Non Bus Related Question

I figured since a good number of POG members are engineers and manufactures or just knowledgeable in general I'd give this question a try here.

What is pictures is our new kitchen with the leading edge of the granite bar unpolished becuase I want to put a piece of 1 1/2 inch thick x 5" or 6" down cherry wood against and expoxy it in place. I was at a restaurant bar and saw it and liked it. What I want to do is put a very thick coat of clear over it to give it depth. 1/4" at least, maybe 3/8" or even a bit more. Nobody I've talked to has been able to help and I've asked enough local tradesman to give up on finding the answer locally. So I decided I need to plan on getting smooth forming material and making an frame larger than the cherry wood trim and pouring the finish coat this way (or rather dipping it in the product)

What I need is recomendations on what product to use to pour in the form. I'm sure I'm probabley looking for a two part epoxy that is as clear as possible. I estimate I'll need 3-5 gallons total. I once ordered a product (never got around to trying it) that came in 5 gallon pails and was two part epoxy and was water thin but I can't recall or find it again. One of it's uses was for making injection mold prototypes where a large volume of product was not required. Since my mold is simple, I don't require this to neccessarily be water think like the other stuff was. What's most important is a product that is both clear and hard. I'm sure it will get some scratches with time but I can wet sand it and buff it out once a year or as needed.

Suggestions ? Anyone know of a dirctory of forums or point me in the right direction to a forum of a trade where those expoxy or coating experts might be able to field the question ?

Jeffrey,

We use this product all the time to create just what you have in mind. (Bar top, dining tables, hostess stand, etc.) Ultra Glo.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=31

You have to use within about 15 minutes of mixing and you need to use a propane torch to grace the top of the mix after pouring. This will remove all the air bubbles prior to setting.

The trick is to have more than you need. Make sure your table is level and there is plastic on the floor around the table. You will pour the epoxy on the table and let it flood over the sides down onto the plastic. It will self level.

The amazing part is that any graphics that are on the table prior to pouring can be a little drab, but add the epoxy and the colors will just pop after drying.

Let me know if I can help.

mm

Mike

Here is the 2-part resin

http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

Here is a sprayable product that accomplishes the same effect.

http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/starpage.asp?star=EUB

Having used both, I prefer the ML Cambel method and here's why.

1. Applied with spray equipment (use a good organics respirator and ventilate well)

2. Can be sanded off, repaired and touched-up if needed.

3. Build is to your desired thickness.

4. Any error on the mold and you've lost your work and $6 - 12/bdft select cherry and probably the mold.

5. Mold is a lot of additional work if you are molding against exposed finished surfaces.

6. Open time is much larger on the pour.

<TABLE width=300 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle>70° F
80° F
90° F



</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>4-7 hours
3-6 hours
2-5 hours



</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>72 hours
48 hours
36 hours






</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
On the spray :


DRYING TIME:

Dust Free 45 minutes

Dry to Touch 3 hours

Air Dry to Stack 12 – 24 hours

7. Pour does not provide a sealer/primer. The sovents can extract pigment from the wood. Doesn't hurt the finish, but does reduce the impresion of the depth of the finish. The spray system does have sealers and primers.

8. Pour system gives you one and only one level of gloss. There are several with the spray system.

I think that that summaries the main points. PM me if you have specific questions and I'll try to help.

P.S. Build in the spray is 12 millimeter = 0.472 inch and with some attention to detail, you could probably go thicker.

P.P.S. Try this site http://www.woodweb.com/index.html for a finishing forum.

Jeff, give this company a call. The guy knows his stuff and is very helpful. Also, his prices are very competitive.
http://www.raka.com/