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[QUOTE=Joe Cannarozzi;15084]I'm moving forward with Harrys suggestions.
The drywall is not a problem. I wonder why he suggested to put drywall on the floor and ceiling only? What about the calcium blanket, only on the walls and not the ceiling? I think both on both walls and ceiling? Floor, drywall only? Drywall seems odd for the floor too? I'll have to call Hary I think he's gone.
Joe, Read Harry's post #10 again. He says to cover all surfaces with the fire rated dry wall.;)
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Here is where I am now and how I got there.
I recieved a box of samples from Soundown corp. (overnight air I might add).
Quite a selection of products they sent me, and seem like great people there as well. I have decided what I will be using and will place an order for the following.
Attachment 1347
This is what the industry is now using in place of the lead sandwich. It is 2 inches thick. There is now a dense composite material instead of the lead. I am using this on the sidewalls plus I will aditionally reaply the lead sheets first, from the old insulation that I have cleaned the old foam from.
The ceiling and the back wall will be the same and additionally will have the 5/8 fire rated drywall Harry suggested, after the lead but before the foam sandwich. Some clearence issues on the side walls to accomidate the drywall prevents it.
Attachment 1348
This is the outer layer, White Mylar, washable, they sell seam tape of the same. (This picture is for the purpose of displaying the white mylar, I will not add an additional inch of foam with it.)
Attachment 1349
Here is the perferated aluminum cover. Its powdercoated white. I am holding off on this step till I find out what the cost of the gen. repair will be. It can be installed afterwards without much extra fuss. The outward facing edge will be finished off with a (polished) metal end cap (2in. C-channel) that was previously there.
The backside of the door is still a question untill I get the gen back in and close the door and guage exactly how much room I have inbetween.
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Here is what I decided with the floor.
I cleaned the exzisting floor as good as I could then put down some thick rubber mat for a vibration dampener and secondarily, for additional insulation.
Attachment 1350
Attachment 1351
This is not from sounddown. It is a cheap replacement I had laying around. I doubled it up and turned the pieces face to face and left the shipping plastic attatched to it.
Attachment 1352
The upper right corner ( kinda dark) is where the exhaust pipe goes through the floor. I stayed 4 inches away from it with both products and will fill that area with lead and exhaust wrap around the pipe, wrapping uniterupted around the pipe, right through the hole.
Attachment 1353
I then took more garage scraps. These are oak sheets that were left over from the kitchen cabinates. They finish the exposed ends of cabinates. I think if this oak wasn't already stained and poleyurithaned I would have stained it dark to match the window trim in the cabin;) Mabye I'll upgrade the top cover for the radiator from laminated to Corian:rolleyes:
Attachment 1354
I had some stainless finish washers for a nicer look. I am going to continue to apply a coat of urathane a day until the gen. comes back:D Most of this you aren't going to be able to see with the gen. back in but I'll know it's there.
Although I wanted to add drywall between the mat and the wood I decided against it because while removing the gen. there was just enough travel up with completly tight slings to clear the slide, with it out, before the top of the fork gets up against the bar for the door that goes across the top of the door opening.
The bottom of the bus is sprayed with expanding foam 3 or 4 inches thick right from the factory.
Another great rally contest just came to mind, quitest gen.:rolleyes:
I'll hold off on costs untill the last post.
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Joe, it's looking great. I can't wait to see it in real life. I'm thinking of next year for mine. My foam will crumble when touched, so it's time for a re-do.
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Did some good work today. Mocked up the drywall on the walls a few times and was able to adjust the door arms just enough to be able to accomidate the 5/8 fire rated drywall on the side walls without getting the door too much out of center in the opening.
Attachment 1366
I pulled this bracket and shimmed it just enough for the door arms to clear when they are closing, the lead and drywall now will come all the way to the door. This is why I thought I would not be able to drywall the sides but now the whole box will start out with lead and fire rated drywall under the foam, not just the top and back.
Attachment 1367
I packed the voids in the wall where the 3/4 plywood was over cut to accomidate the door hardware and then leaded and drywalled
Attachment 1368
This is where the insulation used to stop, everything outside that point was uncovered and just as you see it. Now it will be lead sheet and drywall right up to the door.
Attachment 1369
Here is a picture of the ceiling at the door. You can see where the old insulation ended. I will be able to go all the way out to the outer wall with the lead, drywall and insulation here as well.
Attachment 1370
I inadvertiantly found a good way to insulate the backside of the door when the time comes. If you remove the nut from the end of the lower arm with the internal spring it will come to rest in this manner.
If Deb gives me some time on the 4th I should have the compartment almost ready to put the gen back in. UPS tracking says our new insulation will be here tomorrow.
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Here is the slide after it was cleaned. I washed it in solvent and rinsed, and repeated those steps about 5 times, then turned it over and did the same thing.
Attachment 1371
The brown is the old color and we are using Ivory for the new color instead of white to give things a little contrast against the white insulation. Also because this paint is rated for 1200 degrees and is plentiful at Home Depo for touch-ups.
Attachment 1372
If you look where the coller is coming through the rubber mount you will see it is cocked. This is because a bracket failed and the weight of the gen. over time tweeked them. You will also see where I added a new piece of angle, front and bottom, to straighten things out and add support.
Hopfully I will be able to coordinate getting the new exhaust flex pipe this week. They are going to weld the correct diamiter collers on the ends for us. The new exhaust wrap is on will-call and I think I will use stainless braided lines for the fuel. I'm leaning towards two, 4in round, clear LED back-up lights, on a seperate switch, for better lighting.
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Joe, For your lighting.http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRbrite.htm
Easy surface mount!
JOE: per your request here is the main web site.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/
I thought you would just Google: West Mountain to make the connection.
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Joe
How hard is it drop that door flat like you did to put the insulation on the back? Looks like a great way to make a picnic table next to the coach. Would it be easy to do this for a table under the awning?
GregM
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I like a guy who is thinking outside the box.
It's the lower arm with the small internal spring that I removed. There is only 1 on each door. I suppose if you replace the bolt that attatches the arm with something like a wing-nut style head it would be more convienient.
You would have to protect the door seal with a smallpiece of something so you don't damage it with the door in that position and I did not see if it would hold any conciderable weight or not but a leg would solve that if nessessary.
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Haven't gone any further on that bay this week but have picked up some new parts.
Attachment 1378
The top is the new corrigated exhaust pipe and the bottom is the old spiral style. Although the old one is still in good shape in terms of no visible leaks when you hold it from one end and shake it its pretty loose. The new one, 60 inches with end collers with dimensions to my spec welded on, was 65 bucks.
Attachment 1379
It's way more flexible than the spiral one. No problem bending it to this radius, capabale of a little tighter still.
Attachment 1380
The insulation came too. I'll glue it and drywall screw it. Screwing into it is like trying to screw into carpet. I was told to take a long small punch and heat it up and melt pilot holes first. Can also be predrilled with the drill in reverse.
Jim nice lead on that light bar I'm gonna try it. I can hook it directly to the bar for the door that goes across the top of the opening for the bay and use the 24volt power already there off the micro switch that feeds the pitiful lighting supplied by prevo. If it works good I think I'll use it in the engine compartment too.