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Gary, it depends on what you have. My unit was a Seaward, and any change many some easy cuts in the counter top. Unlike many, I was left with a gap regardless of replacement unit I picked. That's why you'll see the border piece of stainless on the counter. It matches the unit, so most wouldn't even notice it.
Some factory installed units were 120V while, while others were 240V. As long as the current wiring is of the correct gauge, and it should be, you're good to go. If the one you have is 120V, you can use the same wire, just put domes red tape on the wire wire and take it off the neural bus and move it to the circuit breaker. A 240V breaker has 2 power connections instead of 1 that is found on 120V breakers. You may have to move breakers given a 240V breaker has to straddle a line 1 and line 2 connection tab. Okay, if your current unit is 120V, the circuit breaker change may be more than some want to tackle.
Check your current breaker our the unit and see if it's 120V.
And yes, we had to change our cookware.
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Gil, that's exactly what we do for retro of a 220v induction. May I suggest to anyone thinking about this to check out the Summit unit. It is more of a drop-in replacement as far as size goes, and requires the least amount of hassle physically. Plus, at least the last time we put one in for someone, the unit came with cookware also! So a win-win. Just a thought.
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Thanks everybody
think that is the next upgrade.
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Conclusion...
We just returned from a long weekend trip and the new cooktop received two thumbs up from the chef. It's just too bad we had to change the cookware.
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Wow your backsplash tile and your countertop look exactly like my bus nice job
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Hey Gil, the stovetop looks great, what’s the Part number and when can you install it , ha ha, ok just the part number
thanks Ed
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We have a similar success story replacing the 220vac Gaggenau quartz two burner unit with a 220vac two burner induction unit that I selected because it fit in the same hole requiring no modification at all. Took all of 30 minutes to do the change over. For those times when we are on 30 amps or dry camping and don't want to run the generator, we purchased an inexpensive 120vac single burner counter top unit selected because it is a proper width to fit into one of the kitchen drawers. I shortened the power cord so it can plug into the 120vac outlet at the end of the kitchen without excess cord dangling all over. It is also easier to store with the shorter cord. No problem running it off 30 amps or the inverters when no other appliances are in use. My wife loves that because it frees up all the counter space when she does not have to remove the stove top cover piece. We spent two months on the beach in Mexico this winter and even though we were plugged into 50 amp power she used the counter top unit most of the time. Be sure you have pure sine wave inverters as some, if not all, counter top units electronic controls won't like modified square wave inverters. These induction units are not only way faster than the quartz units (so you use fewer watts to accomplish the same task), they are also easier to control since you set the temp by a 1 to 10 scale that is very repeatable. So, for cooking things like fish or scallops that burn easily or get tough if over cooked, you can learn the proper setting/time and then know it will be the same amount of heat each time you cook them. Boiling water for french press morning coffee takes 5 to 6 minutes on the 120vac counter top unit and 4 minutes on the 220vac unit. This all worked so well for us that I bought another cheap countertop unit that stores in the outdoor entertainment space for when the weather is warm in the mornings or for when we want something done on the stovetop to go along with BBQ outside. BTW, we have used the cheap induction cookware and expensive stuff with equal success. Can't tell any difference.
Jerry
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Jerry, Can you provide more details on the specific unit you used to replace your Gaggenau?
Model number?
And what year/model/builder coach do you have?