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The Early 80's
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Attachment 15778
End of day 1. 1983 Liberty XL. Back 4 hubs stripped down to the spindles.
The owner is up to his armpits in grease. He wanted to help so ive lined up an entire day , tomorrow, of cleaning and degreasing all these hubs and brake components. I wonder if he will be as excited to help next time? He saved himself a days labor thsts what it would take me to do it, 1 entire day.
Tomorrow ill pull brake chambers and hoses, airbags, rebuild the air dryer and put new ride height valves.
So far she is being a good patient.
Thank u for the refferal Mr. Boater Al
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Attachment 15780
A good days work. R there others out there that get this dirty or is it just me? Busted knuckles and greasy jeans thats me. My knees were just as dirty as my shorts, I cleaned up for the photo.
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LOL Joe that is exactly what I looked like a couple weeks ago when I did my wheel seal. Joe I was wondering what is the process of rebuilding the air dryer?
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So Joe - you are wanting some dirty pics. Might have better luck on some other forums??
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Hey Mark, your 99 could have a couple different ones. Does it have a lid that looks like a 10 gal hat? Thats an AD9. Is it a spin on? Those r Haldex, This one is an AD 2 I know u dont have this one. Yours will be forward of the drives, drivers side. If u have no history with your 99 Id put a bran new one first then rebuild every 2 years going forward.
Billy get yer mind out of the gutter.
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Ok. Here we go. Ive jotted down better than a dozen things that someone will encounter on a similar repair on early 80s. So far my list only concerns the rear, havent even peeked at the front (the notes and thought will expand when i get there) Im pretty confident it will be interesting stuff.
Im taking a long 3hr mid day brake during this one and its perfect for me to allow me to have u follow along. Should take me almost a week. If u r planing on doing similar the thread will be priceless.
Even though its 37yr old the design of the rear suspension has been unaltered right up to 2020. It has been beefed up a half dozen times here and there but the design remains the same. Thats a 40 year run!!!!!!
U will see. Im working methodicly and cant wait to get to the finish line on this 83. It will be one of my finest moments rubbin on this old girl and it should turn out to be a damn good thread too. Im sharing as much the relevent stuff as i can.
Item 1
Lets start with the air dryer.
Attachment 15781
The AD2 (air dryer 2). Standing vertical cilindrical and center photo. All parts still available. It is very easily serviced on the bus. Remove RR tag tire and wheel to acess easier.
Attachment 15782
Here is the base on the ground this is what u look up at. Remove the air line first then the wire going to the heating element. Then the 3 1/2 in bolts hold 3 clips (in the forground in the pic above) take them off next. After that tap on the base with a rubber mallet driving it up into the housing sufficiantly enough to get thw large snap ring out.
That will get u to the ground like the image.
Attachment 15783
Once the base is off u expose the cartrage. u r looking up here at the base of the dryer still on the bus. A 3/4 in bolt.
Attachment 15784
When u turn out the 3/4 in bolt and pull it out the bottom this is what they look like. Reverse the removal process to install.
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Attachment 15785
here is the purge port. If u want to rebuild this its a seporate kit.
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here is the heating element. It too is a seporate kit.
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There r 2 choices for the manner to refresh the dessicant. Like the photo or a bag of beeds and some screens and cloth filters and u can dissassemble the canister and repack the exzisting one. I prefer the alternative.
Attachment 15788
Heres a m.i.f. (maintence induced failure) . I dont care who the hell u r when u r working on 20 year old stuff, and older, there will be m.i.f.s.
The old canister base broke off and it was like a finger was removed from the dam and i had a mess to cleann up and had to then devise a way to get the old canister pryed out of the housing. Thats ok. Theres gonna be mifs, and i always win fear not.
QUESTIONS?? If not Ill proceed to the next item.
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Joe,
Great info as always!
Because you weren't in Florida and Prevost was having a sale on air dryers and parts, I spent the day at Prevost. They knocked out a couple of things before our trip west. The rest of the stuff is waiting for you.
Attachment 15789
No sense in driving to Prevost and not walking down to 4 Rivers BBQ for lunch.
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Mmmmmmmm. That looks good. I got Campbells chicken noodle on the burner. What gave u the impression i was messin with yer stuff. Post like that aint doin u no favors U better be nice to me. I got feelings u know.
Gill set yer GPS for no tolls no freeways. Have a great time Darline dont take no crap from Gill make him do everything on command.
This is going to be a good thread buddy, i got notes.
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End of day 2. Both rear corners stripped of brakes down to the spindles and now its suspension has also been stripped from it too. Then it got a good swabbin with a power washer and a 50/50 mix of aluminum brightner and water in a pump sprayer. Shes prepped for paint. www.Por15.com This is what i would use for undercarrage. To replicate what the factory did u will need silver black and grey all 3 colors. U can shoot this stuff but I apply it with brush and roller. This is one of those amazing products. If when u reseal any unused product if u dont clean the rim of rhe can before replacing the lid........The lid gets welded it u cant open it that way. Good product!!!!!
All the spray foam on top of the wheels gets undercoating from a rattle can.
Attachment 15794
Heres my test pilot fir the week. Got him good and greasy didnt I!!! Got another lost sheep for ya Jamie be lookin for Chad in the member requests!
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Back to buisness 83 chassis restoration.
Item 2.
The maxis (emergency brake chambers) on the drives.
Attachment 15796
Old and DANGEROUS. If u loosten this clamp where im pointing without having the main spring caged as the clamp gets to the loose enough point the 2 halves will seporate in a violent explosion. Be a good experiment for mith busters.
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ONLY remove this clamp where im pointing in this pic on the old chambers that facilitate both. This is the service diaphram and it has a spring but its week and far from deadly. The modern 30/36s r designed with only 1 removable clamp, the service diaphram clamp (the safe one).
Attachment 15799
Here is another m.i.f. Any brass street elbows this vintage remove them for more modern streeelbows they r way more robust. It took very very little force to snap this. This line is pressurized to colapse the main spring if it snaps goin down the road this hub locks up.
Attachment 15800
Then there r these dirt boots for the pushrods. All prevo with drum brakes drive axle had these if yours r damaged or missing thats a points deduction. U dont see these on trucks. Its one of the many things u only see on prevo. U want to have a special camper this is one of the things that contributes to that. Keep it whole. This piece has its own part number the 30 36s do not include it.
Attachment 15801
When u buy the chambers from prevo they r a bit more and worth it.
Where im pointing in the pic above, the 2 halves always come clocked correctly, the relationship between the fittings on the side and the mounting studs on rhe end with the pushrod. Others dont clock them. 1 to the good.
Attachment 15802
The pushrod always comes cut to the perfect length. Others dont, very important. Thats 2
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It comes with the correct clevis, others dont. 3 reasons to get them from prevo.