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I cannot get this to work off A/C power when supplied like it should. Works fine on D/C.
No parts available on this one.
I was wondering if I opened it up what I may find in there and if it is possible to separate those 2 power sources to make that switch manual?
If I had to design a dual voltage device like the Norcold I would install a converter in the circuit for the 120 VAC to create 12VDC.
I don't know how they did it, but my initial look would be to see if that "converter" is functioning. It's not rocket science because that is what every cheap battery charger is with some additional features.
Jon I have popped the top and looked in there and I think that is exactly how they do it. I can see a large transformer!:)
Thanks for the response. I will take it apart to at least check that. Maybe a call to there tech help will answer that for sure. The manual does mention a inverter and what not to do in wiring hookup as to not damage it but I just assumed that they had 12 volt going to A/C not the other way around.
Joe, I said converter, but it could be an inverter. Whatever they are doing they are taking one of the inputs and changing it over to the other voltage. I favor using 12V to run the compressor because I think to invert 12VDC to 120VAC is more costly. So far my vote is with a converter.
We leave ours on 12 volt also because it runs cooler (temp in the compartment, not the freezer). I'm guessing the converter generates a fair amount of heat converting 120 volts AC to 12 V DC.
Mike
You also make a good point Mike. I would still like to get both ends of it right if I can.
I need to get a new A/C D/C small fridge for my boat and jeez, the cost. Crazy for those things. How can it be so much more than a small fridge people buy for their offices.
Anyone figured out a way to spend less than $1,000 for a small fridge ?
Simple Jeff and you don't even need to use Craigs list, unless you want to save more.
When we first bought our bus our inverter was not functioning. I purchased a 12 volt, 1200 watt inverter from Pep-Boys for 99 bucks new. More than enough to power a bar fridge, ice maker, stereo, TV, some lights and and outlet, and simultaneously.
We already had the fridge but I think you can pick them up for under 200, I'd still try Craigs list for the fridge:rolleyes:
Either take a minute and switch power sources at the outlet, manually, or spend the bucks on an ac/dc unit.
Joe- I'm down with the inverter for the fridge and the size you suggest would be just about right for the boat. There is no inverter or house batteries at all at present. I got the idea that the marine fridges were somehow less power hungry. I guess it's just the D/C portion that drives the price up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Cannarozzi
John- Regarding your post, could one modify a little standard fridge to be dedicated D/C with the converter you suggest if you think that would draw less power ? It would then be dedicated D/C or would I put a small manual transfer switch around the fridge somewhere for when I was running the gen or plugged into shore power ?
On the older Norcold AC/DC bay fridge/freezer units, there are (2) fuses, one for 110v and one for 12v. The unit should be taken apart on a bench, because you'll need to take the metal surround off the end. It should be
screwed in place. Watch out for residual charges on the electronics. Even
with power disconnected, you can get shocked from the capacitors in the
control circuits. When you consider the replacement cost is in the $1400.00
range, an hour or two diagnosing is definitely worth your time. Those units
are really durable, and I have seen several that have been running for 19 years (that's right!) without any problems.:D