Norgren venting opening leak

[Joe Camper]

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It's a plastic seat where the o ring parks.



How's this explosion above. Note the two different sets of two screws that go through the valve the bass the two black ones are what's holding it to the manifold the two tapered head screws hold the body of the valve together itself.

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There's multiple leak points here that show up in numerous ways. I think yours is leaking from this O ring and seat when it's resting that's what's sealing it.

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Flipping it to show the bottom the little o-ring the inner one on the bottom when it leaks goofy things start happening stuff becomes Haywire that are unexplainable these are the kind of leaks that's schematics don't help you with when are starts going backwards feeding back through.

The norgren's themselves depending on how they leak makes things Haywire weird too, so do brake relays.

The outer o-ring on the bottom when that starts leaking you'll just hear it right there at the Norgren Air manifold it's probably just loose. So mark 1 c-clip and 2 of the 4 screws is all u loosen, the 2 tapered head screws dont mess with them. Unless u want to take the old one apart.

I think the cost of two of the coil and valve assemblies will buy you the whole manifold with all five of them so price at both ways you guys are always asking about spares and like to have them these are good spares to have in a Prevost motorhome

[Fratto]

Perfect! I ordered the norgren and the top valve. By the way the parts guys call the top valve a rebuild kit. Will pick the parts up tomorrow and put them in either this weekend or next week. Did not think to price the whole manifold. will do that next time. I am sure that if one of these are going back the others are not far behind.

The norgren was $86 I think and the rebuild kit with out the coil was $40. The coil is another $30.

Love the parts breakdown ... on a wicker table now less :-) You rock.

[Joe Camper]

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Mark I admittedly do not pass up anything that catches my eye at the curb. I picked this set off the curb in front of a house in Key Largo year before last.

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I play the part when im here. In THE ZONE. Dec Jan and Feb that's gardening season. The overnight low tonight will be 70 how u doin?

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Pulled this from the trash coupla days ago. Is there something to rub or brush on dry wicker to protect it??

[Joe Camper]

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Here is a 2 position norgren as it is plumbed on every ifs front end they've ever put out. It's the top one in the steering Bay on the back wall. The top 90 degree fitting is the blue line with the yellow tape on it that actually goes to the front suspension. It sits just above another to position norgren below it. There's a few different things you can do with anyone norgren configuration wise depend on what the result is you're looking for this particular norgren has one of the lower ports plugged and they're just using it for on and off they even want to open or close One path of air so they put a plug.

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Can you imagine. I think the only thing that saved it because all the controls were still working correctly the norgren's weren't what was leaking on the front end suspension getting it to go down that was also caused Again by nipple nuts truck service getting it wrong the first time but I need to stay on message here. The only thing that saved that valve was the fact that the cavity above the plug the valve was configured and that cavity was below the spool so it was almost creating a natural trap and all the s*** was gathering on top of the plug might have even saved itself I don't know.

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Continuing up the path of air the blue line that comes off of that top norgren in the steering Bay it feeds two more 2-position norgren either side of the ride height valve above the axle. Those three norgren's and the two airbags and the two air tanks those are all and only components that can leak causing a front end to go down with the key off. Look at what those two norgren look like when I took them off.

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Here is where we get to include cooky in the story. I went on to the two air tanks for the airbags and for i f s they are tucked up real high up above the sway bar in the middle you know I profess to remove those drains for plugs well here's another good reason to do that. not only are the drains problems with leaking all the time and you really don't need them look what sits on top of the drains if you don't take the plugs out every now and then and look. It gets stranger what's cooky is there was some rust on the driver side tank but I believe that tank is not the cause because the volume of stuff ten times more came out just the one tank on the passenger side. I think over time the rust migrated over into the driver's tank because that all is connected and as you go up and down through that with the air through those valves that are will intermingle. I blew out the driver side some dust and residue came out I blew out the passenger side rust storm, probably got numerous times much more out just blown up that I couldn't save as as in the picture . I made a gadget to shoot up in there and turn around and direct the air and knocked on a tank with a hammer and blew it out both ways and did the best I could we are going to replace that one tank but schedules don't allow it right now so we just made sure that it was clean enough to run air through those new norgans till we get back to do it right. They live on board and I need to get south of Key Largo again it's kind of chilly here in the morning in West Palm. I suspect I can only guess after production that thing set a pallet out in the rain somewhere I have no freaking clue how that one tank on the one side would be so corroded inside and the other side's nothing.

That wasn't why the front end was going down those valves all were still holding in that condition. Nipple nuts Truck Repair didn't tighten down the street elbow and the brass adapter in the 90-degree brass fitting coming out of the top of the airbags both left and right they were bubbling vigorously. She is a happy lass now.

This vantari was put together smart it's an 04 H3 and it doesn't need any air for the slides and it uses electric pocket doors too no air bed lift or automatic pneumatic belly scratcher that pops out of the corner of the bedroom wall so the only thing that you need auxiliary air for is for the airbags for the generator and the Bellows for the belts for the engine when you go to start. The gentleman who has it w
had me actually going through the correct reasons and usage for the auxiliary compressor why it's there and he's had the bus almost 2 years now he never even uses it. You can eliminate the possibility that bad air from an auxiliary compressor created all the rust it never gets used.

You can wash wicker furniture with mild soapy water and then let it dry for a good long time then it can be oiled and again allowed to be dried for a good long time and then you can paint it with clear.

sorry for the long winded post this is what happens when you guys make me wait around for parts.

[Fratto]

When I started looking at the tubing layout and what it takes to remove the norgrens, I decided to just replace both the top and bottom norgrens as well as the top valve on the level low manifold. Also replaced all of the associated fittings while I was at it.

That solved the discharge air leak. However this work apparently disturbed a couple of fittings to the left that are fed from the manifold with the check valve. So I replaced the check valves, brass 4 way and all of those fittings as well.

No more leaks in this compartment .... at least today. I took the bottom norgren apart but did not really see anything glaring. Probably just normal wear.

Installing the top level low valve did take some patience. The two o-rings were not really wanting to stay put ... they eventually gave in and saw it my way.

The bottom norgen had some dark oil residue on the incoming bottom port. Nothing outgoing and nothing in the upper norgren. There was a trace of some in the brass 4 way. Joe, could this be from the auxiliary air compressor that you are not fond of using?

Thanks again for walking me through this.

[PrevostNewbie]

I am about to tackle the air side of my bus in the next 3-4 weeks. I have new airbags, shocks, Wheel seals, Tag reverse logic kit, brake chambers, ride height valves, all the norgrens, tubing, fittings, 8 new tires and on and on. I figure it's best to put the bus up on stands and get into the chassis related stuff all at once.

[Joe Camper]

Mark, What did u do? Buy a rebuild kit instead of replacing it? And what about the top control solonoid and valve on the norgren air manifold what did u do with that? If nothing pull the 1/4 in line between the 2 key off, bet air will be seeping out still. The new sealed norgren has the leak stopped now but the top control valve on the manifold still is bad if u did not replace it.

[Joe Camper]

Mike, if u can do it somewhere u can get things wet so when it's all blown apart u can power wash and paint and detail the chassis u will want to.

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I just got doing the steer axle on my 32 yr old pete. Purdy ain't it. She's a 1990.

[PrevostNewbie]

Wow, that looks nice. I do plan to clean and repaint when i start that portion of the bus. When i did my oil pan and ran the engine for a while you could smell that warm fresh paint, smelled like cookies in the oven.

[Fratto]

Joe, I replaced both norgrens and the top control valve with new.