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We need to keep the rig out of Florida for 6 months, but would like it to be as close as possible. I found a couple of storage places near Valdosta, Ga, but so far only one with electricity. She tells me it is 15 amp service.
With the fancy Liberty power management system, is that enough to intermittently power a Cruise Air to keep humidity down, and keep the fridge cold?
On a similar note, any suggestions for storage or long term site off of I75 in south Georgia?
I cannot speak to the issue of availability of storage. I can speak with conviction about how a coach is to be stored when not in use, specifically a Liberty.
You need cool inside storage (or heated in the winter). Keep the sun off the coach. It will preserve the finish, it will keep the interior from fading and most importantly inside storage away from temperature extremes protects the interior laminates which can be damaged by elevated temperatures. Your tires will benefit from inside storage and even under a canopy you have no protection from hail storms which will do serious harm to a coach.
You also need to keep it powered up and the inverters "on". This will maintain the house batteries.
My coach is 15 paces from where I type this and I still feel compelled to step in the garage at least once a day to verify nothing is amiss. I will not bore you with things you should check, but suffice it to say these are not meant to be sitting and should be used. At least in covered storage if you are concerned about mustiness and humidity in the interior, enclosed storage allows you to open the windows for circulation. Enclosed storage with the bus supported and the weight off the wheels is better for your tires.
Others may feel comfortable leaving an AC or two on, but things mechanical break. They may protect the interior better than opening the windows, but what happens in the event of a power outage? On a Liberty they do not run off the inverters so once they shut down will they restart? I would have to check.
The Liberty power management system is not "fancy" or unlike that on any other coach in that we have dual inverters and certain cicuits run through them and they maintain the battery charge. We do not have a chassis battery charger I deem acceptable for continuous use so those batteries have to be shut off and their voltage monitored.
The best thing to do is use the coach. Drive it. Live in it. Exercise it. But if you have to let it set for long periods at least check on it frequently. And most of all secure the electrical power connections such that nobody can turn it off or diconnect the power. Unless you store it with the house put to sleep (everything off) it won't take long before the house batteries go dead.
If your question is whether or not a 15 amp is sufficient for an a/c to periodically run and also keep the refrigrator cold, I am not an electrician but the a/c alone will blow the 15 amp. If I am not mistaken, the a/c's pull about 18 amps apiece? I would guess the frig at 5 to 8 amps? I really don't know but if the a/c tries to draw the amps, you can lose the program board easily ($380). Jon and a lot of other guys can comment on this better than I can but be careful.
Pres
Because of the Invertors , charging your batteries, you need 30 amps minimum to plug into. My coac, I can turn off one Invertor and still maintain my batterries but your A/C is about 12 amps, refer is 8 to 10 amps, and then the invertor about 12 amps or more.
You could pay an electrician to install power if it is available at the bldg. somewhere.
You know, the sales process is typically overwhelming, but I recall something along the lines of the coach automatically making up for inadequate amperage from the batteries, then charging the batteries again when the load drops. That's what I was thinking about when I posted this.
There is not enough current in a 15 amp circuit to do all that you want while stored.
Did you get that in writing? What happens if it is hot and the AC is always pulling 13 amp? And one thing almost never mentioned. If the 15 amp service is GFCI protected just plugging the coach in will trip it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawbonz
Writing? HA! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Wehrenberg
I know little of electric. Why would the GFCO trip?
The bus transfer switch is on a timer and the GFCI senses a ground fault before the transfer switch responds to the shore power.
Ο διακόπτης μεταφοράς του λεωφορείου είναι με χρονοδιακόπτη και τις αισθήσεις GFCI ένα βραχυκύκλωμα γείωσης πριν από το διακόπτη μεταφοράς ανταποκρίνεται στην εξουσία ακτή.
That's just what I was going to say.
s'all greek to me! :cool:
I leave my coach plugged into 50 amp service in a fully enclosed unit. It is 70 X 22.5' which provides me with room for a small shop setup. Door height is 14'.
Unlike our wealthy members in TN, my unit is not climate controlled so I pay the electric bill to run a couple of the A/C's in the summer. I usually set them at 78-80 and spend maybe $80/month on electric in the peak months. Not too bad, and all the stuff Jon talks about stays a reasonable temp inside the coach. Biggest problem with this setup is a power failure. Knock wood, none in 2 years.
I would ask any of the places you check about installing 50amp service. Nice to have the full power option should you need it upon return from a trip, etc.
County electrical code requires gfi on all breakers. Is there anything that can be done to get my coach to not trip the gfi?
replying to old thread but after doing much advanced searching did not find another discussion.
Yes, the national code requires GFCI protection to outdoor outlets for 15/20A outlets. Some have made them work by only supplying the power to one leg of service in the coach.