New member ... new to me 2001 Marathon XLVII

I've had several RVs in the past, included diesel pushers and finally decided to made the move to bus.

Not being made of money caused me to have a budget, therefore setting the age window fairly strict. After much fit/finish research online and in person, I decided on which converter I was going to buy. After much looking and having a particular floor plan in mind, I finally found the coach.

It was 800 miles away. I flew down to look at for nearly a day. Totally insufficient, especially when you don't have any idea what you are looking for aside from my isn't this pretty. As recommended elsewhere, I should have paid some qualified dude to check over the coach first. Being much more informed may/may not have changed my decision, but would at least have been informed...which is always good.

I asked the seller, a prominent consignor, a bunch of questions in silly hopes I'd get honest answers rather than typical used-car salesmenship. I showed up for the final walkthru/purchase and a few issues still raised my eyebrows, but on the whole I wanted the coach, so I closed the deal. Now, don't get me wrong, the coach is not a nightmare and being a 2001 I fully expected to have a few things to resolve.

So, I have a few questions about the things I need to resolve. I've look and haven't found exactly my issues already posted so here it goes.

1. The coach has 3 Cruisairs. The galley unit seems to cool just fine, however it doesn't activate the aux heat. The control is set using the double-tab and the heat indicator blinks and when the temperature is reached, the heat indicator lights but I don't hear any relay and neither the Wabesto heat nor cadet will run. Breakers are good. The 12V and 110V heat are on in the closet as the other two units work fine. I swapped control panels with another unit with no difference. If I activate the manual mode on the techlink module under the sink for the galley heat, the Wabesto fan will run. So it seems like the there is no relay telling the techlink to charge the Wabesto relay. Where should I look next? Is there something on the Cruisair unit itself that could be checked/reset? If I have both the 110V heat and 12V heat buttons on, is both the Wabesto AND cadet heat supposed to run at the same time?

2. When buying the coach, the step cover would not operator properly. They replaced the piston that extends the cover. But, I think it now has an air leak. If I leave the step cover retracted, I can hear the air leak. If the step cover is extended, I don't hear any air. Haven't tried to get to the bottom of it, but it does tend to drain the aux air tank fairly quick. Speaking of aux air tank ... can one of you confirm my understanding: Front and Rear air tanks are for the break system. The Aux is used for the pocket door, step, and ride height/leveling. Do I have that right?

3. I think I have a curbside rear air leak of some sort, unless somehow it is related to the step cover causing the aux air tank to drain. I am leaving the step cover extended overnight to see if the coach leans over overnight. It has with the step cover retracted. As I said, could be totally unrelated as I thought the air bags shouldn't let air back out once in unless the bag itself is leaking or the valve is leaking/defective.

4. I'm fairly sure the 6 4D batteries need replacing. I can only be without power for about 2 to 4 hours before the generator is started. Where is the best place/price to get them replaced. Those suckers are a bit expensive and look to be a little bit of PITA to change out.

5. A previous owner swapped out the TVs and appears to have abandoned the techlink monitoring at the front drop down TV and the dash. The dash monitor was replaced with a Kenwood system that has the backup camera, but didn't attempt to hook up the techlink on another video source. So a little fiddling around with that to make it whole. They must have an uncapped coax or some cable around the a power supply because I am getting a lot of interference in the bedroom view of techlink screens. So I've got to track that down to get a clean picture.

I'm sure there is more I'm missing, and have yet to find. Even with these issues, I'm happy to join the ranks of Prevost ownership. It is much like the large boats I've had in the past...another money pit. But like the boats, I plan to enjoy the heck out of it and make it better than I got it. These are not issues, they are opportunities.

Anyway, if you have wisdom or insights on my current list of ... opportunities, please forward them along.

- Terry

Terry,

You likely have (6) 4DL batteries, contact me for a great price on Lifeline Batteries. I can have you batteries in a couple days.

Hey Terry congratulations and welcome to the asylum. Let me try to help you with your lean. Whatever corner it's leaning to the left rear or the right rear the The fenders hinge up there's Clips all the way at the bottom before the drive axle and after the tag axle release them flip the Thunders up and find the air tank that is associated with each airbag the front airbag air tank is Forwar of the airbag behind the shock and the ride height valve the tag bag air tank is very easily visible hanging off the outside of the frame rail the air tank for the rear-drive bag is tucked inside the frame rail but if you look you can see it without too much effort soap up all those drains on those air tanks and see if that's your leak often times it is and it's a very quick and inexpensive repair either replace them with new drains or plug them as I do all of them. You'll never get moisture to that point in the chassis even if the air dryer hasn't been serviced correctly but that's your call hope this helps.

Congrats on the purchase. Sorry to hear it wasn't well represented.

1. The coach has 3 Cruisairs. The galley unit seems to cool just fine, however it doesn't activate the aux heat. The control is set using the double-tab and the heat indicator blinks and when the temperature is reached, the heat indicator lights but I don't hear any relay and neither the Wabesto heat nor cadet will run. Breakers are good. The 12V and 110V heat are on in the closet as the other two units work fine. I swapped control panels with another unit with no difference. If I activate the manual mode on the techlink module under the sink for the galley heat, the Wabesto fan will run. So it seems like the there is no relay telling the techlink to charge the Wabesto relay. Where should I look next? Is there something on the Cruisair unit itself that could be checked/reset? If I have both the 110V heat and 12V heat buttons on, is both the Wabesto AND cadet heat supposed to run at the same time?


Reply: Yes, both 12 and 120 volt heat will work together. I believe the TechLink interface is mounted on or next to the SMX/CruiseAir control box. Although this doesn't sound like the problem, the cadet heaters are activated by motorized circuit breakers in the main circuit breaker panels, which you likely have a few.

2. When buying the coach, the step cover would not operator properly. They replaced the piston that extends the cover. But, I think it now has an air leak. If I leave the step cover retracted, I can hear the air leak. If the step cover is extended, I don't hear any air. Haven't tried to get to the bottom of it, but it does tend to drain the aux air tank fairly quick. Speaking of aux air tank ... can one of you confirm my understanding: Front and Rear air tanks are for the break system. The Aux is used for the pocket door, step, and ride height/leveling. Do I have that right?

Reply: If you are hearing air leak in one direction of the step well slide, it's likely the ram. That would seem strange if it was just replaced. BTW, most of those rams are a PITA to get to.

You have 4 air systems. On the Prevost side there's the front and rear braking systems and Prevost auxiliary for the suspension, engine air bags, and little else. Then there's Marathon auxiliary air for everything Marathon air. Most converters combine Prevost and converter aux air systems. Marathon typically does not. Go to the bay under the driver's seat. On the right side wall you should find an air valve with maybe a yellow handle. Marathon generally attached a tag reading to leave off unless the Marathon aux compressor failed.


3. I think I have a curbside rear air leak of some sort, unless somehow it is related to the step cover causing the aux air tank to drain. I am leaving the step cover extended overnight to see if the coach leans over overnight. It has with the step cover retracted. As I said, could be totally unrelated as I thought the air bags shouldn't let air back out once in unless the bag itself is leaking or the valve is leaking/defective.
Reply: Suspension leaks are unrelated to any other leaks. Raise the tag, level the coach, and see if it still leans. This will help you determine whether its tag or drive axle related. It will be the bags, Norgren air control valves, ping tanks, and/or air fittings.


4. I'm fairly sure the 6 4D batteries need replacing. I can only be without power for about 2 to 4 hours before the generator is started. Where is the best place/price to get them replaced. Those suckers are a bit expensive and look to be a little bit of PITA to change out.

Reply: What is on? Air conditioners? If they are Lifelines, check for a 1" or so round sticker on the side. It will have the month and year represented by 2 letters. As much as the cost, if they are less than about 5 years old is to have them tested.

Also, someone may have set the AGS trigger voltage higher than it needs to be. This would cause early generator starting.

Yes, there is likely 6 4D batteries and if they are in the bay in front of the engine yes they are a PITA to replaced.

5. A previous owner swapped out the TVs and appears to have abandoned the techlink monitoring at the front drop down TV and the dash. The dash monitor was replaced with a Kenwood system that has the backup camera, but didn't attempt to hook up the techlink on another video source. So a little fiddling around with that to make it whole. They must have an uncapped coax or some cable around the a power supply because I am getting a lot of interference in the bedroom view of techlink screens. So I've got to track that down to get a clean picture.

Reply: Many abandon Crestron control of new TVs because of the cost of reprogramming the Crestron system.

Does over the air tuning work? From the factory it would have had a remote tuner that in 01 was probably not capable of ATSC (digital) tuning.

The TeckLink video distribution amp is likely under the bed. The TechLink video switch for the dash should be in the dash near the radio.

Joe Camper will likely respond. You should have him visit you and go through the chassis. There's no one better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by truk4u

Terry,

You likely have (6) 4DL batteries, contact me for a great price on Lifeline Batteries. I can have you batteries in a couple days.

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Yeah, there are (6) LIFELINE GPL-4DL AGM batteries. Round circle sticker says DN ... so is that April 2014?

Barring running electric heat/water heater, how long is typical for the coach to run on the batteries before needing to recharge?

I think I saw the trigger voltage at 22.1 so that does seem a little bit high before needing the generator.

My coach didn't have the little screen Crestron system. The over-the-air does work because they installed an AB switch and a digital antenna in the back closet. I haven't tried to get the HD DirecTV dish to work yet. I'm sure they didn't pull any wiring, so if I want it all, I'll likely have to rid some form of converters.

Terry, you can not power cadet heaters or electric hot water heaters from the inverters. The big load will be air conditioners. And yes, your AGS trigger voltage us set to save the batteries at the cost of more frequent generator running. Someone may have also set the run time to short to replenish the batteries. Assuming you have Trace 4024 inverters, the factory trigger voltages, which there will be 3, and factory generator run time are good settings.

Yeah, I figured they would draw too much for the inverters. I'm parked at my house and plugged into my 50 AMP service while I figure these issues out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gil_J

Terry, you can not power cadet heaters or electric hot water heaters from the inverters. The big load will be air conditioners. And yes, your AGS trigger voltage us set to save the batteries at the cost of more frequent generator running. Someone may have also set the run time to short to replenish the batteries. Assuming you have Trace 4024 inverters, the factory trigger voltages, which there will be 3, and factory generator run time are good settings.

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Wow, lots of different questions and threads. I might suggest using separate posts for each question in the future as these conversations can go on a while.
As for your battery dates, you are correct: DN is April 2014. The rule is: First letter is the month, January is A. Second letter is the year with 2008 starting with H.

I talked to Marathon about a year ago about the 'proper' trigger voltage for the generator. They told me 21.8v for 30+ seconds. Personally that just seems too low to me and Lifeline (Battery Manufacturer emphasizes to avoid draining unnecessarily, it's just not healthy for the batteries. I've wanted to increase mine, but frankly I'm plugged in all the time so I don't care.
I do have 6 brand new GPL-4DL batteries and can run for a long time without generator. YMMV if you wanna run A/C, heat, etc. Just don't do it on batteries. But before I replaced them last fall, i couldn't run 30 minutes on batteries with everything off. ugh. Be aware those batteries are very heavy. Marathon wanted only $400 more than it was going to cost me to do it myself. So I let Marathon (Coburg OR) do the swap. For me, that was worth it. This isn't like replacing your car batteries given they weigh 130lbs each.

If your step slide is leaking in the retracted position extend it out and then from underneath take the nut in the washer off of it that holes it on the bracket that attaches to the floor itself. pull it back then take the other nut and washer off so that you just have a naked Ram with threads on the end of it then slip a very small o-ring that is snug and a flat washer that fits perfectly tight to the diameter of the ram. Put the O-ring on there put the washer on there I believe it's a metric washer is the one that's going to fit perfect unless they've changed the Rams. Then put it all back together the way it was and when the step retracts the flat washer squeezes the o ring sealing the leak. A perfect tight flat washer is vital or it will cut Into the o ring after a few cycles.

Joe,

21.8V for 30 seconds is not too low. The 30 second timer would only be affected by a fairly heavily loaded battery. That voltage must not rise above that for the full 30 seconds. A better AGS trigger would be based on state of charge. SoC takes the varying load affected voltage out of the equation.

You might be surprised what the resting voltage is on a battery drawn down to this voltage due to a heavy load.

The mystery about why my Cruisair isn't switching to aux heat is because apparently the prior owner yanked the module out. I don't know if it failed and removed or relocated to another bus or whatever, but I have to get a replacement. Perhaps it will all work then. The coach is like a box of chocolates ....


Attachment 16296

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TerryCurtis

I've had several RVs in the past, included diesel pushers and finally decided to made the move to bus.

Not being made of money caused me to have a budget, therefore setting the age window fairly strict. After much fit/finish research online and in person, I decided on which converter I was going to buy. After much looking and having a particular floor plan in mind, I finally found the coach.

It was 800 miles away. I flew down to look at for nearly a day. Totally insufficient, especially when you don't have any idea what you are looking for aside from my isn't this pretty. As recommended elsewhere, I should have paid some qualified dude to check over the coach first. Being much more informed may/may not have changed my decision, but would at least have been informed...which is always good.

I asked the seller, a prominent consignor, a bunch of questions in silly hopes I'd get honest answers rather than typical used-car salesmenship. I showed up for the final walkthru/purchase and a few issues still raised my eyebrows, but on the whole I wanted the coach, so I closed the deal. Now, don't get me wrong, the coach is not a nightmare and being a 2001 I fully expected to have a few things to resolve.

So, I have a few questions about the things I need to resolve. I've look and haven't found exactly my issues already posted so here it goes.

1. The coach has 3 Cruisairs. The galley unit seems to cool just fine, however it doesn't activate the aux heat. The control is set using the double-tab and the heat indicator blinks and when the temperature is reached, the heat indicator lights but I don't hear any relay and neither the Wabesto heat nor cadet will run. Breakers are good. The 12V and 110V heat are on in the closet as the other two units work fine. I swapped control panels with another unit with no difference. If I activate the manual mode on the techlink module under the sink for the galley heat, the Wabesto fan will run. So it seems like the there is no relay telling the techlink to charge the Wabesto relay. Where should I look next? Is there something on the Cruisair unit itself that could be checked/reset? If I have both the 110V heat and 12V heat buttons on, is both the Wabesto AND cadet heat supposed to run at the same time?

2. When buying the coach, the step cover would not operator properly. They replaced the piston that extends the cover. But, I think it now has an air leak. If I leave the step cover retracted, I can hear the air leak. If the step cover is extended, I don't hear any air. Haven't tried to get to the bottom of it, but it does tend to drain the aux air tank fairly quick. Speaking of aux air tank ... can one of you confirm my understanding: Front and Rear air tanks are for the break system. The Aux is used for the pocket door, step, and ride height/leveling. Do I have that right?

3. I think I have a curbside rear air leak of some sort, unless somehow it is related to the step cover causing the aux air tank to drain. I am leaving the step cover extended overnight to see if the coach leans over overnight. It has with the step cover retracted. As I said, could be totally unrelated as I thought the air bags shouldn't let air back out once in unless the bag itself is leaking or the valve is leaking/defective.

4. I'm fairly sure the 6 4D batteries need replacing. I can only be without power for about 2 to 4 hours before the generator is started. Where is the best place/price to get them replaced. Those suckers are a bit expensive and look to be a little bit of PITA to change out.

5. A previous owner swapped out the TVs and appears to have abandoned the techlink monitoring at the front drop down TV and the dash. The dash monitor was replaced with a Kenwood system that has the backup camera, but didn't attempt to hook up the techlink on another video source. So a little fiddling around with that to make it whole. They must have an uncapped coax or some cable around the a power supply because I am getting a lot of interference in the bedroom view of techlink screens. So I've got to track that down to get a clean picture.

I'm sure there is more I'm missing, and have yet to find. Even with these issues, I'm happy to join the ranks of Prevost ownership. It is much like the large boats I've had in the past...another money pit. But like the boats, I plan to enjoy the heck out of it and make it better than I got it. These are not issues, they are opportunities.

Anyway, if you have wisdom or insights on my current list of ... opportunities, please forward them along.

- Terry

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With a replacement aux control box installed, the cadet and Wabesto heat now work. Unfortunately, in opening the 20 inch flexible suction line has a hole in it and I've lost all of the R22. So I've got to find a source for the replacement hose and get it recharged for the AC/heat pump to work. Sigh.

Attachment 16328

R-22 should not be too hard to find. It seems it was being bought up in such large supplies that the price isn't even totally crazy.

Glad to hear it was as simple as the controller.

Tom, are you able to provide a quote for 6 batteries (presumably from the same batch)?
Is this really something I should be doing myself or have them shipped to a qualified installer?
Is there a list of favorite/trusted folks that install them?
Are there gotchyas in doing it with all the electronics going on in a Marathon so it doesn't die ;-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by truk4u

Terry,

You likely have (6) 4DL batteries, contact me for a great price on Lifeline Batteries. I can have you batteries in a couple days.

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I found that the price of the raw batteries, compared to the price of having someone else install them was worth letting someone else deal with it.
They are very heavy and easy to melt a socket set or end wrench by touching the wrong thing. I have a few melted tools to show for it.
Can you do it yourself? Sure. But it wasn't worth the $400 difference to me.

As for the Marathon, you'll have to power down everything.

Terry,

Your price for 4DL’s would be 548.00 each plus shipping. Lifeline Battery inventories are at an all time low, some sizes not available for 2 -3 weeks. 4DL’s were still in stock yesterday, but at a low level, so don’t wait long if you want to order. Contact me here: Lifeline

Marathon did not do a great job of wiring or mounting the house batteries in most models. Yours may well be in the small bay behind the tag. If so, they are best wired as they are each installed. It's best done with 2 people for the angle mounted batteries. Marathon for some odd reason must not understand the value of bussbars. Instead they stack a lot of cables on one battery terminal. I'd change that.

If your batteries are on the driver's side, they are easily changed.

Gil, that's exactly how these are mounted, behind the tag, angled, a spiderweb of wiring with very little clearance. I am extremely hesitant to do it myself. It may well be a valuable insurance policy to pay Marathon to do it, however it will be costly...but maybe less costly than me frying the coach electronics.

Marathon-Coburg charged me $4k for the whole job. That's a $600 install charge. Worth it to me. YMMV.

For my H, there's a metal bar across the top of the batteries that holds plastic blocks that push down on the batteries to hold them in place. The weld points that hold that bar in place had broken and Marathon fixed that as well as part of my $4k, no extra.

Marathon in Dallas wants $4800 now for the batteries and installation...seems a little high...sigh.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TerryCurtis

Marathon in Dallas wants $4800 now for the batteries and installation...seems a little high...sigh.

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Ask them what they charge if you supply the batteries. The batteries should be less than $4K delivered. My grandson and I did this in a similar configuration. It's a PITA, but for $800, I'd be smiling.

My price delivered to the Dallas area would be 3500.00, no tax. Is that not a good price for you Terry?

Tom, it is good price. I've got the question in to Marathon about only doing the labor. How long does would it take to have the batteries arrive at Marathon once I've paid for them? I'm looking to get the swap done the week of the 21st.

2 - 3 days transit time, please contact me by text, phone or email. tom@trans-specialists.net or 770-634-7530.

Joe, how long ago did Marathon-Coburg do the work? Marathon in Dallas wants $1500 for labor. Makes no sense to me.

My batteries were replaced Sept 2019.

Thanks Joe. Coburg replied they would do it for $4K total or $600 labor. $1500 vs $600 labor seems like a big difference. Maybe my Christmas will be on the left coast.

Tom, I am going to have Marathon at Coburg do the entire thing for the $4K. I was going to go somewhere anyway on my Christmas break, now I have purpose.
As an aside, Silverleaf Coach in Arizona was very close to the same $4K but can't do the work until into next year.

Tom, If you do end up in Coburg, be aware you can stay in their parking lot forever, even if you're not having work done. Then take a short drive to the coast and stay at Pacific Shores in Newport, OR. Class-A buses only, great place right on the bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Yaquina lighthouse. With Covid, might be limited to 30 day stays. That might be a problem in many places, certainly is true right now in Calif.
I know that area very well, happy to be a reference for knowledge of the area. PM me for additional info.