labor was two hours.

Anyone with a leaking output shaft, they have a new and improved seal that should last longer.

[win42]

Peter: I'm thinking out loud again, but it seems to me a split bearing seal could be slid over the shaft and the boot attached to the seal. This would allow the shaft to turn inside the seal without rumpling the boot. The seal at the shaft should keep the dirt out of the area.

[Petervs]

Hi Harry,

Nice idea, I was thinking the same. But the shaft moves side to side and up and down while it is going back and forth from steering inpus, and moves even more when you figure the axle bouncing up and down fromm road bumps. It would be hard to get the bearing to slide nicely.

Anyway, since it is so easy to do it this way, and cheap, I guess if it lasts a year or two and then gets redone it is really not such a big deal. But 2 hours Prevost labor and the price of their part gets you up to around $300 which is less satisfying.

[dalej]

Peter,

Thanks for posting the information. After reading I decided to check mine and my friends 96 marathon, they were both bad and water and dirt could get in the steering bay.

[Petervs]

Here is just an update on this repair. It has now been almost two years, and my thin "boot" still looks like new. The old ones were a disaster at 3 years. A couple of pictures below. I say this repair was an unqualified success!

[Joe Cannarozzi]

I got around to installing this today.

Had to grind off 2 of the 10 or 12 screws and it took a reasonable amount of finagling but it looks good. I used zip-ties instead of a shoestring per suggestion by Alek. Came out good.


This is the front of the drivers wheel-well looking forward into the steering bay
cockpit removal and upgrade 313.jpg

cockpit removal and upgrade 358.jpg


This is looking from inside the steering bay
cockpit removal and upgrade 359.jpg

[jkbriggs]

Joe, where did you get the "boot" and how much? Mine is deteriorating and I want to replace it.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Prevo parts Elgin