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Can the air bags be inflated with the auxiliary air compressor so that one does not have to start the engine to do so.
I am looking for a Schrader valve or port somewhere to artificially inflate the air bags.
Does such a port exist, if not, has anyone added one and where did you insert it into the system?
JIM :confused:
I have two already in my coach. One in the front driver's side electrical bay, and one on passenger side at the rear by chassis batteries. Both are schrader valves and you can fill the whole system from them. Mine is a 2006 model year chassis though...don't know about your 1997...
I have used it to top up my air, and it is very easy and fast.
Hi Jim. There is an air port in the front compartment under the drivers side and an air port at the back compartment starboard side , under the air filter. You can inflate the air bags , but you need to have the ignition on and your air switches on for raising the coach. It takes some time depending on your compressor size.
Jim, when I become aware of a little "leaning action" especially in this weather (warm/cold) I use my Air Compressor that I carry with me to quickly air up the Aux System. It is much faster than my 12v pump and I just plug it into my Shore Post and the 50' hose reaches everything. Keeps me from having to start the coach for a simple chore. Like the others above, I use the Schrader valve in the Drivers Bottom Bay and it is relatively quick. The Compresser has a pressure valve that I set about 110-115 and it shuts off so that I can "listen" I use the same compressor to top off the tires when/if needed. It doesn't put out the CFM that the bus does, but it is adequate.
Great and thanks guys, I thought those ports were only for the brake system.
I'll try it and see.
JIM
Unless you have changed the compressor on your bus and unless it is seriously different from mine if you set your compressor cutoff pressure to 110 or greater you will have sufficient pressure in the system to level the coach, including lifting the front end.
It takes about 100 PSI maximum to raise my front. The rears lift around 70 or 80.
All you need is to turn on the key and operate the controls, but remember the air compressor has a fairly large switching differential so you need to level the coach before it cuts off or you need to bleed air down to the cut in pressure if you are below the pressure required to lift the portion of the coach you want to raise.
You can make a big project out of it by airing up the aux air system with external compressors but it is nice to use the one on board. But plan on burning it out if you constantly try to use it for leveling. I set mine at an 80 PSI cutout because it is much more than I need. If I have to level I just start the engine. No sense sending a boy to do a man's job if you know what I mean.
I see it does work fine, first time I tried doing it that way.
What it won't do is raise the tag.
My compressor is set at 100psi.
JIM
Two questions:
Why would you ever want to raise the tag using auxiliary air?
If you have a case of the leans so bad you contemplate using the aux air to level the coach why would you not just fix the problem causing the leans?
I connected my 120 psi aux comp to the front schader valve due to left front lean & the pump ran for @ 2 secs & stopped. Wasn`t sure if Terry just tuned ignition switch to "on" with HWH system in "air" position or what ? 2001 Vantare.
I don't know anything about how Vantare set up its aux air compressor, but I presume when it operates it pressurizes the aux air system in its entirety, and not just the house portion. Having said that it suggests using aux air pressure (as provided by the aux air compressor and system) to add pressure to the front schrader valve is somewhat like trying to pick yourself up by the boot straps.
You could be correct Jon. Looking at the Air schematic it looks as if you`re pressrizing the whole system. Found a leaking elbow connector where the air line attaches & wonder how to go about repairing it. Thier are two elbow connectors attached with 5 inches of hose between them. It`s leaking at the ferrell which holds the hose inside the elbow connector. any way to repair w/o removing the connector?
Zmax, for your fix you need at a minimum a new DOT rated ferule, of the correct size for the tube. Being that you said the connection points were only five inches apart, just cutting the end of the old tubing for new material for the new ferule to work you may have to buy some tubing as well (If the tubing is bent in a "U" shape be sure it is not too tight of a bend so it does not "CRIMP"). In that case you will need two new ferrules. You can usually purchase what you need at a better NAPA parts store, that is one that sells to truckers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zmax73
The other parts of the fitting assembly are interchangeable and reusable, if they are not damaged. You need to insert the tubing support (small piece of metal tubing) into the tube end slide the ferrule nut over the tube and then the ferrule last and install into the fitting and tighten. Tighten tightly but not too tight. There are a specified number of turns of the nut after the ferrule contacts to the seat, but off the top of my head I do not remember how many (it varies for different size tubing).
For proper results be sure all the parts of the fitting assembly are there, body, support ferrule and nut.
Note: regular hardware store/auto parts/plumbing fitting parts are not interchangeable with DOT fitting parts.
JIM :)
What Jim said.